Pool pad automation/monitoring

[ajw22]

Yes sir. Just the Pentair sensor to the heater port on the IntelliConnect.

Should also allow heater control

Heater firemans switch is the right terminal block.

Water Temperature sensor connection in the middle.

RS-485 connections on the left.

 

[uraceulose]

Thank you

 

[uraceulose]

This will probably make more sense to me when the IntelliConnect arrives but I'm not clear about how the RS-485 cable is going to connect from the IC60 to the IntelliConnect. Currently the RS-485 runs over to the IC60 power center.

The pump RS-485 cable runs from the pump special RS-485 threaded connector over to my current intellicomm box green/yellow just wired right to the terminals and same with the heater switch control wires.

My SWCG just ties into the pump power at the junction box then the data cable is hardwired into the SWCG and has an open RS-485 threaded connector to hook up to the power center.

I'm assuming that I'm going to move the RS-485 connector currently running to the power center over to the IntelliConnect box? In that case, I would just cut the threaded connector off and wire it directly into the IntelliConnect box using only the green/yellow wires and leave any others (unused in the RS-485 connector side) loose/wirenutted ?

 

[ajw22]

IntelliChlor cell connects to PC100 Power Center.

Power Center connects to AC power and has RS-485 connector on the surge card inside it. Use a 2 wire cable and connect the Power Center RS485 to the IntelliConnect RS-485 connector.

Pump RS-485 cable moves from IntelliChem to IntelliConnect RS-485 connector.

 

[uraceulose]

Thank you so much, that makes a lot more sense

 

[uraceulose]

$275 IntelliConnect
$100 Valve Actuator
$75 Romex/3 bay switch box/new switch plate
$35 Temp Sensor
$20 Kasa WiFi Light Switch
$20 Transformer
$15 Relay

Learned every bit of it here on the forum. Big thanks to AJW22 and KatoDude and Jim and everyone else who has helped guide me.

 

[uraceulose]

Something else I realized...the Pentair ChemCheck can also be added to the Pentair Home App and are available for around $300 on eBay..not too bad if the PH sensor works..will still have to test FC through the winter but other than that it should be pretty automated and able to be monitored from anywhere.

There is no formula for ORP to FC that we can trust I assume?

 

[ajw22]

There is no formula for ORP to FC that we can trust I assume?

Nope. ORP is a poor proxy for chlorine levels.

The ORP probe is sensitive to all kids of redox chemical reactions as well as pH and sunlight conditions.

 

[uraceulose]

Can we take a given FC/PH/Temp measurement in our individual pools then correlate it to the ORP reading on the sensor then for example do the same measurement at a PH of 7.4 vs 7.6 vs 7.8 etc and use the ORP to get a decent idea of FC level?

 

[uraceulose]

Or just completely useless reading and I'll basically be crossing my fingers the PH sensor reads accurately?

 

[ajw22]

Can we take a given FC/PH/Temp measurement in our individual pools then correlate it to the ORP reading on the sensor then for example do the same measurement at a PH of 7.4 vs 7.6 vs 7.8 etc and use the ORP to get a decent idea of FC level?

You will need to do your own calibration and see if is repeatable.

 

[ajw22]

Or just completely useless reading and I'll basically be crossing my fingers the PH sensor reads accurately?

PH probe may be useful and consistent.

 

[uraceulose]

Ok, thanks so much. Definitely not counting on it...I read some previous stuff from ChemGeek and man it really goes beyond my understanding of chemistry!

I just figured it might be nice to have a decent idea if you took 10-12 different measurements throughout the PH/FC and temp range in a given season and checked the reported ORP levels at the same PH/FC/Temp level readings.

 

[uraceulose]

PH probe may be useful and consistent.

For the price, if it goes even 2 years it should be worth it for me. I've read what you were saying about PH stability and I really think by next swim season when I add borates...I can get it to where I make very very few adjustments if I'm able to see a graph of any "swings" in PH

 

[uraceulose]

It won't let me upload the video but huge thanks to JimRahbe and AJW as always!! Helped me HUGE with a diagram that I followed to a T and the valve works great!

After about 25 attempts, I FINALLY was able to get my PIF version IntelliConnect to link with WiFi and control through the Pentair Home app...it would not update the firmware but after many attempts and honest to God about to return for the different board version it popped online and is working great.

Using an IntelliConnect I scored on eBay and this combination:

20 Gauge Wire - Relay - Transformer - Valve Actuator - Whip Assembly - WiFi Switch for light(s) - Echo Pop

About $225 there plus the ChemCheck for $250 & IntelliConnect for $350 - 500 on average. Controls VSF pump, lights, booster pump, SWCG, 1 valve, Ph Monitoring and the heater all from App/WiFi/Alexa. Can be had for $750 if you really hunt and control 6 items plus monitor PH all from your phone

Will see how it goes with the Ph and Orp sensors in time and report back





Found this video...it'll allow the desired 80%ish heater bypass on one side of the relay and anywhere you wish on the other side.

