Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Page 16 and 19 have them upstream. It only cares if the flow switch can be isolated to have flow when the SWG doesn't, like in the case in the 3rd pic where the automated valve has the water going to the spa.is that it on the other pipe run? it should be downstream of your SWG....
Like this
Nope, it's the pressure side. It is past/downstream from the SWG. Flow goes through SWG, then through diverter valve (pool return and sun ledge returns) then pressure switch and then booster pump for pressure cleaner. The booster pump isn't used, but I maintain the water flow for freezing concerns in the winter (we don't close down for winter). Sorry the pictures aren't clear, the pics link in my sig line has more older pad pics.Let me rephrase.. it looks like its on the suction side of the pump. and I assume that is the main pump... its hard to see since we don't have a full shot of all the plumbning. I have never seen them installed there.
Yeah, not the best pictures. I'll update my photo album tomorrow after I have fully rehydrated.I knew there had to be something missing in there somewhere.
Yeah, not the best pictures. I'll update my photo album tomorrow after I have fully rehydrated.![]()
Just noticed the same thing. It will be fine when all is working OK. Issue is if there is a block on the other side of the pump, it could cause a problem.err humm where is your flow switch?.. is that it on the other pipe run? it should be downstream of your SWG....
Like this:
View attachment 152607
I got that from here:
"block on other side of pump"...not sure what you are speaking of? You mean if there is blockage *past* the booster pump pressure line? If so, that would trip the switch and cause it to stop...as designed. As I mentioned, this is a booster pump, *not* the filter pump.Just noticed the same thing. It will be fine when all is working OK. Issue is if there is a block on the other side of the pump, it could cause a problem.
Thanks for the picture of the WHOLE pad....
I renew my concern. I have a feeling you are going to see significant flow reduction if the booster pump is not on ..there may not be enough flow to turn on the SWG with out it. In all honesty the flow switch is supposed to be on the SAME pipe run as the SWG Cell from my understanding. Its there to protect the cell. If its on another pipe run its subject to a different set of flow conditions.
You have more than enough space to put the flow switch downstream of the SWG. Why didn't you put it there? I think that's where it should go. That's how I have mine set up.
That Jandy valve should accommodate a 2in slip over the pipe. I'm guessing by looking at your pic, so I would check to be sure. You can cut but up against valve, and put a 2" slip to a reducer for the diameter pipe you have there and still have room to use some slips for the existing flow switch.
(I just checked mine and the flow switch is 2".. so I'm not sure if yours is too)
Already have a robot (see signature) and haven't been using the booster pump since we moved in over 2 years ago. The instructions specifically said (and I have read here as well) that the SWG should come *after* the heater. I have no reason to remove the booster pump...I don't envision it seizing but if it does, then I will address that when it happens.makes sense, if you ever get a robot and take the booster pump out you could fit it in the line going to the heater.
Have you found a adjustment that keeps your FC stable yet?
Well OK!... If its working. I know I get a much smaller trickle of flow through my booster line if its not on. If you ever have to redo it there is more than enough room for the switch there.So, long story short...it's installed IAW with the installation specs, it works, and there aren't any leaks. So, no change orders accepted.![]()
Yep, I am looking forward to not looking for/purchasing LC every other month...especially these days! Thanks for all the info, too...it's appreciated!Well OK!... If its working. I know I get a much smaller trickle of flow through my booster line if its not on. If you ever have to redo it there is more than enough room for the switch there.
But now that you are producing CL..ain't that just too kewl!
The flow from the booster pump return is excellent (I don't use it). Keep in mind that I have an old school 2 speed pump that runs on high most of the time and the SWG has been running with no issues for the last couple of days. I didn't put the flow switch there because of my relative inexperience w/ PVC. There were two unions (slip or otherwise) that was too close to the Jandy valve for my comfort (the switch is 4" long) so went with what was the next best alternative in my opinion. I don't see any real way that there wouldn't be flow to the switch unless the Jandy valve failed, then it would shut it down as designed.
So, long story short...it's installed IAW with the installation specs, it works, and there aren't any leaks. So, no change orders accepted.
Already have a robot (see signature) and haven't been using the booster pump since we moved in over 2 years ago. The instructions specifically said (and I have read here as well) that the SWG should come *after* the heater. I have no reason to remove the booster pump...I don't envision it seizing but if it does, then I will address that when it happens.
I had a pretty high FC already (in case there were issues and I was without a pump for a few days) so not dialed in yet. I have used pool math and the SWG calculator to come up with a guesstimate...so I will report back in a few days.