Read Pool School, but where do I even start!?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Either I'm going crazy or something's wrong...
I'm following the TF-100 instructions to a "T" for each test.

FC 0.0 (still didn't turn pink after heaping scoop of R-0870 powder)
CC n/a
pH 8.2
TA 80
CH 300 (11 drops turned it blue, but then back to pink...12th drop kept it blue)
CYA 20 (can still faintly see the black dot)
Water Temp 92

That is after I added 2lbs CYA granuals in nylon sock in skimmer (which finished disolving last night) and 40 oz of 10% liquid chlorine last night...
CYA doesn't seem to be increasing, and FC won't budge!
 
Test your water 15 minutes after you add liquid chlorine. See what you get.

You have your pump running?

I find it takes a few days after stabilizer is added for it to properly show in the CYA test.
 
  • Like
Reactions: trophft
ajw22 said:
Test your water 15 minutes after you add liquid chlorine. See what you get.

You have your pump running?

I find it takes a few days after stabilizer is added for it to properly show in the CYA test.
Click to expand...
I've had pump running full throttle 24/7 per PB instructions, but I'm about to dial it back to 10 hrs a day (per WetEdge guidance for day 7 and beyond).

My pressure is creeping up so I'll be cleaning the cartridge filters this weekend as well.

Water is still crystal clear though, so that's a plus!
 
40 oz of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your FC by 2.1 ppm. That is not enough to last 24 hours. Add twice as much, 80 oz, and see what you have in 12 to 24 hours.

It would be helpful for you to log all your tests and chemical additions in PoolMath
 
i did 40 more oz. (plus the 40 oz from last night) so 80 oz in the last 24 hours. Finally got a solid reading on the TF-100 (and Taylor 3-way finally turned yellow). Now I can just check FC every day and adjust as needed (along with pH, TA, etc.)?
 
trophft said:
Now I can just check FC every day and adjust as needed (along with pH, TA, etc.)?
Click to expand...
Correct. Testing the FC (and usually pH) is basically a daily task. Quick and easy. The others like CYA, CH, TA, etc, shouldn't change that often or fast unless you change a lot of water or do something unusual to the water with odd chemical - which there should be no need to do. FC and pH should be your primary focus each day. Get in a good, steady routine with those tests so you know your pool. Try to test about the same time each day so you can anticipate how much chlorine your pool eats each day. In the summer, my 17.8K pool would eat about 1/2 gallon of chlorine each day. I expected it. As we approach fall/winter, the FC usage will slow down, so you can expect that as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gregsfc and trophft
Texas Splash said:
Correct. Testing the FC (and usually pH) is basically a daily task. Quick and easy. The others like CYA, CH, TA, etc, shouldn't change that often or fast unless you change a lot of water or do something unusual to the water with odd chemical - which there should be no need to do. FC and pH should be your primary focus each day. Get in a good, steady routine with those tests so you know your pool. Try to test about the same time each day so you can anticipate how much chlorine your pool eats each day. In the summer, my 17.8K pool would eat about 1/2 gallon of chlorine each day. I expected it. As we approach fall/winter, the FC usage will slow down, so you can expect that as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks TX Splash! And just to be clear, as winter approaches I should probably just leave the Nature Fusion tab feeder hooked up and wait until Spring to swap it out with my SWG?
 
trophft said:
as winter approaches I should probably just leave the Nature Fusion tab feeder hooked up and wait until Spring to swap it out with my SWG?
Click to expand...
I don't recall, but if the Fusion feeder is empty it should be fine where it is - not adding any product. You'll continue to add chlorine manually each day or two. In the winter, I only have to add chlorine maybe every 3-4 days when the water temp is close to 60. Then you can install the SWG next spring.
 
  • Like
Reactions: trophft

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Texas Splash said:
I don't recall, but if the Fusion feeder is empty it should be fine where it is - not adding any product. You'll continue to add chlorine manually each day or two. In the winter, I only have to add chlorine maybe every 3-4 days when the water temp is close to 60. Then you can install the SWG next spring.
Click to expand...
Have I mentioned how awesome the TFP community is and how grateful I am???
Thanks!
 
Texas Splash said:
I don't recall, but if the Fusion feeder is empty it should be fine where it is - not adding any product. You'll continue to add chlorine manually each day or two. In the winter, I only have to add chlorine maybe every 3-4 days when the water temp is close to 60. Then you can install the SWG next spring.
Click to expand...
I removed the minerals and replaced the empty cartridge, and the tablet cartridge is empty as well, so should be good. Loved the look on the PB's face when he came to start up the equip and walk me through everything...he was like "that's wierd...there's usually mineral balls in this cartridge. We'll get you another one asap." I said, no thanks.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Texas Splash
It is still possible to find regular, plain, store brand or Clorox brand bleach in most areas. DG brand at Dollar General Store still has it at some stores in my area in the larger 121 ounce jugs but now at a higher 7.5% concentration. The smaller jugs like you pictured are available at every store that I've been in. Harder to find the larger jugs (almost one gallon) this year. I've even seen the Great Value brand, though they are in smaller jugs this year, but now at 7.5%; but it should be listed as sodium hypochlorite 7.5% and other ingredients, and should have no other active ingredients listed. The jug label coloring should be the regular colors of their other bleaches; similar to the "easy pour" but don't get "easy pour"; it should not that red coloring on the packaging like the one you showed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: trophft
gregsfc said:
It is still possible to find regular, plain, store brand or Clorox brand bleach in most areas. DG brand at Dollar General Store still has it at some stores in my area in the larger 121 ounce jugs but now at a higher 7.5% concentration. The smaller jugs like you pictured are available at every store that I've been in. Harder to find the larger jugs (almost one gallon) this year. I've even seen the Great Value brand, though they are in smaller jugs this year, but now at 7.5%; but it should be listed as sodium hypochlorite 7.5% and other ingredients, and should have no other active ingredients listed. The jug label coloring should be the regular colors of their other bleaches; similar to the "easy pour" but don't get "easy pour"; it should not that red coloring on the packaging like the one you showed.
Click to expand...
greg, i did score those cases (3 gallons) of KemTek 10% from my local Lowes. Heading back to get more today!
 
  • Like
Reactions: gregsfc
trophft said:
Just got home. Full sun, all day:
Water Temp 90
FC 1.5
Click to expand...

So your pool uses 2 ppm of FC a day this time of year. About average. It explains why you would add 2 ppm and find it at 0.

Add a bit more chlorine today so you can end up with 2 ppm, not 1.5 ppm of FC at the end of the day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: trophft
ajw22 said:
So your pool uses 2 ppm of FC a day this time of year. About average. It explains why you would add 2 ppm and find it at 0.

Add a bit more chlorine today so you can end up with 2 ppm, not 1.5 ppm of FC at the end of the day.
Click to expand...
And that was with no swimmers.
Saturday we swam all day...tested this morning and was 0.5 (1 drop turned it from pink to clear).
Added 67 oz of 10% this morning before my AM brushing (that should bring it up to 4ppm).
pH is rose to 8.2 but it just started raining and forecast is rain all week (Tropical Storm Beta), so I'll just keep an eye on it before adding the recommended 2 cups 5 oz of Muriatic...would that be alright?
 
Add the MA to lower your pH anytime it is 8 or above. No reason to wait.
 
  • Like
Reactions: trophft

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply