Questions regarding flow sensor, salt cell operating voltage, schematic – Cubby/AutoPilot

Coop42

New member
Nov 30, 2022
2
Toronto, ON, Canada
Pool Size
7500
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Autopilot Digital Nano+ PPC2
Hi there, I have a few general questions regarding SWG’s.

First, I have AutoPilot Cubby with an AC5 salt generator cell. This is the analogue precursor to the AutoPilot Nano.

It has stopped generating chlorine, and the blinking pattern doesn’t match that in any of the troubleshooting documentation that I’ve been able to find.

My first general question is about the flow sensor. It’s a two wire cable and a very small, so I believe it just contains a flow switch, no other sensors. The flow switch appears to be something like a reed switch that’s closed by a magnet on the vane when the water is flowing through the pipe. Is that all this is? Is it just a “open/closed” switch that provides an open or closed contact to the control panel – it’s not a Hall effect sensor is it?

If so, as part of a testing regime I should just be able to jumper the contacts on the bottom of the control panel to make it look like there is water flowing through the system, correct?

I’m not planning on doing this for any significant length of time, it’s just part of a test.

My second question is what should the DC output voltage to the RC5 salt generator cell be? Am I expecting 10V, 20V, 30V? Does anyone have any idea?

And my third question would be; does anyone have a schematic for the old Cubby, AquaCal/Autopilot control unit?

My thanks to anyone who can offer any help or information.
 

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42,

I do not know anything about your specific SWCG, but here are a couple of things I know about my system and assume that yours is about the same.

The flow switch is just an on/off set of contracts. As a test, there is no reason not to jumper the switch making it appear closed all the time.

The DC voltage to my cell is about 40 Volts DC when the cell is at rest, and about 35 Volts DC when the cell is making chlorine. My guess is that you need about 30 Volts DC to make any cell work.

Keep in mind that cells are consumables. The plating on the cell's plates is used up as the cell produces chlorine. Most cells last 5 to 7 years. Yours appears to be long past its used up date.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
42,

I do not know anything about your specific SWCG, but here are a couple of things I know about my system and assume that yours is about the same.

The flow switch is just an on/off set of contracts. As a test, there is no reason not to jumper the switch making it appear closed all the time.

The DC voltage to my cell is about 40 Volts DC when the cell is at rest, and about 35 Volts DC when the cell is making chlorine. My guess is that you need about 30 Volts DC to make any cell work.

Keep in mind that cells are consumables. The plating on the cell's plates is used up as the cell produces chlorine. Most cells last 5 to 7 years. Yours appears to be long past its used up date.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks Jim, and please accept apologies for my delayed thanks, I was in charge of our Local Main Street Christmas celebration this past weekend, and hadn't even checked in here since I posted my question.

I really appreciate your quick response. I expect that the cell 'used up' but I was confused about the error code lights that the device was flashing. The troubleshooting guide that came with the product talked about a sequence of flashing error codes, and the one that flashes on mine wasn't listed (of course!).

Knowing the typical output voltages and the fact that I basically have a submerged reed switch in the flow monitor, I'll be able to do some basic troubleshooting of the power supply/control unit.

Thanks again!
 
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