Random Winterizing Questions for a Newbie

[Yarzy]

Hi everyone,

I am a new pool owner (pool was installed last year) and last year, the pool builder closed the pool for me. This year, I want to take this on. I am doing as much research as possible, following the TFP closing guide, etc. and I had a few questions that I am hoping you can answer for me.

1. When dropping the water down past the return lines, is 4 inches below the return lines correct? When I am dumping the water, once the water drops below the skimmers, it will not be able to continue to pull the water into the pump from them. Because of this, do I just switch to use the bottom drain only when draining the water out?
2. When blowing out the lines, what should my diverter values be set to? Also, is it better to blow the lines from the skimmer intake to the returns? I am not sure which direction would be better. As I understand it, the air would go from the skimmer (or return, based on the question previously) to the other end, but it would hit the diverter values (then pump, etc) prior, correct?
3. Even with the lines blown out, I should still add antifreeze, correct? I am going to be using the rubber plugs the PB used last year. 2 at the skimmers and 3 at the return. Do I need any other plugs? I plan to purchase a "Cyclone" blower for the lines.
4. Do I fill the skimmers with antifreeze as well? (Pool/RV antifreeze only)
5. The PB left what looked like an empty water bottle in my skimmer last year...do I need a Gizzmo for each skimmer or is there something better?
6. I was going to disconnect the unions at my SWG and the pump just to let it expand if needed. Is that correct or do I need to plug/add antifreeze there as well? Will also drain, open, and clean my DE filter. Anything needed for the heater? Based on the manual, looks like I pull the drain plug and shut off all the gas, etc. Should I store the pump and SWC indoors? If not, do I cover them not to let rain in the ports where it could freeze?
7. Is PolyQuat the only thing I need? I ask because my PB left what looks like almost full bottles of EZ-Clor Algaecide Plus and Metal Magnet floating in the skimmers. I am not sure why they were full unless they left them there in hopes to be used when opening up the pool.
8. What do I set as the "final stage" for my filter multivalve? I heard to perhaps leave the between two settings?

Ugh, I feel like I am almost ready but I am scared I will mess something up. The idea is very similar to winterizing our RV, but I just get worried with the equipment, etc.

Thanks so much!!!!

 

[Newdude]

I am a new pool owner.

C'mon Yarz. With all we've been through? You're well known. Welcome back.

1. When dropping the water down past the return lines, is 4 inches below the return lines correct? When I am dumping the water, once the water drops below the skimmers, it will not be able to continue to pull the water into the pump from them. Because of this, do I just switch to use the bottom drain only when draining the water out?

Correct. Watch the pump once sucking from the main drains only, to ensure the pump keeps prime and doesn't run dry. If the equipment pad is pretty close to the pool height, it will handle the height difference from draining. But. No two yards/pumps are the same so babysit it.

Or. Use blow through bungee plugs to not have drain below the returns. You could also use duck plugs but I found them to cheaply made.

2. When blowing out the lines, what should my diverter values be set to?

They will need to change to isolate and blow out each leg, then close to air lock them.

Also, is it better to blow the lines from the skimmer intake to the returns?

I took my equipment apart and blew back towards the pool. But you can also blow from the skimmer all the way through the system with a strong enough compressor / cyclone.

3. Even with the lines blown out, I should still add antifreeze, correct?

It's $3.98 a gallon for RV antifreeze at Lowes and it's dirt cheap insurance to add a half gallon per pipe. Don't fill the main drain leg, it will just ooze into the pool. It won't hurt anything but it won't help either.

am going to be using the rubber plugs the PB used last year. 2 at the skimmers and 3 at the return. Do I need any other plugs? I plan to purchase a "Cyclone" blower for the lines.

I like these at the returns

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Aqua-EZ-Threaded-Winterizing-Plug/3024182

And gizmos in the skimmer

4. Do I fill the skimmers with antifreeze as well? (Pool/RV antifreeze only)

Gizmos for plugs and fill the rest of it, including the mouth with a cut up pool noodle. $1 insurance per skimmer.

