Questions about levels, why I am getting skewed results, and quick thoughts, advice while I wait to receive one of your test kits

[proavia]

In reviewing at your latest logs, everything is looking pretty good.
How did you get a TA of 65. Each drop counts as 10 ppm. Should this be 70?
There is no current CH entered. Last CH result was at least one month ago.

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

Yes it should be 70, I thought I corrected it but maybe not I will go back and check the log and revise if necessary. I'm not sure why it's not showing CH because I put it in. I deleted the original log and I did a revised log that should have everything. But I will definitely check it now.

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

Hello, sorry in advance for this long message...
I have had a few stains in my pool for the past 2 years. They have not really spread. They are black from what I can tell and they are shaped kind of like a Figure 8 with one side smaller than the other. Maybe they are too spots very close together I can't tell. I purchased Jack's Magic stain ID kit and none of the stain kits removed the two stains. I talked to Jim Sturick at Jack's Magic, one of his recommendations was to have my fill water tested. I did that, the water company came out did a thorough test and everything seems in order, there wasn't anything that would negatively affect my pool chemistry. Interestingly enough, he looked at the stains and he said they were organic. He said that it might be because I have a huge tree right next to my pool and I have leaves in my pool every day. I remove them everyday but they gather faster than I can get to all of them. There are also occasionally three or four weird looking beetle larvae in my pool but those are removed as soon as they are seen , it's always in the morning .
It is about time to close my pool. I would like to drain it enough where I can get to the stains and see if I can clean them or at least tell what they are. I know nothing about closing a pool or what is appropriate to do right before you close your pool. In addition, my pool math readings haven't been great. My pH has been high for a long time, and for the past month my free chlorine has been between 10 and 12, even though I have notched down the chlorine levels in the control panel.

Looking for opinions, suggestions, advice from the experts! In what order should I do things? I am guessing I should get the chemicals straight first, but if I'm going to empty the pool, or at least empty it to about 1 to 2 ft, then would it make more sense to test and balance after the new water is added? ( we do not drain the pool over the winter, we just have a very good cover)

Feel free to check out my cool math logs if you think it will help in any suggestions you collectively may make.

Again sorry for the novel but trying to be thorough. Looking forward to hearing from someone. Thanks in advance
Michelle

 

[ajw22]

A fiberglass pool should never be drained. The weight of the water is what holds the fiberglass pool into the ground. Even lowering the water level removes enough water weight that the pool can pop out of the ground. Especially in NC where you just got a lot of rain and your water table is probably high.

Does your pool pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?

Post pictures of your pool and the stains.

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

OK, i previously posted a question in my original thread about getting stains out of pool and was told that I would probably have to drain and refill. I quoted below. I don't ever drain it without immediately filling afterwards.
There is a picture of the stain(s) and pictures of my pool here: the adventures of a beginner

I can't figure out how to link any of the pictures in my media to a post so I hope giving you the URL of my album is good enough. I put some thumbnails below but again I don't know how big they will be when you see them.
.... michelle

00

If it’s copper, the only way to remove is to do a drain. I am not sure what your fill water is or what you have added.

There’s sequestrates to help prevent staining.

Here’s further info and tests to do as well,

Stains in Your Pool

The stained pool is beyond embarrassing. Our in-depth Guide to remove stains in your pool will help you to remove the stains and prevent them in the future.

www.troublefreepool.com

How are you feeling now?

If you do the slam process, you need to be consistent or you will continue to be frustrated.

 

[Newdude]

In what order should I do things? I am guessing I should get the chemicals straight first, but if I'm going to empty the pool, or at least empty it to about 1 to 2 ft, then would it make more sense to test and balance after the new water is added?

Maintain FC throughout. Minimum FC is lava. No exceptions.

Test and balance everything else after refilling. There's no need to dump

I can't figure out how to link any of the pictures in my media to a post

Click at the bottom of your reply field




From there more options appear to select the upload source, depending on the device.

Select your image(s)

Then they appear as thumbnails at the bottom. Click 'insert' and then 'full image'

 

[ajw22]

I do not see any significant stains in the picture.

The person who told you to drain gave you the standard answer without thinking about your fiberglass pool. We use the No Drain Water Exchange as described in Draining - Further Reading to replace water in a fiberglass pool.

I would not risk draining a fiberglass pool for cosmetic problems.

 

[tgurske]

I love your pool!

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

I do not see any significant stains in the picture.

The person who told you to drain gave you the standard answer without thinking about your fiberglass pool. We use the No Drain Water Exchange as described in Draining - Further Reading to replace water in a fiberglass pool.

I would not risk draining a fiberglass pool for cosmetic problems.

Thanks for the info. Like I said we have never drained the pool, we have taken some water out of it to add more at times and once we drained probably a quarter or so just to add some new fill water but that's it. But I'm glad to know for certain that it's a bad thing to think about doing.

