Question regarding new pool equipment (Salt?)

discgolfer85

New member
Jun 21, 2021
3
CA
Hi all!

We are building a new pool (a few months from now) and I'm a bit confused and looking for some advice with regards to the equipment that the PB recommended we use:

  • Filter: 2 x 200CCRP Cartridge
  • Pump: 1 x IntelliFlo VSF
  • Chlorinator: 1 x BioShield UV System with Nature 2 Chlorinator "in-line"
  • Pool heater: Aquatherm AT-150 Heat Pump
My question specifically is around the Chlorinator. Is this considered a SWCG or is using a different method of chlorination? When I asked PB about SW system, they mentioned that our equipment was better and that it would "require 50% less chlorine than your typical pool". However, I'd like to know if this is truly the case and whether or not I should push harder and get my system upgraded to a true SWGC. Top of mind for me would be:

  • Easier maintenance
  • Easier on the skin / less chemicals (we have a 2 year old)
  • Cheaper? (heard cost of chlorine is going up due to shortages)
Many thanks in advance! We are first time pool owners and we are just looking for some sound / honest advice and to keep our PB honest (if necessary).

Thanks!
 
What is the size of you new pool? What area of CA?

You will be better served with oversized cartridge filter and oversized heater.
Depending on your climate a heat pump may not deliver what you need to heat your pool.
 
Welcome to the forum!
What you have listed is a UV system and a Trichlor tablet chlorinator. with mineral/metals package. We at TFPC would not recommend any of that.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Thank you for the links! I will read up on this later tonight.

Is it safe to assume that going with SWCG would be preferred over the current set of equipment that the PB is highly recommending us to go with? And if so, would a Pentair Intellichlor IC40 Salt System be a good system to go with?

What is the size of you new pool? What area of CA?

You will be better served with oversized cartridge filter and oversized heater.
Depending on your climate a heat pump may not deliver what you need to heat your pool.
Our pool size is a little 630ft and we are in Southern CA, close to San Diego where the weather is a bit warmer throughout the year. Would you recommend still going with a larger heater?

Thanks all in advance for your help.
 
85,

The words you never want to hear are... "It requires less chlorine..." This means that whatever they are selling is some form of magic.. Chlorine is what keeps your pool sanitized. If you use less you have to augment with something like UV or minerals which have plenty of their own problems.. All of these magic systems must use chlorine, so what is the point. The best sanitizer, and the only one approved by the government, is plain and simple chlorine.

Saltwater pools are chlorine pools, they just use the salt in the water to make chlorine.

I have three saltwater pools and love them. The easiest type of pool to care for, is a saltwater pool..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Our pool size is a little 630ft and we are in Southern CA, close to San Diego where the weather is a bit warmer throughout the year. Would you recommend still going with a larger heater?
I'm assuming it is 630 cubic feet what would be roughly 17.9K gallons.

The cartridge size is the bigger the better, so you don't have to clean it often. Of course, if 400sqft (2x 200sqft) is what fits than there is not much to choose from.

I remember chatting with someone else from San Diego area... isn't your climate very dry?

Heat pumps work by extracting heat from the air and transferring it to the water. Dry air holds less heat than humid air (the whole reason why deserts are cold at night).

Assuming this is your heat pump.... It has this test results:
BTUs (Water Temp/Ambient Air/Relative Humidity)
80/80/80138,000
80/80/63129,000
80/50/6388,000
It's efficiency drops when both air temp and air humidity go down.
An 17.9k gal pool will hold about 149k lbs of water and 1 BTU is 1F on 1lb of water.
In ideal conditions (80/80/80) that heat pump would be able to heat your pool about 0.9F per hour.
The same heat pump on (80/50/63 - air at 50F and RH at 63%) will only heat 0.6F per hour. If your relative humidity is lower it will heat even less per hour.
This is not an exact science as you have heat loss to the environment/evaporation and heat gain from sunlight (extra gain if using a solar cover), so actual heating is going to be different.

If your climate is indeed dry and receives a lot of sun then you might be better served with a Solar heater and if desired a gas heater as backup.
 
85,

The words you never want to hear are... "It requires less chlorine..." This means that whatever they are selling is some form of magic.. Chlorine is what keeps your pool sanitized. If you use less you have to augment with something like UV or minerals which have plenty of their own problems.. All of these magic systems must use chlorine, so what is the point. The best sanitizer, and the only one approved by the government, is plain and simple chlorine.

Saltwater pools are chlorine pools, they just use the salt in the water to make chlorine.

I have three saltwater pools and love them. The easiest type of pool to care for, is a saltwater pool..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Makes perfect sense, thank you for the recommendation, I think I'm convinced SWCG is the way to go (all for easier maintenance and less snake oil magic).

I'm assuming it is 630 cubic feet what would be roughly 17.9K gallons.

The cartridge size is the bigger the better, so you don't have to clean it often. Of course, if 400sqft (2x 200sqft) is what fits than there is not much to choose from.

I remember chatting with someone else from San Diego area... isn't your climate very dry?

Heat pumps work by extracting heat from the air and transferring it to the water. Dry air holds less heat than humid air (the whole reason why deserts are cold at night).

Assuming this is your heat pump.... It has this test results:
BTUs (Water Temp/Ambient Air/Relative Humidity)
80/80/80138,000
80/80/63129,000
80/50/6388,000
It's efficiency drops when both air temp and air humidity go down.
An 17.9k gal pool will hold about 149k lbs of water and 1 BTU is 1F on 1lb of water.
In ideal conditions (80/80/80) that heat pump would be able to heat your pool about 0.9F per hour.
The same heat pump on (80/50/63 - air at 50F and RH at 63%) will only heat 0.6F per hour. If your relative humidity is lower it will heat even less per hour.
This is not an exact science as you have heat loss to the environment/evaporation and heat gain from sunlight (extra gain if using a solar cover), so actual heating is going to be different.

If your climate is indeed dry and receives a lot of sun then you might be better served with a Solar heater and if desired a gas heater as backup.
Wow, thank you for the super detailed response, really appreciate it! Regarding climate, yes very dry not a lot of rain, will definitely look into solar heater options!
 
Makes perfect sense, thank you for the recommendation, I think I'm convinced SWCG is the way to go (all for easier maintenance and less snake oil magic).
Make sure you get an SWCG for at least twice the size of your pool. The logic is an SWCG that can produce more Cl/h can run in a lower setting for fewer hours per day. That will save you on electricity for your pump and extend the life of your SWCG cell. It is another item that the bigger the better (as long as it fits your budget).
Side Note: The bigger the better rule does not apply to pump. You are going to be very well served with a VS pump.

Just to be clear on the heat pump. It is not that it won't work. But you won't get the best performance out of it.
 
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