5. The PB left what looked like an empty water bottle in my skimmer last year...do I need a Gizzmo for each skimmer or is there something better?

Gizmos are $10 (?) Coke bottles are $2.79 plus thr plugs if you're on a budget.

6. I was going to disconnect the unions at my SWG and the pump just to let it expand if needed. Is that correct or do I need to plug/add antifreeze there as well? Will also drain, open, and clean my DE

The cyclone should clear any water from the above ground plumbing. You can disassemble anything you can get to to verify afterwards. I take my equipment inside and use the rubber plugs on the pipes at the pad. If you want to leave them outside, cover them with garbage bags, mini tarps, or whatever you wanna MacGyver.

Is PolyQuat the only thing I need?

IMO full SLAM is better than half SLAM and polyquat. They will fight and the end result is half polyquat and 1/4 SLAM (?). Well. We don't know exactly how much polyquat is lost but it is lost, and so is FC so they are counter productive.

So go half SLAM and PQ, or full SLAM and no PQ. You don't need anything else chemical wise if you closed balanced.

8. What do I set as the "final stage" for my filter multivalve? I heard to perhaps leave the between two settings?

I have no idea as a cartridge guy. It probably doesn't matter with empty pipes. Hang tight.

Ugh, I feel like I am almost ready but I am scared I will mess something up

You got this.

 

[Yarzy]

C'mon Yarz. With all we've been through? You're well known. Welcome back.

Hey NewDude!!!! Man, the amount help you have provided is CRAZY! Thanks again for all your help, drinks on me!

Correct. Watch the pump once sucking from the main drains only, to ensure the pump keeps prime and doesn't run dry. If the equipment pad is pretty close to the pool height, it will handle the height difference from draining. But. No two yards/pumps are the same so babysit it.

Or. Use blow through bungee plugs to not have drain below the returns. You could also use duck plugs but I found them to cheaply made.

My pad is pretty level with the pool, so hopefully I should be good. Would it make sense just to pull 100% from the main/bottom drain to start? That way I dont need to worry about it? Also, what are bungee plugs?

They will need to change to isolate and blow out each leg, then close to air lock them.

Makes sense...did not really think that question through all the way.

I took my equipment apart and blew back towards the pool. But you can also blow from the skimmer all the way through the system with a strong enough compressor / cyclone.

If I go from skimmer to return, the air will "hit" the pump, right? If it was closed at the value, it would not make it to the return is my thought. If that is the case, any issue with blowing the water/air towards the pump so it can come out the returns? I guess I would need to bypass my filter so I am not blowing air into that as well. Am I over thinking this?

It's $3.98 a gallon for RV antifreeze at Lowes and it's dirt cheap insurance to add a half gallon per pipe. Don't fill the main drain leg, it will just ooze into the pool. It won't hurt anything but it won't help either.

Yup, if anything, I will fill more than less.

I like these at the returns

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Aqua-EZ-Threaded-Winterizing-Plug/3024182

And gizmos in the skimmer



Gizmos for plugs and fill the rest of it, including the mouth with a cut up pool noodle. $1 insurance per skimmer.

Gizmos are $10 (?) Coke bottles are $2.79 plus thr plugs if you're on a budget.

So you think I should use Gizmos vs the rubber plugs the PB left? I think they blew out the lines, added the antifreeze, and then capped them with the rubber stoppers. I ask because if you look at the pool closing instructions on TFT, that person did not like using Gizmos and liked a pool noodle and capping it. Any downside either way?

The cyclone should clear any water from the above ground plumbing. You can disassemble anything you can get to to verify afterwards. I take my equipment inside and use the rubber plugs on the pipes at the pad. If you want to leave them outside, cover them with garbage bags, mini tarps, or whatever you wanna MacGyver.

