question on my heater install, was it installed right or just cheap?

JimWilson

Active member
May 9, 2024
27
Arizona
From a quick look at the install of my heater, it needs to be replaced do to age and AZ heat it is full of leak. If I need to replace Im thinking it might be a good time to
re-plumb things and fix some stuff if possible.
The drawing below is what I have for the heater, there is 1 control valve installed and if I'm using the heater close this valve and force all the water thru the heater. Under normal pool operations this valve is mostly open but not fully to allow little flow thru the heater just to keep water moving thru it. (I do not know that is what I was told) however, I have no idea if or how much water is infact moving thru the heater. To me this just seems like a cheap way to install, is it ?
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I was thinking I could change a little bit add 2caddition valves and have more control but would this make a difference ?
What would the best options be? Someone said to look into 3-way valves but Im not sure what that would look like or do?

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Adding in 3-way valves ?
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For a heater bypass, a single Jandy 3-way valve and a single Jandy check valve will allow the heater to be isolated and prevent deadheading the pump.
 
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I was not questioning if I need a heater bypass, I was asking what the best way is to build in the bypass. Understand the reason on the check valve but hear lots of problems using them in AZ and needing to replace the inner seals all the time? Now I need a drain? input or output side of the heater? does that matter?
 
I was not questioning if I need a heater bypass, I was asking what the best way is to build in the bypass. Understand the reason on the check valve but hear lots of problems using them in AZ and needing to replace the inner seals all the time? Now I need a drain? input or output side of the heater? does that matter?
Where are you hearing about lots of problems using a check valve in AZ?
Can you cite references here on TFP or elsewhere?

The main point of a heater bypass is to not have flow reduced when not using the heater. This allows running a VS pump at a lower RPM to move a given amount of water. If your pH is below recommended range or you need to take the heater off line for any reason, you fully bypass the heater. For heating, you direct flow thru the heater. For normal non-heating, you can allow flow thru the heater and thru the bypass leg concurrently - allowing no reduction in flow while allowing a little water to flow thru the heater as well.

Looking at the 3-way Jandy valve in the image in post #3
  • Off pointed toward heater - heater fully bypassed
  • Off pointed to right - full flow to heater
  • Off pointed down - most of flow to bypass and a little thru heater. This should allow some water to flow thru the heater to keep the heater water refreshed. But flow will not be restricted as the bypass line is also fully open. Water will take the path of least resistance, so most should bypass the heater and a little go thru the heater.
  • Valve can be set to any in between setting as desired. You will need to determine what works best for your setup.
Many heaters have an internal bypass as well, to optimize flow thru the heater's heat exchanger. In theory, this allow you to direct all flow thru the heater and let the heater bypass what it needs to to optimize the flow thru the heat exchanger section.

Heaters should have a built-in drain plug to facilitate draining.
 
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I was asking what the best way is to build in the bypass
Every setup will be a little different and tailored to the equipment pad and plumbing setup. In general, you'll need a 3-way diverter and a check valve.

needing to replace the inner seals all the time?
You should get many years of service from the check valve before it needs attention. Always get high quality diverter and check valves (Jandy or Pentair) since they can be easily rebuilt if necessary.
 
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