Proper location for new SWG

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This from the Circupool installation guide
 

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Here's the wiring diagram for the Intermatic T-104 timer (208-277 volts). Terminals 1 and 3 are Line 1 and Line 2 from the breaker. Terminals 2 and 4 are Load 1 and Load 2 to the SWG controller. Remove the black cover off the bottom of the timer to expose the terminals.


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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Here's the wiring diagram for the Intermatic T-104 timer (208-277 volts). Terminals 1 and 3 are Line 1 and Line 2 from the breaker. Terminals 2 and 4 are Load 1 and Load 2 to the SWG controller. Remove the black cover off the bottom of the timer to expose the terminals.


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Thank you. Yes, With the help of my electrician friend, I located 2 and 4 as the load side and will be patching to those, and the ground to the ground bar in on of the photos.
 
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All patched up and ready to go. I have the plumber coming back out tomorrow to patch this connection that is leaking. Meanwhile its not enough leak That I can’t my chemistry. One last call to be sure that Morton’s pool salt is good quality and doesn't have metals on it like the Clorox Brand. About to add about 140 lbs of Morton’s Professional’s Choice Pool Salt to bring my salt up to 3500ppm. Good to go with this?
 

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Confirmed, same as 4 days ago: 12 drops=2400. added 120 lbs of salt and should put me around 3200 and will test from there. I held back the 4th bag, of which I was going to use 3/4.
 
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geh said:
Confirmed, same as 4 days ago: 12 drops=2400. added 120 lbs of salt and should put me around 3200 and will test from there. I held back the 4th bag, of which I was going to use 3/4.
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What do you know! That 120 lbs of salt yielded me exactly 3200 as planned. One of the first times an added amount nailed the projected result. Screenshot below shows my numbers out the box. The TA and the CH I borrowed from previous readings. I will work on the CYA tomorrow. I can tweak the salt upward later as the chemistry levels stabilize and the salt fully dissolves, if it hasn't already. Is there any empirical data about time required for salt to dissolve, and dancing in your pool for 3 hours at night drinking a bottle of champagne to accelerate the absorption, because I am pretty sure that dissolved everything. The water tasted salty and it felt nice on the skin.
 

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Why does the pool school recommended levels call for ideal CYA to be 70-80 for a plaster and salt pool, when it was 40-50 for my same pool before adding the SWG? The Circupool manual calls for 30-50. I am prepared to raise it, just curious what the science or thinking is behind it.
 
geh said:
Is there any empirical data about time required for salt to dissolve, and dancing in your pool for 3 hours at night drinking a bottle of champagne to accelerate the absorption, because I am pretty sure that dissolved everything. The water tasted salty and it felt nice on the skin.
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It generally takes a day or two of pump cycles for the salt to dissolve completely. Science has shown that champagne dance parties accelerate the process by 25%-40% depending on the number of people involved.
geh said:
Why does the pool school recommended levels call for ideal CYA to be 70-80 for a plaster and salt pool, when it was 40-50 for my same pool before adding the SWG? The Circupool manual calls for 30-50. I am prepared to raise it, just curious what the science or thinking is behind it.
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I don't think there's a truly scientific explanation. Try raising your CYA to the lower end of the range (60 ppm) and work from there based on daily FC loss.

Here's what @JoyfulNoise says about SWG/CYA recommendations:

As alluded to above, real world pool owners that follow the TFP recommended level of having their minimum FC be 5% of their CYA level have found that higher CYA levels leads to less overall daily loss rates of chlorine and thus means running their SWG at lower output. There isn’t a lot of scientific literature (data) to back up the proposed theories as to why that is other than all of the anecdotal evidence TFP has amassed over the years. The higher levels of CYA just simply lead to more stable FC values. Since SWG’s have a finite operational life (roughly 8000 to 10,000 hours of chlorine generating time), running the cell in the most efficient manner prolongs it’s overall life. A properly maintained pool should give an SWG owner about 8-10 years of useful life.​
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In my own personal experience over the last 9 years I have found that as long as my CYA is above 70, I notice no excessive use of my SWG. As soon as my CYA drops to 60 or below, I start to have to increase my output % to maintain the same FC levels. I add CYA two times per year - once in early spring after the winter is over and right around mid-July. The sun is intense enough here that CYA naturally degrades and so I always know to check my CYA whenever my SWG starts needing higher output.​
 
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How can I upload a video form my iPhone to this thread? I have a leak in the new install. The plumber came by and said I'd likely have to have a pool company come to re-plumb everything since all the connections are cemented and close to each other. He said "maybe" if I use some epoxy puddy to plug around the joint I might be able to get the leak to stop, or reduce it to a drip. Any thoughts?
 
Here is the leak. Can use some help on this. Does some JB Weld type epoxy putty sound like a good last ditch effort before I call in a pool guy or the Cajun Navy?

 
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Also, I started a new pool in Pool Math, since I converted to SWG. Old one is Murlesan, new one is Murlesan Salt. How can I get the Murlesan Salt to be viewable from my TFP profile instead of the old Murlesan one?
 
geh said:
Here is the leak. Can use some help on this. Does some JB Weld type epoxy putty sound like a good last ditch effort before I call in a pool guy or the Cajun Navy?

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Looks like it's coming from the fitting he re-used. I think you said he used a socket-saver type tool (one that cuts the old pipe out). I haven't tried those, I've always done the torch & 2" hole saw method & never had an issue. But it certainly looks like that fitting didn't re-weld very well.

You can shut everything down, get the water out & get it nice and dry, then try some JB-Weld on that joint. I can't guarantee it will hold, but it has saved my butt a couple of times when there was just an itty-bitty leak and 2 fittings were too close. That looks like more than an itty-bitty leak though.

The close-welded connections were one of my concerns when you first posted photos of your pad. (I have some like that too--from a younger me trying to be overzealous in making it neat & using the fewest fittings possible).
 

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