If I do remove and cap the ends that connect to the SWG/pump, do I put antifreeze in there as well? If so, how much am I adding?

IMO full SLAM is better than half SLAM and polyquat. They will fight and the end result is half polyquat and 1/4 SLAM (?). Well. We don't know exactly how much polyquat is lost but it is lost, and so is FC so they are counter productive.

So go half SLAM and PQ, or full SLAM and no PQ. You don't need anything else chemical wise if you closed balanced.

Gotcha, so basically SLAM it, then close it. I have never done the SLAM process so I will read up on that.

I have no idea as a cartridge guy. It probably doesn't matter with empty pipes. Hang tight.

All good, thanks!

You got this.

With your help no less! Thanks again!

 

[Newdude]

My pad is pretty level with the pool, so hopefully I should be good. Would it make sense just to pull 100% from the main/bottom drain to start? That way I dont need to worry about it?

Sure. You don't need to pull from the skimmers so why bother waiting to switch over. But. Pay attention to the pump. It could lose prime for a couple of reasons besides gravity. An undiscovered suction leak for example, exasperated by using the drains only. As long as the water is flowing through the pump, it's good.

Also, what are bungee plugs?

Screw them into the returns, blow air through them to clear the pipes and they seal themselves when you turn the air off. This way you don't have to drain so low to blow the pipes.

Amazon.com : Aqua Group Aqua Products Plug for 1.5 Inch Lines BP15 : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com : Aqua Group Aqua Products Plug for 1.5 Inch Lines BP15 : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

But with a permeable cover, if you don't drain so low, you'll be full again that much quicker. You can still use them and drain as planned. Or the screw in type listed above. 3rd choice is the rubber plugs that the ice block can pull out of the wall.

If I go from skimmer to return, the air will "hit" the pump, right? If it was closed at the value, it would not make it to the return is my thought. If that is the case, any issue with blowing the water/air towards the pump so it can come out the returns? I guess I would need to bypass my filter so I am not blowing air into that as well. Am I over thinking this?

I'm not sure if the pump impeller likes to spin backwards under pressure. And great point about the filter !!! Any filter plumbed in reverse will likely suffer damage. So just blow the normal direction of flow.

So you think I should use Gizmos vs the rubber plugs the PB left?

They are cheap and last years and years. My old ones were 8+ winters old going strong when we moved. And like the bungee plugs, I like the secure, screwed in connection.

If I do remove and cap the ends that connect to the SWG/pump, do I put antifreeze in there as well? If so, how much am I adding?

Got a pad pic ? If it's above ground any drops left behind will find their way to the low spot below ground. My old setup was buried between equipment so you could walk between all the pieces, so I had several short underground runs. They all got a couple 'glugs' of the antifreeze.

Gotcha, so basically SLAM it, then close it. I have never done the SLAM process so I will read up on that.

You only need the SLAM FC part. 40% of your CYA. 28 FC if your CYA is 70. The rest if the water is balanced already and you have no algae to fight. Read the SLAM article for fun and general knowledge, but you just need the FC.

With your help no less! Thanks again!

Sometimes I'm busy. But I got a small Army of great folks next to me to step in anytime. One way or another, we always got you.

 

[Yarzy]

Sure. You don't need to pull from the skimmers so why bother waiting to switch over. But. Pay attention to the pump. It could lose prime for a couple of reasons besides gravity. An undiscovered suction leak for example, exasperated by using the drains only. As long as the water is flowing through the pump, it's good.

Screw them into the returns, blow air through them to clear the pipes and they seal themselves when you turn the air off. This way you don't have to drain so low to blow the pipes.

Does that mean I don't to drain under the returns but just enough to get the water out of the skimmer?

Amazon.com : Aqua Group Aqua Products Plug for 1.5 Inch Lines BP15 : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com : Aqua Group Aqua Products Plug for 1.5 Inch Lines BP15 : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Just ordered them, thanks!

