Pool Stains

But I just used the calculator on PoolMath, and a 13' wide pool by 24' long, with an average depth of 5 feet (just over 3' on shallow end and 6' on deep end) is 10,300 gallons!!!! Not 16,000!!! Here's a pic of my pool, is there any way this thing is 16,000 gallons???
The ABSOLUTE best way to "dial in" your pool volume is to adjust pH or FC. Test, make an addition, retest in 30 minutes with pump running. If you are short of your target result, increase pool size by 500 gallons. If you overshoot, reduce your pool size by 500 gallons. Rinse and repeat until your additions match your expectations.

13x24x 4.5 ave depth...likely around 10.5K gallons...

Is the 13 the wide or the narrow part? If narrow, might be a bit more. If wide, might be a bit less.
 
You can’t eyeball the number of gallons in your pool.

When you see what the actual effects of adding chemicals like you are you can adjust the gallons until the predictions become pretty accurate.

There is also a Chemical Way of Calculating Pool Volume using an alkalinity test kit, sodium bicarbonate or acid, and the formula.
 
I played around with the numbers on PoolMath, and to go from 0 salt to 4,000 ppm (estimate of where I'm at right now, one test @ 4,200 and the other at 3,800, split the difference @ 4,000), I would need to add 321 pounds (I added (8) 40 pound bags - so 320 lb) for a 9.600 gallon pool. I'm so glad this high salt number got me thinking about gallons being off, I busted out a tape measure, and there just isn't any way this thing is 16,000 gallons like pinch a penny said they had in their system. I never measured it before for myself, I just went off of what I was told. This thing is sitting closer to around 10,000 gallons...

The 13' food wide is split between the wide section and the skinnier section, I just rounded in-between.
 
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Just another way you got Pool Stored by Pinch-A-Penny.

Follow our advice and stay out of Pool Stores.
 
I'm SO glad I found TFP. I have already learned so much in just the last couple weeks... Thank you all VERY much for all of your help with everything!! Starting with my pool stains, to my leak, now to my chemistry! Everyone on here has been more than helpful and knowledgeable. I've always been a DIY'er with it comes to home improvement and I'm very grateful to have learned what I have learnned thus far when it comes to pool maintenance. Screw the pool stores! Yall are awesome.

To go from 4000 ppm to 3000, obviously I need to replace 25% of the water. Im draining down about 1'6" now and will refill. That should get me close. Then Ill start over with pool chemistry lol.....
 
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Partial drain and refill, back on track.

CL - 4
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
CH - 250 (need to raise this a bit, I found this on Amazon, will this be ok?? Amazon Link )
TA - 110
CYA - 30 (Will give it another couple days then will add accordingly - THIS TIME IN A SOCK!!)

After reading the Chlorine / CYA chart - I think I am going to shoot for a CYA of 70 and a target CL level of 5
 
Leave it, 250 is just fine. How much rain do you get? Do you have an autofill? What is the CH of your fill water.
That is freshly filled from my well as of a few days ago, no calcium chloride added at all. No auto fill, however I am in Central Florida, meaning in summer time, we get a thunderstorm pretty much every afternoon.
 
That is freshly filled from my well as of a few days ago, no calcium chloride added at all. No auto fill, however I am in Central Florida, meaning in summer time, we get a thunderstorm pretty much every afternoon.
Then I would definitely wouldn't add more. How often to you add water when it is not summer?
 
After doing some tedious research on SWG's, I did the math, and my Salt Cell was at the end of its life. The salt reading on the panel was 60% of the actual salt level (reading on the panel was 1800, actual salt level was 3000). I think my very very high salt in the pool over the past year or so (before I discovered TFP) added to the cells shorter life-span. The cell was here when we bought the home, we have been here going on 3 years now, so it was time anyway.

Although probably against advice of this page, I chose to go with the Blue Works T-Cell-15 over the Hayward T-Cell-15. The Hayward right now is $900 on amazon, while the Blue Works is at $600. The cell I had before was not name brand, it it worked just fine for years. The Blue Works has a 2 year warranty and had favorable reviews on Amazon, so for the $300 in savings, I think its worth it.

I bought the one with the clear looking-glass. It's pretty cool!! Once the SWG kicks on, you can actually see it create the chlorine, and a foggy substance is briefly seen shooting through the Salt Cell through the looking glass out to the pool.

As far as my leak, I ordered both a standard 4" Frankenplug, along with a 1.5" "Skimmer Saver". I also ordered a 2" Extension, as all of my lines are 2", not 1.5.

I don't think the Skimmer Saver is going to work in my scenario, at least not as it comes. How the Skimmer Saver works it, Once the "Skimmer Saver" is tightened down, the small rubber washer on the end expands, forming a seal in the pipe, about 10" into the pool wall. The caveat is, on the other end of the seal, its simply a rubber washer designed to tighten down flush on the outside. I feel like, especially since I have to use a 2" Extension, the whole plug is simply going to slide towards the pool wall, therefore not forming a seal on the outside.

