… I had also raised the chlorine to 8ppm since I couldn’t run my equipment but I did have to run it 1 month in for American Leak Detection to locate the leak. I believe that is when the highly chlorinated water went into the heater. I’ve learned my lesson about draining the equipment any time I’m waiting for a repair! Question for you, if my equipment is not bonded, does that mean someone could be electrocuted in the pool? This pool has been used for over 40 years so I’m starting to wonder if my understanding of the term “bonded” is incorrect as there have been no reports of electrocution.
Right, but from what I’m told, high chlorine has very low PH, so if 8 to 10ppm of CL were sitting stagnant in my heater, wouldn’t that do the same thing? I tested Ph weekly throughout the 2 months my equipment was off and only needed to make miner changes in my pool to keep that balance but since I didn’t run the equipment that means highly chlorinated water, which someone said has a PH of 2, would seem to be the issue. If it’s not, then I’m not sure what it was since I am very on top of my chemical balancing.
The CV is for that purpose and won't or shouldn't let the migration happen.
The check valve that comes with that chlorinator that goes on the bottom is really cheap. It half works when they are new. Change it out. The black 90 elbo that threads into the bottom of the chlorinator is the check valve. Try a straight line check valve on the yellow or black line. Also replumb that black line to the other side of the yellow line going back to the pool. You are pumping chlorine from that chlorinator directly into that heater some how.
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