But with a permeable cover, if you don't drain so low, you'll be full again that much quicker. You can still use them and drain as planned. Or the screw in type listed above. 3rd choice is the rubber plugs that the ice block can pull out of the wall.

I have a solid cover but I guess water still can get in there and fill up. I think I will drain below just to be on the safe side.

I'm not sure if the pump impeller likes to spin backwards under pressure. And great point about the filter !!! Any filter plumbed in reverse will likely suffer damage. So just blow the normal direction of flow.

Sorry, but I am still not getting this. As it stands now, the water goes from the skimmer (or drain), to the pump, to the filter, through the heater, through the SWC, then to the return. If I blow out the lines from the skimmer, isnt the air going to travel through all of that in order to come out the return? Or, do I disconnect the pump and the water would be blown from the skimmer and come out the intake side of the pump? Same idea with removing the SWC and blowing the air from the return side of the SWC to the return jet. Hope this makes sense after looking at the pad pic.

They are cheap and last years and years. My old ones were 8+ winters old going strong when we moved. And like the bungee plugs, I like the secure, screwed in connection.

Ordered

Got a pad pic ? If it's above ground any drops left behind will find their way to the low spot below ground. My old setup was buried between equipment so you could walk between all the pieces, so I had several short underground runs. They all got a couple 'glugs' of the antifreeze.

Pic attached, let me know if this helps and/or you need another picture.

You only need the SLAM FC part. 40% of your CYA. 28 FC if your CYA is 70. The rest if the water is balanced already and you have no algae to fight. Read the SLAM article for fun and general knowledge, but you just need the FC.

Will do, thanks!

Sometimes I'm busy. But I got a small Army of great folks next to me to step in anytime. One way or another, we always got you.

You and everyone here are amazing! Thanks again!

 

[Newdude]

that mean I don't to drain under the returns but just enough to get the water out of the skimmer?

If you choose that option, then yes.

I have a solid cover but I guess water still can get in there and fill up. I think I will drain below just to be on the safe side.

If water passes through it, it's mesh. And you'll collect rainwater in the pool and need to drain occasionally. If it's a solid cover, you pump the top, not below. One way or another, you are draining. There is no free lunch. Except about 3 ft of precipitation for the off season in the northeast.

As it stands now, the water goes from the skimmer (or drain), to the pump, to the filter, through the heater, through the SWC, then to the return. If I blow out the lines from the skimmer, isnt the air going to travel through all of that in order to come out the return?

Correct. And with a cyclone it has the oomph to do it all one shot.

Or, do I disconnect the pump and the water would be blown from the skimmer and come out the intake side of the pump? Same idea with removing the SWC and blowing the air from the return side of the SWC to the return jet.

Also an option and closer to what I do. I will disconnect at the circles and then blow each leg back towards the pool.

**** Upon further inspection, you'll want to do it this way also *****

so you can blow the main drain, then when you turn the valve to the skimmer side, it will air lock the main drain.

Pics say 1000 words. THANKS.

do this.



The filter and heater have drains and don't need blowing out if you do it this way. The leftover above ground pipes I disconnect and empty by hand. No need for antifreeze above ground once they are empty.

 

[Yarzy]

If you choose that option, then yes.

If water passes through it, it's mesh. And you'll collect rainwater in the pool and need to drain occasionally. If it's a solid cover, you pump the top, not below. One way or another, you are draining. There is no free lunch. Except about 3 ft of precipitation for the off season in the northeast.

Yup, I have a solid cover with a pump on the surface for rain water, snow, etc.

Correct. And with a cyclone it has the oomph to do it all one shot.

Also an option and closer to what I do. I will disconnect at the circles and then blow each leg back towards the pool.

**** Upon further inspection, you'll want to do it this way also *****

so you can blow the main drain, then when you turn the valve to the skimmer side, it will air lock the main drain.

