Pressure side plumbed to sewer?

[Zalligan]

Hello All,

Quick question for the group. Purchased a house a year ago with our first pool. Have gotten a grasp on chemistry and my equipment pad, with the exception of one 3-way valve, right after the filter. I'm wondering if it is common/you all think that this may connect directly to sewer for purposes of draining the pool? It's an unmarked pipe off of a manual 3way valve immediately after the filter outlet coupling. Pics below. Any way to determine where this goes? It goes back down into the ground between my suction side piping.

 

[mas985]

It definitely could be for draining the pool although they are normally put before the filter and not after. Also, drain lines are not always connected to the sewer lines but some cities require that.

One way to confirm is to open the valve and see if the pool level starts to drop.

 

[1poolman1]

Hello All,

Quick question for the group. Purchased a house a year ago with our first pool. Have gotten a grasp on chemistry and my equipment pad, with the exception of one 3-way valve, right after the filter. I'm wondering if it is common/you all think that this may connect directly to sewer for purposes of draining the pool? It's an unmarked pipe off of a manual 3way valve immediately after the filter outlet coupling. Pics below. Any way to determine where this goes? It goes back down into the ground between my suction side piping.

You're going to need to replace that heat-damaged plumbing on the outlet of the heater along with the RayPak union that attaches to the header.

 

[JamesW]

You need to give the heater a cooldown period.

You should probably just let the pump run continuously.

You can schedule a faster speed for heating and then drop to a lower speed when not heating so that the pump never turns off.

Is the system above the pool or at the same level?

 

[JamesW]

You can program the EasyTouch to increase the pump speed when the heater has a Call for Heat.

Other than heating, you can run the pump at a low speed, like maybe 1500 rpm, as long as it is enough to close the SWG flow switch.

 

[JamesW]

Is this a check valve after the heater?

If yes, it is a high head loss check valve and you should remove it or replace it with a Jandy check valve, which has lower head loss.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Z,

Since you don't have a tab feeder, you don't really need a check valve after the heater at all...

A lot of cities in our area require the backwash valve for DE and Sand Filter be plumbed into the sewer.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Zalligan]

Appreciate the guidance ya'll. House came with the pool, been here about a year and always wondered about that heater pipe - it's so perfectly formed I always assumed it was meant to be that way. Guess that's what I get for assuming. Obviously it needs fixing for the longer term, but any harm in just monitoring to make sure it doesn't get any worse? Think the heater isn't long for life (8 years old) - every time I bump it rust rains out of the bottom. That said, it doesn't leak, and still works.

Equipment pad is just a hair about pool level - maybe a foot or so.

Re: Pump speeds - I run it 24x7 at just enough rpm to trip the SWCG +50rpm. Rarely use the heater - pretty much only to heat the spa, and have that programmed to run at high rpm.

@Jimrahbe appreciate the area specific knowledge. I'm thinking this pool probably started life as a chlorine pool with sand/de filter and at some point got converted to salt/cartridge, so that would explain the check valve and filter being plummed in.