Pool not circulating and pressure high

[Rouquine]

Hi all,
My dad passed away last week and he was unable to care for the pool before he passed, so they had an algae problem. We are following SLAM. The issue I’m seeing right now is the pool is not circulating well and the filter pressure is nearing 40psi. It is a DE filter. We have been spraying out the filter daily (2 days ago very milky green, yesterday not nearly as visibly dirty). We backwashed yesterday. I cleaned the baskets today (poolside and the basket at the impeller; also checked impeller for clogs). Can you please help me understand why pressure is so high? I am attaching photos of valves. Please be patient with me…I don’t have a pool myself, but am trying desperately to help my mom, since she doesn’t have enough money for significant repairs after the death of my father. THANK YOU!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP. Sorry for your loss.

What is the filter pressure immediately after you clean the filter?

When you clean the filter are you backwashing it using the slider valve or breaking it open to hose off the DE?

A DE filter works very well and needs frequent backwashing during the SLAM Process.

What test kit are you using?

What is your..

FC
CC
CYA

DE Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Slide Valves - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[wireform]

If I was close by I'd be there to help you in a heart beat. Sorry for your loss.

 

[Rouquine]

The past few days, the filter pressure has been more along the lines of 25ish. I just looked and it's at 37. The other thing I'm noticing is that even after priming and checking the o-rings and everything, the "bubbliness" isn't as strong as it was the past few days. We just refilled it with water, though it doesn't want to accept more water than the top of the basket (I can't get it to overflow, I mean). This seems weird.

We backwashed using the slider valve.

I bought HTH test strips at Walmart. The FC this morning was about 2, the CYA was at the very bottom level (0-40). These strips don't have CC but the pool chemical guy came by today and said that the total chlorine was 6, so I believe that means CC is 4? Sorry for not having the best possible test kit... I'm kind of grabbing at straws (or grabbing at strips??? Heh).

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your thoughts!

 

[dfwnoob]

I'm so sorry for your loss. We'll help you figure this out.

When you have time, can you post a more complete picture of the equipment pad?

 

[Rouquine]

Absolutely!! I hope this is the kind of pic you wanted but I’ll keep going back til I get what helps. Adding current pool photo, too. It was much more swampy before this.

 

[Jimrahbe]

R,

You live in the DFW area where water is pretty cheap. It might make the most sense, and cost less, to just drain the pool and star over.

I live in Bedford, and just drained and refilled a 15K pool with a plaster issue, and it cost me about $75 bucks to fill it back up.

I'd give your City a call a see what the cost would be to drain and refill your pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Rouquine]

Got it - I can call the city and see what they say.

 

[ajw22]

I bought HTH test strips at Walmart. The FC this morning was about 2, the CYA was at the very bottom level (0-40). These strips don't have CC but the pool chemical guy came by today and said that the total chlorine was 6, so I believe that means CC is 4? Sorry for not having the best possible test kit... I'm kind of grabbing at straws (or grabbing at strips??? Heh).

It is a waste of time and money to try doing the SLAM Process without the proper test kit. The HTH test strips will not do the job.

I suggest we help you figure out how to put the pool into a holding pattern the way it is until you decide if you will drain and refill it or get the right test kit and chemicals to follow the SLAM PROCESS.

Are you using liquid chlorine?

Do you know approximately how many gallons are in the pool?

I understand that the DE filter is clogging after a few hours and the best action may be to shut down the pool equipment until you are ready to proceed with one of those paths.

 

[Rouquine]

Understood.
It's a 20,000 gallon pool.
My sister put in cal-hypo at 70% concentration (after mixing in water) two nights in a row because my parents had that on hand, and then yesterday we used 7.5% concentration bleach. (We used a calculator to get the amounts to put in to raise the free chlorine where we wanted it).

I just received a call from the city and we calculated that it would cost $124 to refill the pool. If we take that path, is there anything else we need to think about cost-wise/any other tasks we need to do?

I'm concerned about how the pool isn't circulating very well even though the filter didn't look bad...for instance, if we drain and refill, what if it still doesn't circulate properly for some reason :/. Two days ago when we cleaned the filter (we only took off the cover part and sprayed it all down as much as possible), the water that came from the drain was murky green, but yesterday the filters were only mildly scummy and the water that came from the drain was pretty clear.

Thank you!

 

[ajw22]

I just received a call from the city and we calculated that it would cost $124 to refill the pool. If we take that path, is there anything else we need to think about cost-wise/any other tasks we need to do?

You will spend more then that on the Liquid Chlorine to clear the pool.

Here is what I would do:

• Shutdown the pool pump
• Rent a submersible pump and at least 1" hose to drain the pool. You have a good place to drain all the water to?
• Get chemicals on hand
  • At least 10 lbs of dry stabilizer
  • 8 gallons of 10%-12% liquid chlorine
  • 2 gallons of muriatic acid
• Order the TF-100 or TF Pro test kit - Test Kits
• While the pool is draining open the filter and clean the DE filter well following DE Filter Use and Care - Further Reading
• Setup as many hoses as you have outdoors to refill the pool
• Reassemble the filter and add DE as soon as you start the pump after the pool is filled
• Add 5 lbs of dry stabilizer using the sock method to raise CYA to 30
• Lower pH to 7.4 to 7.2
• Add 2.5 gallons of liquid chlorine for a FC of 12 to begin the SLAM Process
• Follow the SLAM PROCESS to get rid of any remaining algae. It should go quickly and not clog the filter much.