Ok, I think I ALMOST have it. Gonna disconnect where you circled in red and blow towards the pool. I will do each skimmer, one at a time, adjusting the values to isolate each skimmer. Same idea with the returns/cleaner port. The only question I have now is about the main/floor drain. What is the process there? Same process until air bubbles come out? If so, do I need to quickly close the value after (but during) blowing the air so it does not quickly fill up with water? I am guessing I dump a bunch of antifreeze in all the lines, right? Do I fill the lines up with antifreeze until they are full?

Pics say 1000 words. THANKS.

do this.
View attachment 453193


The filter and heater have drains and don't need blowing out if you do it this way. The leftover above ground pipes I disconnect and empty by hand. No need for antifreeze above ground once they are empty.

I plan do this exact thing. Thanks again!

 

[Newdude]

Yup, I have a solid cover with a pump on the surface for rain water, snow, etc.

OK so no need to drain and the blow through plugs will accomplish that. You can also get blow through gizmos and leave the water level right where it is. With the standard gizmos or rubber plugs you have to drain below the skimmer. Either works. Up to you.

Gonna disconnect where you circled in red and blow towards the pool. I will do each skimmer, one at a time, adjusting the values to isolate each skimmer. Same idea with the returns/cleaner port.

Awesome !!!

The only question I have now is about the main/floor drain. What is the process there? Same process until air bubbles come out?

Do the main drains first until bubbles come out. Lock that leg closed with the cyclone blowing and the air will divert to the skimmers and they will look like old faithful shooting water into the sky.

Turn off the cyclone. Plug the skimmers (or add the cap to the blow through gizmo). Move to the return side and blow there.

Reinstall the equipment, or bring it insode and rubber plug the pipe ends.

I am guessing I dump a bunch of antifreeze in all the lines, right

Yup. Except for the main drain. You can dump it down the skimmer hole but the horizontal pipes are a bit tricky. I duct taped a funnel to a hose and would gently twist the hose until it got far enough down the pipe to not spurt back. Usually the first 90 was enough.

Then the below ground pipes get a gallon each. Do not 'fill' them, no need as the cyclone left them full of air with only a few drips. The gallon of antifreeze is already crazy overkill. But it's cheap so have at it.

 

[Yarzy]

OK so no need to drain and the blow through plugs will accomplish that. You can also get blow through gizmos and leave the water level right where it is. With the standard gizmos or rubber plugs you have to drain below the skimmer. Either works. Up to you.

I ordered both the bungee plugs and the blow through Gizzmos. I gotta tell you, I am slightly nervous using those plugs with water in the pool. I guess I can remove that fear and just drop the water below the returns though.

Awesome !!!

Do the main drains first until bubbles come out. Lock that leg closed with the cyclone blowing and the air will divert to the skimmers and they will look like old faithful shooting water into the sky.

Turn off the cyclone. Plug the skimmers (or add the cap to the blow through gizmo). Move to the return side and blow there.

Reinstall the equipment, or bring it insode and rubber plug the pipe ends.

Totally understand about this. What confuses me a little is why plug the ends? I ask because wouldn't it help to have the plugs off and let air into the lines just in case there is ice in there, that it could expand and not be sealed off? I admit I am not a pro at "ice science" though.

Yup. Except for the main drain. You can dump it down the skimmer hole but the horizontal pipes are a bit tricky. I duct taped a funnel to a hose and would gently twist the hose until it got far enough down the pipe to not spurt back. Usually the first 90 was enough.

Is the reason you don't add it to the main drain is because of the difficulty getting antifreeze to the main drain line? In looking at my pictures, I guess you would have to fish a hose past two diverter valves in order to reach it. If so, it is just blow it out really good and hope for the best?

Then the below ground pipes get a gallon each. Do not 'fill' them, no need as the cyclone left them full of air with only a few drips. The gallon of antifreeze is already crazy overkill. But it's cheap so have at it.