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

Maintain FC throughout. Minimum FC is lava. No exceptions.

Test and balance everything else after refilling. There's no need to dump

Click at the bottom of your reply field

View attachment 612452


From there more options appear to select the upload source, depending on the device.

Select your image(s)

Then they appear as thumbnails at the bottom. Click 'insert' and then 'full image'

View attachment 612453

Thanks alot for the info. I received this message about draining a pool:

The person who told you to drain gave you the standard answer without thinking about your fiberglass pool. We use the No Drain Water Exchange as described in Draining - Further Reading to replace water in a fiberglass pool.

So I guess I won't drain it?! If you look at my levels, I just tested today, they are all out of whack and they have been for a while. I think I need to do the overnight chlorine test can't remember off the top of my head what it's called, I might have to do slam maybe? I remember when I first started on this site my levels were way out of whack and that's what we ended up doing. If you have time to take a look at my recent logs I'd really like to hear your opinion.

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

I love your pool!

Thanks so much! The landscaping and decorating around it leaves a lot to be desired at this point but I'll be working on it!

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

In reviewing at your latest logs, everything is looking pretty good.
How did you get a TA of 65. Each drop counts as 10 ppm. Should this be 70?
There is no current CH entered. Last CH result was at least one month ago.

Well my latest logs are not good. It has been a little while since all the levels were in sync. I guess maybe I should do the overnight chlorine test, and probably slam after that? What do you think? I remember when I first joined my levels were really messed up and we ended up doing Slam after I wasn't able to correct them sufficiently.

In reviewing at your latest logs, everything is looking pretty good.
How did you get a TA of 65. Each drop counts as 10 ppm. Should this be 70?
There is no current CH entered. Last CH result was at least one month ago.

 

[Newdude]

So I guess I won't drain it?

You were pointed to a explanation of the no drain exchange above, which is a smart play with all the wet weather you've been through recently. The exchange accomplishes the same as a drain.

If you look at my levels, I just tested today, they are all out of whack and they have been for a while

How so ? What is out of whack ?

think I need to do the overnight chlorine test can't remember off the top of my head what it's called

You nailed it.

Here's the refresher :
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

You'll want to pass one right before closing, or also now if there is any algae appearing at all, or the FC doesn't hold well.

 

[ajw22]

I remember when I first started on this site my levels were way out of whack and that's what we ended up doing. If you have time to take a look at my recent logs I'd really like to hear your opinion.

Nothing very out of wack.

Add 10 - 20 Ozs of 31% MA to lower your pH by 0.2 - 0.4.

Lower the SWG % a bit and let your FC drop to around 8.

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

Maybe i am not looking at pool math the right way... Received this message:

You need to set the targets for what YOU want. The defaults are exactly that, defaults and not recommendations.

POOLMATH is a calculator and does not know what levels you want to maintain your pool at. You need to set the levels you desire.

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

and it made me wonder if i was using the right target values. So i reviewed the recommended levels chart and the CYA level article.
I don't think i based my target level in pool math on the cya/fc chart. honestly i don't know how i got the value that is in there. So based on today's logs, my fc target should be 4 - 9. (correct? Y/N)
In pool math i have my target level at 2 - 6.
So have i been using the wrong targets?

-m

 

[ajw22]

So based on today's logs, my fc target should be 4 - 9. (correct? Y/N)

Correct. I would set the target at the high end of ranges.

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

You were pointed to a explanation of the no drain exchange above, which is a smart play with all the wet weather you've been through recently. The exchange accomplishes the same as a drain.

How so ? What is out of whack ?

You nailed it.

Here's the refresher :
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

You'll want to pass one right before closing, or also now if there is any algae appearing at all, or the FC doesn't hold well.

Thanks - i am bummed about having to do it bc it is getting cold here at night and in the morning

 

[thenewpoolgirl]

You were pointed to a explanation of the no drain exchange above, which is a smart play with all the wet weather you've been through recently. The exchange accomplishes the same as a drain.

How so ? What is out of whack ?

You nailed it.

Here's the refresher :
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

You'll want to pass one right before closing, or also now if there is any algae appearing at all, or the FC doesn't hold well.

I was reading the how to close inground pool... got to this part:
----

• Balance – I bring PH to between 7.4 and 7.6 and make sure TA and CH are not too far out of line. This is generally easy as everything pretty much remains balanced all the time.
• SLAM – Two or three days before closing, I bring the pool up to shock level and hold it there until FC holds overnight (which it generally does right off on the first night). Then I let the chlorine level fall about half way back to normal levels, typically another day and a half.

so we were talking of possibly doing slam now - but since i am getting ready to close the pool, should i follow the above, i.e. just get my ph and ta right then do the slam as it is part of the close process??
-m