Possible New Pool In Central FL

Depends greatly on your climate, rainfall, temperature of pool water versus overnight air temperature, etc.
 
So just an update from today... I completed my at home test and the FC was way up there (12.5), CC was .5 or less, the Ph was up there 7.9 and the alkalinity was 110. I recorded all this in pool math but I have added 2 cups of acid and turned on the water features per the recommendation to try to bring the Ph and TA down. I had the SWG set at 40% from the spreadsheet with the pump running for 6 hours but I just decreased it to 20%.

I did add a non-chlorine oxidizer after my in store test (at a new company) to try to drop the CC down to zero (was at like .32). I don't know if this affected the FC but it wasn't supposed to. The new place I took the water runs and electronic analysis and not the one where you add the chemicals.

I did have another question my salt level test isn't matching the Icholor nor the pool store test.
- Icholor: 2800 PPM
- Pool Store (1/8/2021): 3000 PPM
- At home (1/10/2021): 3400 PPM

Do I trust my home test or the Pentair system?
 
For salt listen to your SWG system. If it is happy then it is all good!

Those computer readers are worse than drop tests as most of them are not calibrated when needed :(

Sorry are you saying to trust the number and I should add salt or wait for it to throw a low salt error?
 
Sorry another question.... On my feature pump while the pool pump is running if I take it above 3150 Rpm I get a rattling type noise. I'm not sure if this is normal or not but if I drop it to 3150 it goes away.

If the pool pump is off it makes the noise at 3350 rpm and goes away at 3250. I don't know if it's the check value or what but it almost sounds like it might be a bearing although I'm not sure why the 2 pumps would make a difference.

My pool pump doesn't make this noise.... Guess I'll be calling for warranty service unless anyone here has another idea (maybe check valve?)
 
So just an update from today... I completed my at home test and the FC was way up there (12.5), CC was .5 or less, the Ph was up there 7.9 and the alkalinity was 110. I recorded all this in pool math but I have added 2 cups of acid and turned on the water features per the recommendation to try to bring the Ph and TA down. I had the SWG set at 40% from the spreadsheet with the pump running for 6 hours but I just decreased it to 20%.

I did add a non-chlorine oxidizer after my in store test (at a new company) to try to drop the CC down to zero (was at like .32). I don't know if this affected the FC but it wasn't supposed to. The new place I took the water runs and electronic analysis and not the one where you add the chemicals.

I did have another question my salt level test isn't matching the Icholor nor the pool store test.
- Icholor: 2800 PPM
- Pool Store (1/8/2021): 3000 PPM
- At home (1/10/2021): 3400 PPM

Do I trust my home test or the Pentair system?

I'm going to repeat my at home test tomorrow cause I'm wondering if maybe I forgot to divide the chlorine drops or something 12.5 seems way up there.
 
Sorry another question.... On my feature pump while the pool pump is running if I take it above 3150 Rpm I get a rattling type noise. I'm not sure if this is normal or not but if I drop it to 3150 it goes away.

If the pool pump is off it makes the noise at 3350 rpm and goes away at 3250. I don't know if it's the check value or what but it almost sounds like it might be a bearing although I'm not sure why the 2 pumps would make a difference.

My pool pump doesn't make this noise.... Guess I'll be calling for warranty service unless anyone here has another idea (maybe check valve?)

Is the pump bolted down to the pad? Could be just rattling if it's not bolted down. My old pump was not, they aren't going anywhere with the pipes connecting, but can rattle. That would be my first check.
 

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Is the pump bolted down to the pad? Could be just rattling if it's not bolted down. My old pump was not, they aren't going anywhere with the pipes connecting, but can rattle. That would be my first check.

I'm pretty sure it is but I'll double check tomorrow
 
So another question.... Is SLAMing the best way to drop the CC to zero? I don't have green water or a bad FC number but the CC's are higher than I would like >.5.

From the procedure it looks like I should raise the CYA to approx 70-80, drop the Ph, then add the bleach to get the FC high enough. Am I understanding this right? Once the CC's have dropped to zero do you just naturally allow the pool to return to normal levels?
 
No cover and no screen. FC has been high for a little while.

Here is my latest pool math test
 

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What is your CC?

Turn on the slider to track CCs in PM.
 
Sorry it's on but the summary page doesn't show it. I know it's probably less than 1 and there are 2 tests today (mine and a pool store). Included a couple so you can see a few tests
 

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I would not worry about a CC of 1 or less.

I would also not mix pool store tests in your PM logs. It just confuses evaluating the trends.
 
Well the propane company finally came out yesterday to "finish" their installation for our fire bowls and future summer kitchen. Unfortunately I had to travel for work so I wasn't on site and fully regret it. I came home and immediately found a dozen things wrong with their installation of the lines and regulators and I'm really not sure what the person who was installing this stuff was thinking or how it would be acceptable. To top it off the "stake" that is randomly in the middle of my yard holding one of the regulators can by moved around with a pinky. Horribly horribly shotty work and now it's pulling teeth to get someone to come out and look at it.
 

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