ProLogic 4/Hayward T-Cell 9 showing "Chlorinator Off Test Salt Level"

[Optimolachi]

Hi guys,
I saw the exact same symptom in another thread but just realized it's an old thread. I'm running a Hayward ProLogic 4 with a T-Cell 9 but the SWG always shuts off. When I reset it in the Diagnostic menu, it will turn on for about 30 seconds then shut off again with the "Chlorinator Off Test Salt Level" error. I thought my previous cell finally died since it's over 8 years old so I went and bought a new one but same error. There is tons of salt in the pool, actually way too much now because I added 3 bags initially when I saw the low salt message. Based on the test strip it's sitting at ~4000 ppm. All suggestions very appreciated.

The message on the display after I reset it is:
+25.32V +5.30A
128ºF 2300 PPM

 

[JamesW]

The water temperature is showing as 128 degrees?

That will throw off the salt reading.

Did the old cell read the temperature correctly?

Is the cell type in configuration correct?

 

[Optimolachi]

The water temperature is showing as 128 degrees?

That will throw off the salt reading.

Did the old cell read the temperature correctly?

Is the cell type in configuration correct?

Edit: fixing my confusion with the temp.

Thanks for your reply. I totally didn't notice that odd temperature reading. The pool is set to 78º and the heating function is working as expected and when I go to the details screen it's showing the correct water temperature and the heater automatically shuts off once it reaches 78°. I'll plug in the old cell again tomorrow to see if the temperature in the diagnostic screen is also showing 128ºF. I never touched the configuration since the previous SWG is the same TCell9 that I just bought. When I cycle through my configuration menu says "Configuration - Locked" and doesn't let me see any options. Does this mean I've got a problem with the controller?

 

[JamesW]

Is the temperature with the heater on or off?

Since the cell is after the heater, the temperature will be higher while the heater is on.

Note that the temperature in the cell while the heater is on should never be more than 16 degrees higher than the water temperature.

 

[Optimolachi]

It looks like the SWG appears to be working again. At the very least the control panel hasn't shut it down. The display is showing:

+25.30V +5.29A
125ºF 2400 PPM

The heater is off and the pool water is currently 78º. When I touch the SWG it feels cool to the touch so I don't know why it's showing such a high temp.

 

[JamesW]

The high temperature reading is causing the salinity reading to be inaccurate.

Turn production off and unplug the cell and plug in the old cell to see if the temperature is correct. No need to install the cell in the plumbing, just in the air is ok.

If the temperature is still high, the circuit board is probably bad. If the temperature is accurate, the temperature sensor in the new cell is probably bad.

Is the new cell a genuine Hayward or generic?

 

[Optimolachi]

I powered off the system, plugged in the old cell and powered back on. Same readings. The new cell is a genuine Hayward TCell9. I've seen some YouTube videos of the salinity being recalibrated but it wasn't for my unit and I can't seem to find any instructions for my unit online. If that temperature reading stays constant would it be fine if I either recalibrate the salinity value or add salt and make the system happy? I will bring some water to a local store and have them test it to get some accurate numbers.

 

[JamesW]

If the temperature reading from both cells is the same, that would point to a problem with the circuit board.

Unless you know how to repair circuit boards, you will probably need to replace the circuit board.

You could change the cell type to T-5 or T-3 to make the salinity reading more accurate, but I don't recommend it.

If the temperature reading gets to 140 degrees, it will say "Chlorinator Off High Temperature".

 

[Optimolachi]

I think you're right that it's a problem with the circuit board If this was a common problem with the boards and there was a documented fix I'd give it a shot but it looks like it's time for a new board.

 

[JamesW]

It's not a common problem.

 

[Optimolachi]

So I ended up being able to hobble along by building an extension cable and cutting out the thermistor leads. At first I tried placing a 10k resistor like some have suggested, but it was still showing a whacked out reading of 123° and shutting down the cell. I then tried various other resistance levels with the best results being a 56k resistor dropping the temp reading down to 106°. Realizing that the sensor on the main board is likely pooched and there was probably no way to trick it into dropping down to the pool temp of around 80° I ended up just cutting out the resistor altogether which gave a temp reading of 100°. At that temp the cell is still functioning but of course the salinity reading is off. I'm manually testing and adjusting for that now. When the off season comes I will take the board out and ship it to the repair guys recommended in the T-Cell thread.