Ok, so the plan is 5 gallons total (maybe 6). 1 gallon per line (2 skimmers, 2 returns, 1 cleaner port) and then .5+ in each skimmer? Does that make sense?

When it is all said and done, what position do I leave the diverter values and filter value in? I think the filter value does have a "closed" option.

Thanks!

 

[Newdude]

What confuses me a little is why plug the ends?

Once the pipe is sealed, the ground will keep it mostly the same temperature and without daily swings, it won't sweat and condense. You'd be amazed how fast the drips can add up. You have the antifreeze down there and it's probably more overkill but HEY !!! We're all enthusiasts here. So what if we do things the right way, even for little gain.

Is the reason you don't add it to the main drain is because of the difficulty getting antifreeze to the main drain line?

Nope. It's because the pool side is open. It will all ooze out of the drain before it was needed at the high side of the pipe. So you blow bubbles out the drain and when you close the valve, it's like putting your finger over a straw and then dunking the other end. The air stays in the pipe and doesn't let any water in. In the spring when you open the valve, the deep end water will woosh up the pipe in a second.

Ok, so the plan is 5 gallons total (maybe 6). 1 gallon per line (2 skimmers, 2 returns, 1 cleaner port) and then .5+ in each skimmer? Does that make sense?

Perfect. In the spring, blow the returns and the skimmers towards the pad and the antifreeze won't get in the pool. It's OK if it does, being non toxic RV antifreeze, but it's so easy to just pump it out to the equipment pad.


*edit for valve position question. The main drain valve is closed. The rest don't matter because the pipes are sealed at the pool side and plugs at the pad for good measure. The MPV shouldn't matter as it's empty and water can't fill it no matter what, being above the pool. Not without the pump running at least.

 

[Yarzy]

Once the pipe is sealed, the ground will keep it mostly the same temperature and without daily swings, it won't sweat and condense. You'd be amazed how fast the drips can add up. You have the antifreeze down there and it's probably more overkill but HEY !!! We're all enthusiasts here. So what if we do things the right way, even for little gain.

Really good point about it not sweating/condensation. Are the standard rubber stoppers okay for the "pad pipes"? The pipes that I cap at the SWC and and pump end....

If so, any idea what size rubber plug I need? Is that size 11 perhaps?

Nope. It's because the pool side is open. It will all ooze out of the drain before it was needed at the high side of the pipe. So you blow bubbles out the drain and when you close the valve, it's like putting your finger over a straw and then dunking the other end. The air stays in the pipe and doesn't let any water in. In the spring when you open the valve, the deep end water will woosh up the pipe in a second.

THIS makes PERFECT sense! As long as that MPV does not leak air, it should not allow water in, correct? I guess if I am capping the pipe off at the pad, the value would have to fail AND the rubber cap for water to get in, right?

Perfect. In the spring, blow the returns and the skimmers towards the pad and the antifreeze won't get in the pool. It's OK if it does, being non toxic RV antifreeze, but it's so easy to just pump it out to the equipment pad.

Yup, will do. Or I still drop the water down below the returns, I will just put a bucket down there and try to catch as much as I can from the returns.

*edit for valve position question. The main drain valve is closed. The rest don't matter because the pipes are sealed at the pool side and plugs at the pad for good measure. The MPV shouldn't matter as it's empty and water can't fill it no matter what, being above the pool. Not without the pump running at least.

I think i got it! FINALLY! THANK YOU SO MUCH AS ALWAYS!
I am going to type this all out in a document so I have the steps...I may come back with a question or two but this was SO HELPFUL!

 

[Newdude]

Are the standard rubber stoppers okay for the "pad pipes"? The pipes that I cap at the SWC and and pump end....

Yeah. They're great inside the pool too, but if the ice grabs hold of them, and shifts, then they pop. That's no concern at the pad.

If so, any idea what size rubber plug I need? Is that size 11 perhaps?

If memory serves I had 11 and 12. Hardware stores have them.

