I convinced myself I'm going with an SWG this season....and at the tail end of the last season, I realized my heater had been plumbed in backward as well! Not the end of the world, but...there is limited space already and I'm thinking a replumb would make room for all the new stuff and fix my reversed heating issue. Reversed plumbing isn't the end of the world, just means I can't set an accurate temperature for the heater (the handful times we use it) we just crank it and let it go. Bye bye propane 
I've always thought the previous plumbing was a little clunky...and might have to do some shenanigans to straighten it out but wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions to make it play a little nicer, possibly reduce and unnecessary kinks/etc. Admittedly replumbing the heater correctly makes it silly routing...but if I'm in there tearing it up for the SWG, Anode, Check Valve, etc - I should probably just get it right....right?!
Yellow arrows indicate what the header flow should be - red arrows are current flow.

Should I even worry about the diverter valves and just got straight from the filter to the inlet?? We do only use the heater a dozen or so times a year, so while it's not in use we diver valves and decrease pressure on the system which I think is probably good.
Or is it as simple as creating an "X" of the pipes (verticle ones) just at the header for the heater and adding in extensions/cutting out the 2-inch pipe there to make it work? I'm thinking that is my best spot to put my SWG anyway now - so it shouldn't be too much work. Otherwise, I think there is a wacky loop at the return I think I'd have to make to have it work right!
I've always thought the previous plumbing was a little clunky...and might have to do some shenanigans to straighten it out but wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions to make it play a little nicer, possibly reduce and unnecessary kinks/etc. Admittedly replumbing the heater correctly makes it silly routing...but if I'm in there tearing it up for the SWG, Anode, Check Valve, etc - I should probably just get it right....right?!
Yellow arrows indicate what the header flow should be - red arrows are current flow.

Should I even worry about the diverter valves and just got straight from the filter to the inlet?? We do only use the heater a dozen or so times a year, so while it's not in use we diver valves and decrease pressure on the system which I think is probably good.
Or is it as simple as creating an "X" of the pipes (verticle ones) just at the header for the heater and adding in extensions/cutting out the 2-inch pipe there to make it work? I'm thinking that is my best spot to put my SWG anyway now - so it shouldn't be too much work. Otherwise, I think there is a wacky loop at the return I think I'd have to make to have it work right!