Pump died, what’s my fastest route to get water filtering again?
- Thread starter bbutters
- Start date
I’m really just stuck between:
Hayward MaxFlo VS 1.65hp
- known quantity of the brand
- control panel can be mounted on the wall, which is very enticing given the position of my pump inside a shed
- $1k after rebate
Harris 72522
- unknown brand
- similar features otherwise
- $550
Century Vgreen VS retrofit kit
- seems like a reliable brand
- retain existing pump housing, no need to re plumb technically
- $660 including the new impeller etc
Ugh, decisions.
Hayward MaxFlo VS 1.65hp
- known quantity of the brand
- control panel can be mounted on the wall, which is very enticing given the position of my pump inside a shed
- $1k after rebate
Harris 72522
- unknown brand
- similar features otherwise
- $550
Century Vgreen VS retrofit kit
- seems like a reliable brand
- retain existing pump housing, no need to re plumb technically
- $660 including the new impeller etc
Ugh, decisions.
If all else is good, the V-Green, last option, will give the same results as the first option at near half the cost. You can use your existing time click as well. These are both 240v options, not 120v.
Current setup is 240v so that’s ok.
You’re right, I should probably just KISS. If I use my existing timer, when it powers up the motor do you know whether I could still make some use of the custom programming, ie change the default speed/duration? I will have to read up on that.
EDIT - sounds like I could, because a power cycle will just restart whatever 24-hour program is set up.
Will the motor actually fit? It states “replaces MaxFlo” but has what I’m learning is a C flange, where the current setup is a square flange… or does my square plastic flange unbolt at the 4 bolt heads from inside and then get attached to the new motor…
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I'm not comfortable with the wet end you have. Say you get the new motor....and finally get things going only to find out that more parts are needed. I suggest cut your losses and get a complete pump and be done with it working once. Hind sight is always 20'20 so why wait for more disappointment.
Three speeds and durations can be programmed into the motor. On Century's website there are links to how to use this motor with a standard timeclock.
amymeme
Well-known member
When the pump that came with property looked like that, we replaced the whole pump. Sorry it's a more dire issue.
- Dec 13, 2020
- 908
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I really agree with this. I'm pretty new to pool equipment, but I've worked on machines most of my life. When one part is in the shape that motor is, others are probably also near the end of their usefulness. How much of your life do you want to spend playing whack-a-mole with pump parts failing every few weeks or months? If you live for that kind of thing, great. Replace the motor and look forward to future problem solving. Otherwise, replace the whole thing.
Yea I’m leaning towards the complete replacement. For such a thing as a pool, I’m not trying to be penny wise and pound foolish. By the same token I think I can feel comfortable enough springing for the known quantity of the Hayward and the luxury of having buttons for it where I want them. It’s not a terribly big difference in cost.
Going to confirm availability on the Max-Flo VS, looks like I can get it by Friday. If a local pool tech is available to install I’ll probably let them do it. If they aren’t I’ll do it myself. Will keep reading up on plumbing best practices to see what else I can make better at this juncture - ditch the leaky shutoff, unions everywhere, get rid of a couple ball valves that are in place to bypass the heater.
Going to confirm availability on the Max-Flo VS, looks like I can get it by Friday. If a local pool tech is available to install I’ll probably let them do it. If they aren’t I’ll do it myself. Will keep reading up on plumbing best practices to see what else I can make better at this juncture - ditch the leaky shutoff, unions everywhere, get rid of a couple ball valves that are in place to bypass the heater.
Try your local Craigslist or big city nearby. They generally have folks on there that rebuild these pumps for around $125. Or, if you’re handy, it sounds like the impeller is gone. It’s easy to repair and cheap.
- Dec 13, 2020
- 908
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Putting in a pump is pretty simple. Worth learning because needs to tweak plumbing seem to come up now and then as bits and pieces age out.
There are lots of Youtube videos. First watch some on plumbing with PVC. There are right and wrong ways to do the cutting, shaping, and gluing. Easy to do right once you're paying attention. Then watch a bunch of the pump replacement videos with a critical eye. Some (most) of the "pool professionals" are just terrible at plumbing. A few actually honor best practice.
The big thing to watch out for is that some pump warranties are only good or are for much longer if a registered installer does the work. Guess that's industry's way of keeping their distributors in the green. Whether to roll the dice with no/short warranty or pay a few $00 to an installer to have that fallback is a personal thing.
That's a great price for a complete pump. Hopefully it will last a few years. Can you get seal kits for it?
I read a post here a while back expressing an opinion that pumps have become a commodity. I think I'm leaning that way.
Very insightful question. The seal appears to be a standard U.S. Seal PS-201. The site wireform linked also shows parts breakdowns. The pump is also marketed under the brand Pureline and its part breakdown calls out the 201 seal as an alternate number.
Pump is expected to arrive tomorrow, fingers crossed.
Started to disassemble, the suction side union came off easily enough. I plan on installing a female threaded adapter, gluing a length of pipe to that and then coupling it onto the cpvc tailpiece of the pump union.
I’m wondering if I should rearrange anything while I’m doing this… I tend to go overboard but in this case it seems like the position of the suction manifold, the supply manifold, and the heater mean there’s not much I could improve. I will repair the rubber coupler and remove whatever that purple feeder is, and put unions on the multiport valve.
Pardon the mess, this is surely sub optimal and not how anyone would do things nowadays, but it’s out of sight and it’s been functional for years.
Started to disassemble, the suction side union came off easily enough. I plan on installing a female threaded adapter, gluing a length of pipe to that and then coupling it onto the cpvc tailpiece of the pump union.
I’m wondering if I should rearrange anything while I’m doing this… I tend to go overboard but in this case it seems like the position of the suction manifold, the supply manifold, and the heater mean there’s not much I could improve. I will repair the rubber coupler and remove whatever that purple feeder is, and put unions on the multiport valve.
Pardon the mess, this is surely sub optimal and not how anyone would do things nowadays, but it’s out of sight and it’s been functional for years.
Attachments
Finished this up yesterday afternoon. Packaging is pretty tight even just to get unions in there was a puzzle.
Couple minor leaks I might try leak b gone or similar, or just rebuild a few sections in the winter.
Suction port on the filter valve is the worst drip, even though I’m pretty sure I tightened the threaded adapter all the way until it stopped. Might need to take that off and apply some permatex sealant, upon disassembly it seemed like there was a liberal application.
I also rewired the shutoff switch - only issue there is that the threads in the weatherproof box that the switch screws into seem stripped so I’ll have to upsize.
The bonding wire wasn’t quite long enough to reach the rear mounted lug, so that will also need to be properly lengthened in the near future.
The new pump is amazing coming from the ancient lump I had - quiet, and so much more advanced with the panel. Disappointed the remote interface mount kit is separate and they want $100 for two molded pieces of plastic. So that’ll be coming next.
Couple minor leaks I might try leak b gone or similar, or just rebuild a few sections in the winter.
Suction port on the filter valve is the worst drip, even though I’m pretty sure I tightened the threaded adapter all the way until it stopped. Might need to take that off and apply some permatex sealant, upon disassembly it seemed like there was a liberal application.
I also rewired the shutoff switch - only issue there is that the threads in the weatherproof box that the switch screws into seem stripped so I’ll have to upsize.
The bonding wire wasn’t quite long enough to reach the rear mounted lug, so that will also need to be properly lengthened in the near future.
The new pump is amazing coming from the ancient lump I had - quiet, and so much more advanced with the panel. Disappointed the remote interface mount kit is separate and they want $100 for two molded pieces of plastic. So that’ll be coming next.