As long as that MPV does not leak air, it should not allow water in, correct? I guess if I am capping the pipe off at the pad, the value would have to fail AND the rubber cap for water to get in, right?

Yup.

Or I still drop the water down below the returns, I will just put a bucket down there and try to catch as much as I can from the returns.

That works too. Like I said a couple gallons won't hurt the pool. It really REALLY won't hurt if you find a way for it to not enter the pool in the first place.

I think i got it! FINALLY! THANK YOU SO MUCH AS ALWAYS!

We got you. Anytime.

 

[Lake Placid]

Just to clarify the multiport valve should be set in a winterization setting, and if the valve doesn’t have one then set in a detent between two settings. This forces all ports open and if there was a bit of water trapped in the valve inadvertently it won’t break during a freeze.

Random thought…..I read somewhere that when water freezes, it only expands 9%….so in my mind at least knowing this I feel super secure knowing my pipes are blown down 99.9% dry with anti freeze added in where applicable for additional protection. Theoretically if I got a pipe 50% empty it should be ok to deal with the expansion of freezing water. Would I ever advocate for that? No.

 

[Newdude]

Random thought…..I read somewhere that when water freezes, it only expands 9%

It does. I remember 10%. Tomato, tahmahto, they're both close enough for government work.

It also mostly expands up, and not out, kinda mushroom-ing. That helps alot in a horizontal pipe, but may be problematic in a vertical pipe where it may be solid before its done expanding.

Just to clarify the multiport valve should be set in a winterization setting, and if the valve doesn’t have one then set in a detent between two settings.

Thanks for this. Not having one, I'll probably forget again by next year.

 

[Yarzy]

It does. I remember 10%. Tomato, tahmahto, they're both close enough for government work.

It also mostly expands up, and not out, kinda mushroom-ing. That helps alot in a horizontal pipe, but may be problematic in a vertical pipe where it may be solid before its done expanding.


Thanks for this. Not having one, I'll probably forget again by next year.

Thank you for this! I heard that as well, leaving it in between two different settings...thanks again everyone!

 

[Yarzy]

@Newdude I am getting ready to close the pool next weekend and I was just thinking about something with the main drain. Totally understand that I blow that out and during that stage, close that value so it airlocks the air in the pipe. It got me thinking if there is any "insurance" on this just in case the value is not air tight and it lets water in over time? I guessing that would be a huge problem. Any way to set my mind at ease so I know water cant get in or something else I can do? Thanks!

 

[Newdude]

It got me thinking if there is any "insurance" on this just in case the value is not air tight and it lets water in over time?

There's unfortunately no insurance. Any air leak at all would fill the pipe in seconds or minutes. The problem is that the drain end is open, so if you got antifreeze down that line from the pad, it would just seep out of the open end. See this crude drawing. You blow out the line and cap the pad side. But water will glug glug back into the drain letting the air/antifreeze out for the under the pool part, until it reaches the upwards part of the pipe. Air will stay trapped in that part and the water that's in the horizontal part doesn't matter 5 to 8 ft down (depending on the pool) well below the frost line.



And it all hinges on the valve keeping the seal. But. They tend to last years and years so hopefully yours has plenty of life left.

 

[Lake Placid]

FWIW, after I blow out my main drain, I insert an expandable winterizing plug in the suction side of the pump behind the main drain valve. In theory (at least in my head) this provides a secondary air lock in the event the valve would fail. In practicality would it actually help if the valve failed, IDK, but it helps me sleep better at night.

 

[Newdude]

I insert an expandable winterizing plug in the suction side of the pump

GREAT point !!!! And I am doing that too, unintentionally. The red circle is the drain valve which will be off, but the blue circle gets a plug once the pump is inside. With gizmos in the skimmers, it's a failsafe airlock.

NICE job LP !!!

 

[Yarzy]

Yeah, really good point, I totally forgot about the rubber plug that goes in as well. Yes, that provides the backup I was hoping for. THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!