Pool start up wetedge signature matrix ( day three) cloudy, bubbles on surface

[Tom09]

Hello, I was looking at wetedge’s startup guide, https://wetedgetechnologies.com/files/28_Start_Up_Instructions_07_16_1.pdf

It’s stating to use orenda sc-1000 chelating agent. looking online there isn’t a place that I can find to get it in time. Amazon has it by a third party which should arrive on time. Not sure the reliability of the seller.

We are scheduled to have plaster this weekend. I’ve read @onBalance different startup guides. I feel like I’m over my head right now and stressing.
Everyone has a different method. Is this something I should hire out?

I have my Taylor k2006-c kit and speed stir, I am ready, but feel overwhelmed. I know I should be buying chemicals now.

 

[onBalance]

Please test your tap and fill water and provide that info for the pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness. And find out if there is any iron or copper in the water.

 

[Tom09]

This was done in April from pool store, I will do it with my kit, I did but lost the results. I will retest at store too. Wet edge says use lsi calculation, so I need to do tds test? Not sure pool store does it.

 

[Tom09]

Please test your tap and fill water and provide that info for the pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness. And find out if there is any iron or copper in the water.

Is it best to follow the contractors method and add during the fill instead of after. I also don’t have a vacuum is it something really needed?

 

[onBalance]

The TDS is not a concern. Don't worry about it.
The tap water already has a good high level of alkalinity and a low calcium hardness level,. Therefore, instead of doing a Bicarb startup, following the startup program by Wet Edge will work very well. And yes, add the calcium chloride as the pool fills with water.
A vacuum is not needed if you have a pool cleaner that vacuums automatically.

 

[Tom09]

The TDS is not a concern. Don't worry about it.
The tap water already has a good high level of alkalinity and a low calcium hardness level,. Therefore, instead of doing a Bicarb startup, following the startup program by Wet Edge will work very well. And yes, add the calcium chloride as the pool fills with water.
A vacuum is not needed if you have a pool cleaner that vacuums automatically.

Ok, the CH is all a mess, the 94 is from 4/23, yesterday they said it’s 235. I did a test today and I’ve always struggled with the CH for some reason, I did the 10ml sample and got 375.
My ph test I did is 7.6 which is close to theirs. TA 180 which is almost spot on with their 182.

They show my tds at 4400 but she had trouble with the device and tested their water which was 0. Not quite sure what to to think of that, my city post their results and for 2022 they have it at 598 mg/l

With my calcium such a huge difference what should I do?

 

[ajw22]

Trust your CH test and figure your CH is around 300.

You are seeing why we say pool store tests are just unreliable.

 

[onBalance]

The TDS of tap water is typically around 300 to 800 ppm. It is not going to be 4000 ppm.
I am confident that the city report of a TDS at 600 ppm is accurate, which means it is not a concern. That 600 ppm level of TDS would correlate with the TA at about 180 ppm, and the CH is about 300.
If that is true, then your tap water is quite good for new plaster and startups. Just fill the pool (try to wait a few hours before starting the water), and brush the pool once full. Monitor the pH and keep it below 8.0.

P.S. What does the city report for the alkalinity and calcium levels? It is likely that the calcium content reported needs to be multiplied by 2.5 to give an accurate figure for the calcium hardness. The city report may only cite the "bicarbonate" (alkalinity) level for their tap water. Post that number here.

 

[Tom09]

The TDS of tap water is typically around 300 to 800 ppm. It is not going to be 4000 ppm.
I am confident that the city report of a TDS at 600 ppm is accurate, which means it is not a concern. That 600 ppm level of TDS would correlate with the TA at about 180 ppm, and the CH is about 300.
If that is true, then your tap water is quite good for new plaster and startups. Just fill the pool (try to wait a few hours before starting the water), and brush the pool once full. Monitor the pH and keep it below 8.0.

P.S. What does the city report for the alkalinity and calcium levels? It is likely that the calcium content reported needs to be multiplied by 2.5 to give an accurate figure for the calcium hardness. The city report may only cite the "bicarbonate" (alkalinity) level for their tap water. Post that number here.

I purchased the orenda sc-1000 from the third party based on orenda’s recommendation. Should I use it?

I tested my CH a few times with my kit this morning. The 10ml test is what I should use, right?

I’ve been stressed on trying to figure out what to do. At this point, I don’t need to do anything but fill? Wet edge for contractor states to add sc-1000 in the beginning, is it something I should do?

