Question about phosphates

[lavndrocean]

My TA and pH seems to be running high the last couple weeks (I'll add the most recent test in a minute), I've been following Pool Math recommendations on muriatic acid. Today the salt cell said to inspect it so we did, we clean it monthly, along with cleaning the pool filter bi-weekly. We took the cell up to get tested at the local pool place, everything is working properly. I was wondering if it was working properly because the cell said to have it inspected but also because we have the input at 30% right now and usually that runs us around 6 on the FC and right now it's at 4 (FC).
First thing the lady asked at the pool store, after saying the cell was working properly, was about the cya (which is 70.) She asked about testing the phosphates; I haven't tested phosphates in a year- the TF_Pro Salt test kit we have doesn't have that/instructions etc. Last time we ever used a pool store for testing chemicals was right before me finding this site, about a year ago, and they had us buy a bunch of No Phos. Can someone tell me how to test phosphates because she went into having too many or too little and algae being why the chlorine is low at 30% output. Our pool isn't cloudy or looking off or discolored and she said that doesn't matter.
I test weekly and aside from the TA everything else has been fine. I just don't want them selling me Crud I don't need, as usual.

 

[mknauss]

Phosphates rarely matter.
I suggest you read Phosphate Removers - Further Reading

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[lavndrocean]

Phosphates rarely matter.
I suggest you read Phosphate Removers - Further Reading

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

will do, thank you.

 

[lavndrocean]

Phosphates rarely matter.
I suggest you read Phosphate Removers - Further Reading

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

I'm currently reading the article (head spinning), my husband came back from the pool store, the Phosphates are 0
FC 4.86
TC 4.94
pH 7.8
TA 99
CH 107 (very different from my test using TF)
CYA 52 (again, different than TF)
Iron 0
Copper 0
Phosphates 0
Salt 3000

 

[mknauss]

As we say, do not go to the pool store -- and I very much doubt the phosphates are zero. All water has phosphates in it.

But at the end of the day, they rarely matter. Do the OCLT.

 

[lavndrocean]

As we say, do not go to the pool store -- and I very much doubt the phosphates are zero. All water has phosphates in it.

But at the end of the day, they rarely matter. Do the OCLT.

Well in between me reading and my husband going to the store, we didn't talk before he was outside adding half a bag of salt to the pool because the store told him too. I've been taking care of this pool by myself for almost a year, perfectly, and he just came home and did what the store told him to do. Good lord help me. Okay- how long do I have to wait now to do the OCLT please?

 

[mknauss]

Salt has no effect. Do the OCLT tonight.

You have a Salt test kit. I would wait a few days and use it. With your SWCG, you do not want to go over 3200 ppm or so. It can burn out the control board.

 

[lavndrocean]

Salt has no effect. Do the OCLT tonight.

You have a Salt test kit. I would wait a few days and use it. With your SWCG, you do not want to go over 3200 ppm or so. It can burn out the control board.

thank heavens on that (OCLT). It was already at 3100 so hopefully it won't be too bad. Thank you. Just to clarify something on the OCLT, turn the pump on but the SWG off, correct?

 

[mknauss]

turn the pump on but the SWG off, correct?

yes. Pump running is fine. Or, if you get up early, you can run the pump for about 30 minutes before the sun comes up. Either way.

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

I use the Natural Chemistry phosphate test. I don't worry about phosphates, I just like to know what's in my water. (I also test for salt occasionally even though I lack a SWCG.)

This test kit looks like test strips, but it's not, exactly. The strips contain chemicals which dissolve in the test tube and color the water. You don't read the strips, you read the water color.

They may not be any more accurate than the pool store, but I'll bet they're more consistent from test to test (and they won't try to sell me PhosFree). For the best test - if you care that much - you'd want the Taylor K-1106.

 

[Mdragger88]

Definitely dose to target fc levels with liquid chlorine now
FC/CYA Levels
& do the
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight as prescribed above - you may be right on the edge of an algae problem & hopefully catching it early if that’s the case.

A couple notes*
Cleaning your cell with any type of acid reduces its lifespan so it’s best to maintain proper csi to prevent it needing to be cleaned in the 1st place. Cleaning it monthly is likely very much overkill. Many with csi in range rarely if ever need to clean their cell in its life.

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Your swg has an inspect cell reminder light that comes on after 500 hrs whether the cell is dirty or not - it’s just on a timer like an oil change reminder.
If the cell is clean you can simply reset it

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[lavndrocean]

@mknauss I did the OCLT-- last night TC was 5.5 and this morning (7:30a) it was 5.5
I'm attaching the other chem results from this morning too since I input all of them anyway- The CH is 300 and the TA is still at 90 with a pH over 8.2 (I think the pH is actually a little higher because it's darker than the 8.2 on the tester, not terribly, but as you know the tester doesn't go above 8.2)
@Mdragger88 thank you for the heads up on cleaning the cell, the csi and the inspect indicator- I had no idea, obviously. How do I go about resetting it, is there a button on the cell itself (I haven't looked).

 

[lavndrocean]

I use the Natural Chemistry phosphate test. I don't worry about phosphates, I just like to know what's in my water. (I also test for salt occasionally even though I lack a SWCG.)

This test kit looks like test strips, but it's not, exactly. The strips contain chemicals which dissolve in the test tube and color the water. You don't read the strips, you read the water color.

They may not be any more accurate than the pool store, but I'll bet they're more consistent from test to test (and they won't try to sell me PhosFree). For the best test - if you care that much - you'd want the Taylor K-1106.

Hey thank you! I bought the Taylor k-1106 last night, just to have it on hand.

 

[Texas Splash]

With the exception of your pH, all your numbers look quite good. Just need to get some muriatic acid in there quickly to control that pH and bring it back down to 7.8 or slightly below. Actually anywhere in the 7.2 - 7.8 range is fine, but your water may tend to like a pH that settles in the upper 7s. Passing the OCLT is good.

 

[Mdragger88]

How do I go about resetting it, is there a button on the cell itself (I haven't looked).

Instructions are in the Hayward aquarite article I posted.

Your swg just may have not had time to catch up to your current fc demands as uv becomes stonger & the warmer weather approaches. You can & should always bump up fc with liquid chlorine & then adjust your swg percentage to see if it maintains. They’re great fc maintainers but are very slow fc increasers.
Here’s the approximate effects of running your cell @30% for 24 hrs a day

The average pool consumes 2-4 ppm fc per day depending upon the season & sometimes even higher in places like sunny Florida - it’s simply time to increase the percentage a dab especially if you’re not running it around the clock.

 

[lavndrocean]

Instructions are in the Hayward aquarite article I posted.

Your swg just may have not had time to catch up to your current fc demands as uv becomes stonger & the warmer weather approaches. You can & should always bump up fc with liquid chlorine & then adjust your swg percentage to see if it maintains. They’re great fc maintainers but are very slow fc increasers.
Here’s the approximate effects of running your cell @30% for 24 hrs a day
View attachment 477657
The average pool consumes 2-4 ppm fc per day depending upon the season & sometimes even higher in places like sunny Florida - it’s simply time to increase the percentage a dab especially if you’re not running it around the clock.

Thank you!