Problems at closing the pool.

[tk3000]

Hello Folks,

I bought a house with an in-ground pool in April of this year (2024). Initially, pool was in bad shape (in part due to my negligence) -- mostly green with algae bloom, dirty and with debris at the bottom. After a long battle and learning curve, I managed to get pool back to normal (crystal clear water).

Due to be absent often, I decided to put a winter cover early one – about 3 months ago. Have programmable device that would turn the pump 3 times a week for 8 hours (given that the pool was covered). Pics below:









Previous to closing it (about 3 months ago), I superchlorinated it with liquid chlorine, and a week afterwards add 3” clorox chlorinated tablets to the chlorinator next to the pump.

Problem be that while away there has been some water evaporation, and the water was below the skimmer line. So, the pump was running dry -- at least in part, given that the valve was turned ¾ towards the skimmer and ¼ towards the main drain. Maybe the pump went south.

About two weeks ago, I decide to start a proper winterization process (did not finish it yet). The water line was few inches below the skimmer. Even with the valve turned all the way towards the main drain (skimmer should be off?), it did not pump any water even after several attempts (and I tried to add water to the pump basket to no avail, even though those pumps should be self-priming). Once the back cover of the pump was removed, I noticed that the shaft of the pump was turning at high speed; but, the pump failed to pump any water from the main drain. Should I assume that the pump is bad?

Overall, the water and pool itself was still clean and very clear. Ph was at 7.5. Alkalinity, on the high side, at about 240. Calcium hardness was rather low (at about 100). To my surpside the chlorine level was at 3 or 4. Did not check the CYA and did not check the combine chlorine.

Any input and insights would be appreciated.

 

[ajw22]

I would not decide on the condition of the pump until you get water in the skimmers.

Many pools main drain does not work alone without some skimmer suction.

Winterize and lower the water level using a Submersible Pumps - Further Reading and then open early and see what the condition of your pump is when the water is at the proper level in the skimmer.

 

[tk3000]

I would not decide on the condition of the pump until you get water in the skimmers.

Many pools main drain does not work alone without some skimmer suction.

Winterize and lower the water level using a Submersible Pumps - Further Reading and then open early and see what the condition of your pump is when the water is at the proper level in the skimmer.

Oddly enough, I did reply few days ago, but apparently my post disappeared from the thread. Below:

==

Few days ago, I ended up lowering the water level further (below the return jets) using a cover pump I have. It took a few hours, but it worked ok. Now, the water level now is right below the two return jets, and well below the skimmer line. Does that sounds good enough?

Few weeks ago, I also tried to blow the lines with an air compressor. Probably went overboard with the PSI (at or below 40PSI), hopefully no harm was done. Problem be that it was a too small pancake style air-compressor (the tank run out of air pretty quick). Next time, I will use a 20 gallons larger air-compressor (regulated to a lower psi output). Back then, I disconnected the plugs from the pump (two), from the sand filter (one; left it off for over 24 hours) and from the heater (one) in order to drain; put the sand filter multi port on recirculating mode; attached the air compressor hose to the pump port (with a regular ¼ ntp filtting). It did purge -- at least -- some of water out of the return lines (at least one of them as far as I could see), but the air-compressor was too anemic due to its small tank. I would imagine that a larger air-compressor take care of that type of job, albeit operating a fairly low psi. Would it be ok to plug one of the return lines jets, while the other return jet is unplugged to more effective purge water from the second return jet?

Also, when I first bought the house (right after the winter), the plumbing were all disconnected and the pipes next to the pump were plugged. Is that really required in most situations?


(old pic of when I bought the house)

Often, it seems that people typically removes the drain plugs to drain (heater, pump, sand filter) and then purge the line with an air-compressor. Also, I don't see how a vacuum lock could be created at the main drain if the valve above is disconnected from the skimmer and main drain line.

Thanks!