Pulling my hair out over pump issue

Pool_Medic

In The Industry
Apr 1, 2018
1,554
Bangor Maine
Any speed under 1500 rpm is low, but you need to also remember that while sand can restrict flow so can the size of your pipes. My own house my pump runs at 1100 rpm 24/7 unless the solar kicks it up. On 1100 rpm the pump basket is 70% filled. On 2200 for solar the pump will fill to 90%. No bubbles no issues.
 

Bperry

Gold Supporter
Aug 20, 2020
1,070
Knoxville, TN
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60
My pump also runs a big bubble of its only really low speed. Probably similar to that. As long as it doesn’t grow in size, I think it’s ok.
 

laprjns

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 14, 2012
520
Ellington, CT
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
I don't think my returns are at issue however, as I have three separate return paths, each with a valve, and unless all three valves are at issue, no combination of valves changes the bubble.
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Check each ball vale for thin cracks. I just fixed a suction leak crack on my main drain return ball valve using JB Weld. I have three returns, each with their own ball valve, however the two skimmer returns (on the left side of the attached picture) can be isolated from the main drain return (on right) via a three way valve. Like you just using the ball valves to isolate the suction leak didn't work. But when I closed off the main drain return path using the three way valve the I no longer had a suction leak and my basket fully filled. The crack at first was tough to see, but using my three way valve I was able cycle between open and close on the main drain return and eventually a could see a small amount of water squiring out of the main drain ball valve. I kept the pump running and the main drain return open while globbing on the JB Weld.
 

CountryBoy19

Active member
Mar 22, 2017
43
Bedford, IN
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Sand is brand new as is the lateral assembly. I think I mentioned that in the first post, but I know it was alot of info to digest. Thinking like you, I did a deep clean but when removing the multiport, the main pipe was stuck into the valve and ended up pulling the laterals up enough that one cracked. So long story short, I emptied the sand filter and bought a new lateral assembly. Put new sand in. So sand is clean. My new pressure gauge is due Saturday, so hopefully have a better picture on possible restriction. But unless I did something wrong on adding sand, not sure how it could be filter. I emptied filter, installed lateral assembly, flipped them down, filled half with water, added sand amount according to Hayward manual, which was about 2/3 full.

Curious, is it possible to have too much sand. I would estimate the sand level is about 10 inches below the top...just past the point where the filter begins to narrow towards the top.
I missed that, sorry.

Hmm...I wonder if maybe the restriction of the sand (even new sand will off some restriction) plus the reduced speed of the pump is just enough to allow a bubble to form, but in recirc it's just enough to stop it?

That's the only thing I can think of...
 

robertmee

Well-known member
Jun 26, 2015
371
Raleigh
View attachment 341221View attachment 341222

Check each ball vale for thin cracks. I just fixed a suction leak crack on my main drain return ball valve using JB Weld. I have three returns, each with their own ball valve, however the two skimmer returns (on the left side of the attached picture) can be isolated from the main drain return (on right) via a three way valve. Like you just using the ball valves to isolate the suction leak didn't work. But when I closed off the main drain return path using the three way valve the I no longer had a suction leak and my basket fully filled. The crack at first was tough to see, but using my three way valve I was able cycle between open and close on the main drain return and eventually a could see a small amount of water squiring out of the main drain ball valve. I kept the pump running and the main drain return open while globbing on the JB Weld.

Thanks for another data point. Just to eliminate possibilities, I'll probably install new valves, since one is a pain in the Rear to turn anyway.
 

Metron9

Member
May 25, 2021
12
Minnesota
To solve the bubble but not solve the original reason for the bubble you can use a small tube perhaps 1/8 inch stainless steel bent to a U shape where one end is positioned at the very top of the bubble touching the clear cover and going into the pipe that exits the basket. The suction from the water passing the tube will draw out the air continuously while the pump is running. At least I think the physics of that solution will work, at least give it a try.
 

IUsedToSail

Bronze Supporter
Jul 22, 2020
85
Maryland
To solve the bubble but not solve the original reason for the bubble you can use a small tube perhaps 1/8 inch stainless steel bent to a U shape where one end is positioned at the very top of the bubble touching the clear cover and going into the pipe that exits the basket. The suction from the water passing the tube will draw out the air continuously while the pump is running. At least I think the physics of that solution will work, at least give it a try.

I'm going to try building a "snorkel" like that. I get a golf or tennis ball size bubble when running at lower speeds for 3-4 hours. I currently have my pump set to take a 1 minute break in the afternoon which forces it to run the prime cycle. It's probably not necessary but emotionally, it feels very fulfilling. ;-)
 
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