Quick question-- Help with Diverter valve o-ring kit

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NewPoolGirlTX

NewPoolGirlTX

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Sep 5, 2021
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Austin, Texas
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13050
So I have a leak between my 3 way diverter valve and the actuator on top.
I think they are both Compool (actuator is). the black 3 way valve has no markings at all, no part number no name. I assume compool since that's what the other older valves are.

How do I know what o-ring kit will work for it? Amazon has some that say they work for Jandy or Pentair. But I read in a different thread on here that Jandy and Pentair are not interchangeable kits.

Thanks!
 
Pictures?

@1poolman1 can help. I believe Compool was bought by Pentair many many many years ago so I believe the kit you want is the Pentair one. But you should post a pic and wait for poolman’s response …
 
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Here are some pics. Handle says Compool, actuator is Compool. Valve itself is black without any markings inside or out that I could see other that DIV 20 because it's a 2" valvle. I took off the actuator. It does not leak if it's moved manually but with the actuator on, it leaks between the valve and the actuator.
20240309_130544.jpg20240309_153202.jpg20240309_141813.jpg20240309_134110.jpg
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Pictures?

@1poolman1 can help. I believe Compool was bought by Pentair many many many years ago so I believe the kit you want is the Pentair one. But you should post a pic and wait for poolman’s response …
Click to expand...
I posted pics above.

What I'm confused about is that the kits on amazon all say they work for Pentair or Jandy. And somehow we only have Leslie's here and they apparently have nothing in stock.

Looking at the Pentair parts diagrams, the amazon kits say they will work? But like I said, I saw in another thread that they are not the same o-ring kits for both brands.
 
Jandy/compool/pentair diverter valve orings are interchangeable. The only difference is the jandy stem orings stack ontop of each other and the compool/pentair have a stem ring between each stem oring. Link to the thread that says they aren’t interchangeable?
 
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NewPoolGirlTX said:
I posted pics above.

What I'm confused about is that the kits on amazon all say they work for Pentair or Jandy. And somehow we only have Leslie's here and they apparently have nothing in stock.

Looking at the Pentair parts diagrams, the amazon kits say they will work? But like I said, I saw in another thread that they are not the same o-ring kits for both brands.
Click to expand...
That's a Jandy valve with a Compool (now Pentair) actuator and handle, actators and handles are interchangeable.
All modern valves and actuators changed to the Jandy configuration many years ago as Jandy was so prevalent that you, basically, had to match them if you wanted to sell an actuator that would fit your brand as well as theirs. Pentair never changed the part number, CVA-24 (Compool Valve Actuator - 24Volt). Jandy's are JVA-2444. You needed to see the "24" a long time ago when sourcing a replacement as the original actuators were 12Volt motors.
The O rings for virtually all brands of valves, Jandy, Pentair, Hayward, CMP, etc. are all the same. The only exception is that some of the first series of Compool/Pentair valves had three stem O rings, or a spacer between two O rings.
 
1poolman1 said:
That's a Jandy valve with a Compool (now Pentair) actuator and handle, actators and handles are interchangeable.
All modern valves and actuators changed to the Jandy configuration many years ago as Jandy was so prevalent that you, basically, had to match them if you wanted to sell an actuator that would fit your brand as well as theirs. Pentair never changed the part number, CVA-24 (Compool Valve Actuator - 24Volt). Jandy's are JVA-2444. You needed to see the "24" a long time ago when sourcing a replacement as the original actuators were 12Volt motors.
The O rings for virtually all brands of valves, Jandy, Pentair, Hayward, CMP, etc. are all the same. The only exception is that some of the first series of Compool/Pentair valves had three stem O rings, or a spacer between two O rings.
Click to expand...
Thank you SO much for the explanation. :lovetfp:
Mine is old, I have a spacer between the o-rings.

I just hope replacing them fixes my leak!!
 

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NewPoolGirlTX said:
Thank you SO much for the explanation. :lovetfp:
Mine is old, I have a spacer between the o-rings.

I just hope replacing them fixes my leak!!
Click to expand...
Is the leak at the stem? If so, after removing the old O rings, clean and put some pool lube on the stem, add the O rings and spacer, put a bit more lube and then two or three tight wraps of Teflon tape over the O rings. After assembly, move the diverter with the handle attached to seat everything then attach the actuator. It will be a bit tight when it is reassembled, take it slow, but that should stop a leak at the stem of an old valve.
 
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1poolman1 said:
Is the leak at the stem? If so, after removing the old O rings, clean and put some pool lube on the stem, add the O rings and spacer, put a bit more lube and then two or three tight wraps of Teflon tape over the O rings. After assembly, move the diverter with the handle attached to seat everything then attach the actuator. It will be a bit tight when it is reassembled, take it slow, but that should stop a leak at the stem of an old valve.
Click to expand...
Thank you! The leak is here at the red arrow. So I think this will work. Appreciate the help so much!!20240309_141813.jpg
 
I prefer the split-ring spacer with top and bottom o-ring design. You can also get the split rings too if you happen to lose one. Make sure to use 100% silicone lubricant on all the o-rings, not Teflon based lubricants. I always replace he shaft and lid o-rings whenever I service a valve. O-rings are dirt cheap and it ensures everything is the same age when it goes back together.
 
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JoyfulNoise said:
I prefer the split-ring spacer with top and bottom o-ring design. You can also get the split rings too if you happen to lose one. Make sure to use 100% silicone lubricant on all the o-rings, not Teflon based lubricants. I always replace he shaft and lid o-rings whenever I service a valve. O-rings are dirt cheap and it ensures everything is the same age when it goes back together.
Click to expand...
shoot, I thought I was supposed to use Magic Lube. That's a PTFE based silicone, right? I have some 100% silicone but I thought that was wrong to use.

Good night, it gets confusing!!

But I SO appreciate all the guidance. y'all are the best.
 
Teflon based lubricants can harden up when they are exposed to water and strong oxidizers. Silicone remains fluid. Best to use silicone.
 
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