Proper Filter Run Time When Cycle is Interrupted

NY Smokeater

Silver Supporter
Jul 25, 2018
21
Commack, NY
Kind of an odd ball question but I'm looking for some advice.

I try to run the filter when I know the kids will not be in the pool. After some chemistry issues last season, I learned that we needed to run the filter more during the day light hours and for a longer period of time. Prior to this, I was running it at night or early in the morning. This was at the advice of the local pool store, who have been pretty solid with guidance about the pool. If I recall, we were burning off any salt/chlorine that was created overnight within the early morning hours when the sun rose.

I set the filter to run for 5 hours. The pool is being used at times I'm not able to complete the full cycle. How are others running their filters and at what time? Do I try the nighttime hours again, when it's less likely to be interrupted? I have the standard timer on the SWG set to run for 5 hours but do not have an auto-on timer set up.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
20,288
Laughlin, NV
Your SWCG must create the amount of chlorine you need each day. When it does that, does not really matter.

How are you testing your pool water chemistry?
 

NY Smokeater

Silver Supporter
Jul 25, 2018
21
Commack, NY
This is all still new to me so I'm learning. My salt levels were pretty good throughout the season and just before the end of the season, my salt was a little low. It was also after a few days of pretty decent rain. I did need UV protector and pH down a little more frequently than I would have thought. One of the solutions was to run the SWG during the day.

I was bringing a water sample to the pool store. I recently receieved my kit in the maiI so I can do my own testing now. I know it's frowned upon to bring it to the store but it was not a Leslie's and they were never pushing products on me. Always seemed genuine. Then again, I'm surely no expert lol

I have only tested the water one time and that was about a week ago. My salt was a little high as was my pH. I added a pound of pH down shortly afyer but have not re-tested it yet. I was preparing to do it but wanted to ask for some advice before I forgot again.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
20,288
Laughlin, NV
Can you post a full set of test results from your test kit? Add what kit you are using to your signature.
Salt level only matters such that the SWCG is happy and making chlorine. You need to set it up so that it makes enough chlorine each day to cover your FC losses each day.
 

NY Smokeater

Silver Supporter
Jul 25, 2018
21
Commack, NY
Please bare with me as this is the 1st time I've tested the water on my own. I realize this is not the correct thread for this and I will be heading over to the proper forum and blog to read up on testing.

FC 2
CC 2
TC 4
Salt 3,800 ppm (which is high)
pH 7.8
CH 75
TA 80
CYA 0? I tested twice and the black dot never disappeared
I used the K-1000 to test and added the Orthotolidine drops and it did not change color at all. Is this simply for chlorine only pools?

Did I miss anything testing wise?

Edit: The pool water is Crystal clear as well.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
20,288
Laughlin, NV
No need to start a new thread. All your information is here.

The CC is quite high. How does your water look?
Did this water have CYA in it before? Have you added any since opening the pool this spring?
 
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NY Smokeater

Silver Supporter
Jul 25, 2018
21
Commack, NY
Thank you mknauss.

The CC may actually be 1. If I recall, I was waiting for a more bold color change and marked it on the higher side. The water is Crystal clear. No slimy feeling in the water.

No CYA before or since the pool was opened.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
20,288
Laughlin, NV
OK -- then add 30 ppm CYA using the sock method. Follow the FC/CYA Chart for a CYA of 30 ppm until you test it. Wait at least 24 hours after the CYA is fully dissolved before testing your CYA.
 
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NY Smokeater

Silver Supporter
Jul 25, 2018
21
Commack, NY
Many thanks for the guidance.

Few questions:
  • The pool is currently safe to swim in despite the need for CYA, correct? I just want to be sure
  • Should the sock be placed opposite the filter?
  • Can the filter run during the time the CYA is being released?
 

Teald024

TFP Guide
Hello and Welcome to TFP!

The CYA helps protect the chlorine from breakdown by the Sun’s UV. The FC is what makes the pool “safe” to swim in.

Since you have an Intex pool, it may be difficult, but hand the sock so that the water coming back into the pool passes over/through/past the sock. Hang it from the brush pole on a string. If the kids are in the pool, they can swim around with the sock in hand if they want, lol.

Yes, you should always run the filter/pump when adding chemicals. And the method we recommend to add CYA uses the pool water return to help dissolve the CYA quicker.

The Orthotolidine (OTO) test does test for total chlorine. If the color didn’t change to a shade of yellow, then there isn’t much, if any chlorine in the water.
Let me tell you a little secret. You have a chlorine pool! It is just simply a pool that uses saltier water and a chlorine generator (SWG) so that you don’t have to manually add the daily chlorine. The SWG does it for you.
 
