Water line about 3/4 up to the skimmer. The weir door is not as flat as it was so seems to be working better but did not solve my water level in the pump.
It was like this the day I opened the pool. The filters are clean and the cartridges are on the 2nd season. The whole setup is only a year old. I do have replacement cartridges I may swap out. I will add this as the next trouble shooting item along with lubing/replacing o rings and gaskets, tightening connections etc.We all like to see a pump pot 100% full of water to the point it almost looks empty under the lid. Mine is rarely that way, being mostly full with a few bubbles. My pot level drops as the filter gets dirty. You mentioned you cleaned the filters a while back, but is there any chance your chemistry is allowing a high organic load? The filter pressure gauge may or may not show it.
That's good to hear, but your signature is blank and doesn't show your equipment or which test kit you are using. There are no test results posted in this thread yet, and your PoolMath APP test logs are not linked to TFP, so we can't see your chemistry. This may very well be a mechanical issue (seal, etc), but it's always good to rule-out chemistry right off the bat. At some point it would be reassuring to see all your numbers so we can put that concern behind us.BTW all chemical readings are spot on. water crystal clear no algae etc.
Perfect. I do get a little nervous when I see an FC on the lower side like that. Even in your area and with a relatively low CYA, summers get warm and if the chlorine dips even just for a short time the water will look good but there's a large organic demand we can't see. The pressure gauge may not show it either. It happens to all of us at some point. By chance have you considered doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test just to be safe? Probably not a bad idea while you continue to look for any mechanical culprits.Updated profile. Here are my test results: