Post Flood Cleaning

[Texas Splash]

Leslies suggests Clear Aid to bind the fine silt together to help the filter catch it. Thoughts?

Run! Don't look back. Seriously, many of those so-called "Aids" generally are glorified clarifiers or forms of floc that you really don't want in your water or filter media. If you had a multiport valve set-up and the water was heavily inundated with mud, then we might suggest vacuuming to waste followed by something else to help-maybe. Kind of rare though. But your large filter will capture all the residual dirt, dust, etc. It will just take some time. Keep brushing and watch your FC level to ensure organics don't try to make a new home in there. You might even consider taking your FC up 3-4 additional ppm overnight without competition from the sun to help fight organics - just in case.

PS - More rain coming? Ugh. Hopefully not all at once.

 

[mknauss]

Clear Aid is a clarifier - which is glue. As you have a cartridge filter, you cannot vac to waste.
Up to you, it will gum up your filter. It might speed things along a touch quicker, but it may also require you to replace your cartridges after using it.

 

[mah2496]

Run! Don't look back. Seriously, many of those so-called "Aids" generally are glorified clarifiers or forms of floc that you really don't want in your water or filter media. If you had a multiport valve set-up and the water was heavily inundated with mud, then we might suggest vacuuming to waste followed by something else to help-maybe. Kind of rare though. But your large filter will capture all the residual dirt, dust, etc. It will just take some time. Keep brushing and watch your FC level to ensure organics don't try to make a new home in there. You might even consider taking your FC up 3-4 additional ppm overnight without competition from the sun to help fight organics - just in case.

PS - More rain coming? Ugh. Hopefully not all at once.

Glad I asked. My FC was zero so I added the recommended 128 oz per pool math calc. Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

My FC was zero so I added the recommended 128 oz per pool math calc. Thanks!

I suspect all that junk from Thurs-Fri is consuming your FC. It's good you bumped it up. Now that you know it crashed however, I would watch it more closely in the next 24 hrs. Keep it on the high end of your target range on the FC/CYA Levels. If it crashes like that again, you may need to start thinking about a SLAM Process, or at the very least doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Something to monitor.

 

[mah2496]

Cleaned my filters today. Although they certainly were not clean, I honestly expected them to be much dirtier. My psi still showed 4-5 on 2500 rpm before I removed them for cleaning.

 

[Texas Splash]

Yeah, but they look MUCH better. Isn't it amazing how much heavier those carts are before cleaning? In any case, you might be surprised how much of a positive impact that has on your progress. Good you did it.

 

[mah2496]

Ive got most of the dirt out of the water. My FC is zero, salt cell showing 900 ppm,
and water has a tiny hint of green tint. Should I slam pool or just add salt and bleach? If slam is needed, should I get salt up to 3100-3200 before I slam?

 

[Texas Splash]

Ive got most of the dirt out of the water. My FC is zero, salt cell showing 900 ppm,
and water has a tiny hint of green tint. Should I slam pool or just add salt and bleach? If slam is needed, should I get salt up to 3100-3200 before I slam?

That sounds like algae. Rats! Time to go to the SLAM Process page. Hopefully you caught it soon enough that it won't take too terribly long. Still, be diligent in the instructions and maintain the proper SLAM/FC level for your current CYA. Just leave the SWG off while you SLAM. After you pass all 3 SLAM criteria, you can confirm salt levels and fine-tune SWG/pump run times.

 

[mah2496]

Okay. Checked my PH and CYA to prepare for SLAM. PH was 7.8 so I'll let it ride. CYA appeared to be zero, as the dot in the bottom of the test/view tube did not disappear when I filled it up. From what I read, I need to get the CYA up to 70-80 before I start to SLAM, but let me know if that is incorrect.

What is the preferred method to add a lot of Stabilizer to water to increase CYA?

 

[mknauss]

Only take your CYA to 30 ppm prior to SLAM. Use a sock or two with enough CYA granules in them for 30 ppm and put them in the skimmer.

Be sure to lower your pH to 7.2 prior to starting the SLAM.

 

[Texas Splash]

Agreed - CYA only to 30 so that your FC SLAM level will be lower. FC/CYA Levels You should also lower the pH to about 7.2 (orange) before increasing the FC.

Adding CYA:

To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[mah2496]

Now that I have PH and CYA right what shock level should I do? 30 CYA is only listed for non salt pools.

 

[ajw22]

Now that I have PH and CYA right what shock level should I do? 30 CYA is only listed for non salt pools.

Use FC of 12 with CYA 30. Shock level is the sane for all pools.