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NY Smokeater

Silver Supporter
Jul 25, 2018
21
Commack, NY
lol valid point I suppose. I guess when I have more control over the outcome of the water quality and dealing with "chemicals" makes think twice about it. Isn't lake water more "natural?" haha ;)
 
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NY Smokeater

Silver Supporter
Jul 25, 2018
21
Commack, NY
The Orthotolidine (OTO) test does test for total chlorine. If the color didn’t change to a shade of yellow, then there isn’t much, if any chlorine in the water.
Let me tell you a little secret. You have a chlorine pool! It is just simply a pool that uses saltier water and a chlorine generator (SWG) so that you don’t have to manually add the daily chlorine. The SWG does it for you.
Thank you for the welcome.

I came back to re-read this thread and missed this the 1st time. What I'm missing is that the salt test showed my salt levels a little high but the OTO test shows little to no chlorine. Could this be a lack of CYA or is there something else I need to look into? Could this be user error? Lol

This is certainly a learning curve for me. I greatly appreciate the patience and time you all spend on here helping people, like me, who are ignorant to the in's and outs of pool care.
 

Teald024

TFP Guide
Thank you for the welcome.

I came back to re-read this thread and missed this the 1st time. What I'm missing is that the salt test showed my salt levels a little high but the OTO test shows little to no chlorine. Could this be a lack of CYA or is there something else I need to look into? Could this be user error? Lol
The OTO test is fairly foolproof. If it isn’t yellow, then there is minimal chlorine in the pool.
There can be the perfect amount of salt for the SWG, but still no chlorine. A few reasons come to mind. One is the SWG is not working. Second is the sun is destroying the chlorine due to low CYA. The third is organic matter (algae) is consuming the chlorine faster than the SWG can make it.
You said the CYA is low and this may be the culprit. Before you add CYA, we should check some other things first.
We can help you figure it out but a couple of questions first.
How much CYA was in the pool when you closed it? What does the pool water look like.
Post back and we can try a few things
 

NY Smokeater

Silver Supporter
Jul 25, 2018
21
Commack, NY
I figure being new to testing my own water, it wouldn't be out of the ordinary if I messed up or looked at things incorrectly. Just wanted to be honest and throw that out there...

The pool was taken down after last season. Living in the Northeast, I didn't want to chance leaving the pool up with a harsh winter.

Ive already begun adding the CYA. It should be finished dispensing tonight. I did not have my own test kit last year to check the water but anytime I brought it to a reputable pool store, they said the water was good. The pool store sampled my water about 3 weeks before closing and said it looked fine. Last year, I had a small algae issue before closing the pool. I wound up draining it and taking it down. Before packing it away, I threw baking soda in it to absorb any moisture that built up.

When opening it this year, I vacuumed up most of the heavier mounds of baking soda. I filled it with some residue on the pool floor and walls. There was no evidence of algae on the walls or the floor of the pool.

Its unknown what the CYA was at the end of last season. Currently, the water is crystal clear. No sliminess on the walls or the floor and everything "seems" alright. No complaints of eye or skin irritation from the kids.

Let me know if there is anything else needed and as always, thank you!
 

Teald024

TFP Guide
Ok, got it. That info helps. Since it is new water this year, it doesn’t matter about last year’s test results. We can throw out some potential issues as not applicable.
Fresh water has zero CYA. So I’d continue getting the CYA in the water. Then use bleach to raise the FC to the proper level based on the FC/CYA Chart. Bleach is used to get the FC up quick. The SWG is slow at making chlorine so it is better to get to the initial FC with bleach/liquid chlorine.
Once the CYA is fully dissolved, I’d recommend doing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This test will help us see if you have organic stuff in the water that is using up the chlorine. It is done overnight to take the Sun’s UV out of the equation. Then any FC loss can be attributed to organic stuff.
 
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Aubie99

Bronze Supporter
Jun 14, 2017
53
Columbus, GA
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NY...here's something that may be of help once you have your water balanced. It's a tool that will calculate your SWG run time based on a few inputs. Based on using my normal FC loss/day of 2.5ppm (in Columbus, GA) and the info on your pool (5000 gal Intex with the ECO15110 SWG), the calculator is saying the minimum run time at 100% SWG output is 6.8hrs to replace 2.5ppm of FC/day. The ECO15110 produces max 7g Cl2/hr (from spec sheet) or 0.3696 lbs Cl2/day. You can play around with the FC loss/day and based on testing and dial your run time in. See attached link SWG Run Time Calculator
 
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Aubie99

Bronze Supporter
Jun 14, 2017
53
Columbus, GA
@mknauss, thanks for the info. I'm not seeing this on the app. I see where I can select my SWG in settings under my pool and it auto populates the lbs/day of FC for my SWG, but where is the info for recommended run time and avg FC loss/day? Thanks