Instead, what I would like to do is figure out a way to use the pool cleaner port attachment (pictured), and thread the frankenplug into that, using some sort of a reducer. The reducer cannot screw to the outside of the pool cleaner port (pictured) however, because this must thread into the wall. It must thread into the inside of the pool cleaner port, and form a water tight seal. Then, the 2" extension can first be put into place deep inside the pipe. Next, the entire frankenplug (not tightened yet), coupled with the pool cleaner port, can all be screwed straight into the wall until tight and sealed at the pool wall.. Next, with the threaded parts of the frankenplug still sticking out, the threaded frankenplug can be twisted counter-clockwise, forming the seal against the 2" extention in the pipe. Then, we have a seal. I'll just have to figure out how to cut off the frankenplug somewhat inside the pool cleaner port, so I can stick my pool vacuum into the port. I may have to trim off some of the neck of my pool cleaner (the elbow that sicks off the hose that runs to Zodiac MX8).

But for now, I just plugged it.

I have slowly filled the side of the port, where the leak was, with "Stop Leak" using a syringe, and slowly letting the stop leak get sucked into the pool wall. I did this several times, until it seemed to have stopped the leak. I let it cure, then did it again, although it didn't seem to take any more. Next, I finished off with pressing and pressing pool putty around the vacuum port. So fingers crossed, WE'LL SEE IF IT WORKS!!!

I can mess around with plumbing fittings later to bring back function of my pool vacuum port, for now I'm just running it through the skimmer.

Current Chemistry:
FC- 5
CC- 0
pH- 7.3 (going to aerate with waterfall today to bring it up to about 7.6)
CH- 250
TA- 70
CYA- 40 (have 50 oz Stabilizer in a sock in the skimmer)
Salt- 3000
 

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Still Leaking!!!! :mad:

I definitely feel as if I'm losing water while the pump is running however.... Doesn't seem to drop overnight, seems to drop during the day.
 
FINALLY GOT IT SOLVED!

Just an update for those interested, did some more research, and discovered where the plastic pool skimmer meets up with the pool walls if often times a source of leaks, especially if there is a crack on the pool deck near the skimmer, from settling (which I have always had). I previously tested where the plastic skimmer meets the pool wall multiple times with dye, however I never saw the dye get sucked in. However I did notice a slight gap all the way around that area. So to play it safe, I went ahead and pool putty'd it, and what do you know, LEAK STOPPED!!!

I still lose some water sometimes, however it was mostly noticeable when highs were in the upper 80's to 90's in the day time, and lows down in the 50's at night... The little bit I do lose is sporadic, not consistent, and its definitely evaporation. I haven't added water in over a month, its only rained lightly once, and my level is holding just fine. As far as the pool cleaner port, I'm just leaving that capped. So, between pool puttying around the pool cleaner and port and the skimmer, leak solved!!

On a side note for those interested, I also solved another problem. My wife noticed that in heavy storms, our pool deck would flood up around the drain area. Sometimes as much as about 3/4 of an inch, and outwards several feet, including onto our back lanai towards the house. Eventually it would seep through and out the deck drain, just took some time. So I ordered something called a "pool deck janitor", which a little plastic flap that matches the design of your deck drain, that is designed to allow you to stick your water hose in your deck drain, snake it it all the way through, and flush out debris. Also, where my deck drain drains out of the side of my pool deck concrete slab, I installed a catch basin. And with 4" PVC I ran a drain line under my landscape curbing, and then made a dry well by running the pipe straight down into a hole, drilling out holes in the pipe in the down spout, and filling the surrounding area with gravel. I wanted to go out further than I did, however I ended up running into my pool piping while I was digging and had to stop short. At the very top of the dry well, I have a pop-up valve, and the level of this valve (should) sit just below the level of the catch basin, so (theoretically) should pop up and allow water to drain. But that's only if the ground around the dry well ever becomes so saturated it can't take any more water. But I don't really see that being a problem.

Water chemistry going good, the only thing I wish I would have done differently was to add enough Calcium Chloride to get my CH up where it needed to be BEFORE adding salt. Then I could have just added enought salt after the Calcium Chloride disolved to get my salt level where it needed to be, as oppose to starting to add salt first, and then adding Calcium Chloride (at least I stopped short and tested before adding too much salt). I have become much more comfortable utilizing my TF-Pro Test kit, and its become alot of fun!! Heres my current chemistry:

pH - 7.9 (goal 7.6, added some muratic acid, which I seem to always be doing)
FC - 8.0 (goal 7.0, still dialing in my SWG to get it just right, I'm only at 15% right now, and with use and warmer weather approaching, I'm sure I will need to adjust up as we move into summer)
CC - 0
CH - 275 (goal 350)
TA - 65 (goal 70, and today being the first time, I added a little baking soda)
CYA - 80 (goal 75)
Salt - 3200 (goal 3200)

My only consistent battle it seems like, is the pH being CONSTANTLY high. It seems like its always reading in the 7.9 to 8.0 area. I'll add muratic acid, it will get where it needs to be for a day or so, and then the very next day, its back up to 7.9. Is there anything I can do about this? Is this normal?

Thanks again to everyone's help, from getting my own water test kit, to the pool stains, to my leak - I've learned a lot the last few months. TFP is awesome!!!
 

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My only consistent battle it seems like, is the pH being CONSTANTLY high. It seems like its always reading in the 7.9 to 8.0 area. I'll add muratic acid, it will get where it needs to be for a day or so, and then the very next day, its back up to 7.9. Is there anything I can do about this? Is this normal?
Leave it alone. With a TA of 60-70 (good!), you will likely find your pH will stabilize somewhere between 7.8-8.0. Any pH in the 7s is fine. Don't force it down. If it is stable at 7.9, leave it.
 

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