 

[uraceulose]

One add to the information here is that after getting on the phone with Pentair a half dozen times over a couple week period, they were able to schedule a local pool company technician to come out and update my IntelliFlo 011056 firmware from that 3.04 version, it fixed 2-3 weird bugs that seemed to be issues with the app itself but were fixed via the pump update.

They replaced the entire pump drive with a new unit. The odd thing is that if memory serves...it's a brand new pump drive direct from Pentair, however it is now on version 2.017 or 2.17 I believe which would seem like it went backwards. But hey, it works!

We were also able to get the firmware/software updated on the IntelliConnect and IntelliChem. The Intelliconnect shows 39 DBM on airport utility app so the connection is excellent and it has not dropped one time since we plugged it in. The initial connection was a nightmare but once it was online and updated, it really seems to be a great system.

I should be HOPEFULLY done with a SLAM here soon and then I can see how that IntelliChem works. It flows very well and with the new plumbing setup, I am able to run my pump at 1800 rpm using 375 watts and run the heater showing under 4 psi on the DE Filter gauge. Legend Kreepy Krauly wheel spins at 30-31 rpm with primary pump at 1750 rpm at booster running using about 330 watts.

So it's all very efficient, has a heater bypass via the app and full control of SWCG with freeze protection, temp display, heater control etc.

 

[uraceulose]

Couple other shots. I added that little antenna to the IntelliChem then marked and drilled a hole in the top cover.

 

[uraceulose]

You guys may already know this but I discovered that at only 750 rpm, my pump flows 23-24 GPM and only draws 37-38 watts. At 1040 RPM, it flows 20-21 GPM and draws 78-79 watts. I thought that 1000 rpm was about the bottom limit to obtain enough flow...oddly the lower RPM produces more flow at those RPM

I'm not planning to try any lower than 750 RPM but the Laars heater runs great at 40 GPM which is about 1600 RPM and the SWCG does fine at 20-21 GPM...the one thing I'm still messing with to fine tune and get as efficient as possible is the ChemCheck...it might require a bit more flow to function. If that is the case, I may only end up using the ChemCheck on a 3-4 times per day schedule when the pump ramps up to skim/vacuum. I'm still coming down off of a SLAM so it may take until early next week on that.

 

[uraceulose]

Got the ChemCheck fired up and calibrated this evening. It's pretty neat. I measured PH @ 7.5-7.6 yesterday and it provided a reading of 7.36 at about 7:00 pm tonight. My FC was at 15 yesterday...ORP reading is 689 tonight on the ChemCheck...the coolest part is that it does provide hourly, daily, weekly and monthly graphing and the ChemCheck will run a test automatically when the flow ramps up enough to meet the required flow. It does seem to take more like 30-35 GPM at a minimum to provide enough flow and moving it below the filter, piping..basically as low as you can helps big time. I tried up high to make it a bit more accessible...it wanted almost 50 GPM to get the flow indicator to rise. I moved it down about 24" and it required 15 GPM less.

I'll take some super good PH measurements in good lighting in the coming days as my FC drops a bit more and really see how close it can get...when you calibrate the PH sensor, the instructions state to leave the probe in the 7.00 or 7.01 buffer solution for 5 minutes minimum, I did right about 6 minutes...will probably let it run and do it's thing for a week or so and then recalibrate again and leave it sitting in that same buffer solution for about 15 minutes next time and see if it gets closer to the Taylor reading.

Overall, I'm super happy with the system...it took hours to get dialed in but it is very very convenient to be able to make very fine adjustments and monitor PH on and hourly/daily graph, see and adjust pool temp hours before arriving home on a hot day and see pool pump status away from home or see leaves on the pool on the camera then just fire up the booster pump for a couple hours.

If only I can figure out a way to keep those dang bettas out of the pool cleaner hose... LOL

 

[uraceulose]

Ok so the ChemCheck seems to be pretty legit. It will test once per hour every hour on a 24 hour cycle if the flow is there to meet the requirement. It will show each individual test as soon as they are performed on a dot graph. If the desired flow is not met within the 24 hour cycle, it will display the error message "no or low flow". It allows me to run my normal 20-21 hours per day at 750 RPM only drawing 37 watts and flowing 23-24 GPM, then at 9 AM it runs a program at 1745 RPM which is about 36-37 GPM and 315 watts for an hour then again at 1 PM it does the same ramp up then again at 10:45 PM for another hour.
On pressure side cleaner vacuum days...it adds another hour + of ramped up main pump run time which will provide an additional reading.

My PH measured 7.36 yesterday at 7-8 PM on start up, 7.52 at 11 PMish, then 7.57 at 9 AM today then 7.52 at 1 PM...I measured 7.4 - 7.6 more or less the day before yesterday on the Taylor test kit.

Time will tell but if it's that close, man AJW you were correct...the PH sensor alone in that $250 ChemCheck...by the time I buy an Atlas probe and figure it all out...it would be better to have real time constant readings now doubt but for the $$ this is tough to beat so far.