Also, I haven’t purchased any chemicals, what should I get to have on hand?

I’ve read as you stated to wait before you fill the pull. We are doing the wet edge pebble, which will be poured Saturday and acid washed Sunday. Should I wait after they wash it as well?



I will be watching my meter to gauge my gallons right now we are thinking around 18,500.00 i am just worried about everyone else using water in the house. Any other method to get the gallons? I’ve seen the meters you can hook on the hose but seen they are not that accurate.

I appreciate all the assistance. Is the nylon brush sufficient, they state to have a mixture brush when brushing the pool and have the manual vacuum which I don’t have as previously discussed.

 

[onBalance]

Okay, the city report shows the adjusted numbers for calcium and alkalinity levels as is used by the pool industry. So we know that the TA and CH levels are high enough for filling the pool as is and without any adjustment needed. That is good.
You will need some acid and chlorine. You can add the SC-1000 after the bowl of the pool has been filled.
Is there a pool builder involved with your pool? If not, then you need to read up on and follow the TFP basics information for maintaining the pool water.

 

[Tom09]

Okay, the city report shows the adjusted numbers for calcium and alkalinity levels as is used by the pool industry. So we know that the TA and CH levels are high enough for filling the pool as is and without any adjustment needed. That is good.
You will need some acid and chlorine. You can add the SC-1000 after the bowl of the pool has been filled.
Is there a pool builder involved with your pool? If not, then you need to read up on and follow the TFP basics information for maintaining the pool water.

Orenda says to be in the range of +.3-.3 I tried their calculator and I am right there not fully at the ideal at 0.

The pool store and the city results align with CH, am I doing anything wrong? I tested it a few times. There is no pool builder, I’ve used the pool math calculator before.
Do I start getting into those targets after the 28 day startup?

We are scheduled for plaster around 10-11 tomorrow , they must have one before us. any concern with it being 99 and the. 103 following day?

day one is considered when pool is completely filled, correct? The lsi says pool temp is critical, I only have the built in one to the panel, should I have a floater as well?

 

[onBalance]

For the first two weeks, target for a positive LSI of about +0.3 to +0.5.
After that, try to stay between -0.3 and +0.3.

 

[Tom09]

For the first two weeks, target for a positive LSI of about +0.3 to +0.5.
After that, try to stay between -0.3 and +0.3.

is the internal water sensor sufficient, because it asks for water temp? I still haven’t checked my running water temp.

I ordered two things of chlorine and muriatic acid.

It says I need to bring up my cyanuric acid , should I grab some now as well?

 

[ajw22]

is the internal thermostat sufficient, because it asks for water temp? I still haven’t checked my running water temp.

Internal thermostat in where?

I ordered two things of chlorine and muriatic acid.

You will likely need more then two thing of chlorine. Whatever a thing is.

It says I need to bring up my cyanuric acid , should I grab some now as well?

You planning on adding liquid stabilizer or dry stabilizer? We recommend dry stabilizer.

What day does it say to bring up your CYA?

You will need it eventually.

 

[Tom09]

Internal thermostat in where?

i have the intellicenter it has a water sensor.

You will likely need more then two thing of chlorine. Whatever a thing is.

my apologies, i got two gallons of each, liquid chlorine 10% and muriatic acid, 28-32%, not sure what the package says. I haven't picked it up yet. How much more should i get?

You planning on adding liquid stabilizer or dry stabilizer? We recommend dry stabilizer.

What day does it say to bring up your CYA?

that's a great question, i am doing my research now, but according to, https://wetedgetechnologies.com/files/2022_Startup_Guide_v2022_05.pdf, • Add no more than 30 ppm of cyanuric acid if necessary, on day 4. - Concentrated CYA can cause pigmented finishes to discolor - Chlorine tabs contain CYA

is there anything else that i should have on hand?

 

[ajw22]

i have the intellicenter it has a water sensor.

That is reliable and an accurate water temperature.

my apologies, i got two gallons of each, liquid chlorine 10% and muriatic acid, 28-32%, not sure what the package says. I haven't picked it up yet. How much more should i get?

Your pool will consume about 3-4ppm of FC/day depending on how the sun hits it.

1/2 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will add 2.7ppm to your 18,500 gallon pool.

So you will use 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of liquid chlorine per day. For your first month start up you will probably go through around 20 gallons.

Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

How many trips to the store do you want to do?

that's a great question, i am doing my research now, but according to, https://wetedgetechnologies.com/files/2022_Startup_Guide_v2022_05.pdf, • Add no more than 30 ppm of cyanuric acid if necessary, on day 4. - Concentrated CYA can cause pigmented finishes to discolor - Chlorine tabs contain CYA

OK, CYA added on day 4.

5lbs of dry stabilizer will raise your CYA by 32.

Add the dry stabilizer using the sock method.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

Solid/granular CYA should be placed in a sock and the sock put in the skimmer basket or suspended in front of a pool return. If suspending near a return jet, ensure the sock cannot rest against the pool surface since the granules are acidic and could potentially discolor the surface. After adding CYA you should leave the pump running for 24 hours and not backwash/clean the filter for a week. After soaking for about 30 minutes, squeezing the sock periodically will help it to dissolve faster. Test and dose chemicals in your pool assuming the amount of CYA added is in the pool according to Poolmath. CYA can be tested the day after it is fully dissolved from the sock.

is there anything else that i should have on hand?

After 30 days you will need about 14 40lbs bags of salt to get your SWG going.

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Tom09]

That is reliable and an accurate water temperature.



Your pool will consume about 3-4ppm of FC/day depending on how the sun hits it.

1/2 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will add 2.7ppm to your 18,500 gallon pool.

So you will use 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of liquid chlorine per day. For your first month start up you will probably go through around 20 gallons.

Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

How many trips to the store do you want to do?


OK, CYA added on day 4.

5lbs of dry stabilizer will raise your CYA by 32.

Add the dry stabilizer using the sock method.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

Solid/granular CYA should be placed in a sock and the sock put in the skimmer basket or suspended in front of a pool return. If suspending near a return jet, ensure the sock cannot rest against the pool surface since the granules are acidic and could potentially discolor the surface. After adding CYA you should leave the pump running for 24 hours and not backwash/clean the filter for a week. After soaking for about 30 minutes, squeezing the sock periodically will help it to dissolve faster. Test and dose chemicals in your pool assuming the amount of CYA added is in the pool according to Poolmath. CYA can be tested the day after it is fully dissolved from the sock.




After 30 days you will need about 14 40lbs bags of salt to get your SWG going.

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you so much, I’ll need to re read each of the categories again and get better informed.

Yes, I don’t want to be going to the store every day, time to stock up. How about the muriatic acid, is that ok for now?

Also, for measurements of chemicals, is there a preferred method, is it eye ball , scale for say the dry stabilizer and measure cup for other items?

 

[ajw22]

Yes, I don’t want to be going to the store every day, time to stock up. How about the muriatic acid, is that ok for now?

You will have a better feel when you see how long the gallon of MA lasts. I would have 3 or 4 on hand. MA does not spoil and lasts forever. Store it outside safely away from children.

Chemical Storage and Safety - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Also, for measurements of chemicals, is there a preferred method, is it eye ball , scale for say the dry stabilizer and measure cup for other items?

I handle and transfer chemicals as little as possible.

I eyeball most chemicals. 1/2gallon of chlorine gives you 2.7 ppm. If you want 3ppm then you add a bit more. You can test chlorine and acid additions 30 minutes after adding. So initially test after adding and see if you get your desired results until you are hitting your marks.

I weight the sock with stabilizer in it on a food scale that goes up to 10lbs.

 

[Tom09]

You will have a better feel when you see how long the gallon of MA lasts. I would have 3 or 4 on hand. MA does not spoil and lasts forever. Store it outside safely away from children.

Chemical Storage and Safety - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I handle and transfer chemicals as little as possible.

I eyeball most chemicals. 1/2gallon of chlorine gives you 2.7 ppm. If you want 3ppm then you add a bit more. You can test chlorine and acid additions 30 minutes after adding. So initially test after adding and see if you get your desired results until you are hitting your marks.

I weight the sock with stabilizer in it on a food scale that goes up to 10lbs.

Now I understand why people use swgs, I haven’t priced chlorine except when I ordered for instore pickup at pool store. Walmart is extremely cheaper but have read mixed reviews on the effectiveness of it. Should I pay the extra money and get it at the pool store or homedepot which is not much cheaper or Walmart and risk it all?

How about dry stabilizer, does that go bad? The pool store sells it in 4 lb containers.

 

[ajw22]

The Walmart Pool Essentials Chlorine is good stuff as long as it has a date code on the bottle within the last 3 months.

Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Breakdown of Bleach Over Time by Storage Temp - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Stabilizer does not spoil. Get two 4lb bags.