I'm concerned about how the pool isn't circulating very well even though the filter didn't look bad...for instance, if we drain and refill, what if it still doesn't circulate properly for some reason :/. Two days ago when we cleaned the filter (we only took off the cover part and sprayed it all down as much as possible), the water that came from the drain was murky green, but yesterday the filters were only mildly scummy and the water that came from the drain was pretty clear.

Deal with one problem at a time. Sounds like the filter is working OK but not optimally. Once you get fresh water in the pool you can better evaluate the filter performance.

Get your test kit on order.

How will you chlorinate the pool with the fresh water?

 

[Mayorb]

The main issue is that your filter is having too rapid pressure rise, which is restricting circulation considerably.
Have you tried a flocculant?
Make sure pH is at least 7.5, broadcast is as directed on label. Run pump at least 6 hours, then put control panel in SERVICE mode to assure pump does not restart.
Water should clear by next day, maybe two. All the particulates will be on pool floor.
In the meantime, open your filter and remove and clean the internals thoroughly.
Reassemble filter tank WITHOUT filters inside.
At that point you can vacuum the silt on bottom to waste by running pump with filter valve in BACKWASH setting.
That will get debris out of system altogether. Be aware pool will lose 1"-2" of water.
Then reassemble tank, recharge filter with DE and return system to AUTO mode.

 

[ajw22]

The main issue is that your filter is having too rapid pressure rise, which is restricting circulation considerably.
Have you tried a flocculant?
Make sure pH is at least 7.5, broadcast is as directed on label. Run pump at least 6 hours, then put control panel in SERVICE mode to assure pump does not restart.
Water should clear by next day, maybe two. All the particulates will be on pool floor.
In the meantime, open your filter and remove and clean the internals thoroughly.
Reassemble filter tank WITHOUT filters inside.
At that point you can vacuum the silt on bottom to waste by running pump with filter valve in BACKWASH setting.
That will get debris out of system altogether. Be aware pool will lose 1"-2" of water.
Then reassemble tank, recharge filter with DE and return system to AUTO mode.

We do NOT recommend using a flocculant for this problem!

 

[Rouquine]

You will spend more then that on the Liquid Chlorine to clear the pool.

Here is what I would do:

• Shutdown the pool pump
• Rent a submersible pump and at least 1" hose to drain the pool. You have a good place to drain all the water to?
• Get chemicals on hand
  • At least 10 lbs of dry stabilizer
  • 8 gallons of 10%-12% liquid chlorine
  • 2 gallons of muriatic acid
• Order the TF-100 or TF Pro test kit - Test Kits
• While the pool is draining open the filter and clean the DE filter well following DE Filter Use and Care - Further Reading
• Setup as many hoses as you have outdoors to refill the pool
• Reassemble the filter and add DE as soon as you start the pump after the pool is filled
• Add 5 lbs of dry stabilizer using the sock method to raise CYA to 30
• Lower pH to 7.4 to 7.2
• Add 2.5 gallons of liquid chlorine for a FC of 12 to begin the SLAM Process
• Follow the SLAM PROCESS to get rid of any remaining algae. It should go quickly and not clog the filter much.

Deal with one problem at a time. Sounds like the filter is working OK but not optimally. Once you get fresh water in the pool you can better evaluate the filter performance.

Get your test kit on order.

How will you chlorinate the pool with the fresh water?

Thank you! I will find out where the pool can be drained and also the other stuff (where I could rent a pump, etc.)

Do we need to plan to power wash or do any other work to the pool after draining? Someone told my sister and mom that it would need a chemical wash.

My mom has a pool person who usually puts in chlorine and checks the Ph and stuff. Is there an ideal way to do the chlorine once the pool is fresh? I think she's pretty open to trying something different.

 

[Rouquine]

The main issue is that your filter is having too rapid pressure rise, which is restricting circulation considerably.
Have you tried a flocculant?
Make sure pH is at least 7.5, broadcast is as directed on label. Run pump at least 6 hours, then put control panel in SERVICE mode to assure pump does not restart.
Water should clear by next day, maybe two. All the particulates will be on pool floor.
In the meantime, open your filter and remove and clean the internals thoroughly.
Reassemble filter tank WITHOUT filters inside.
At that point you can vacuum the silt on bottom to waste by running pump with filter valve in BACKWASH setting.
That will get debris out of system altogether. Be aware pool will lose 1"-2" of water.
Then reassemble tank, recharge filter with DE and return system to AUTO mode.

Thank you!
The pH is currently about 7.2 (according to pool company test kit, not just my test strips, though theirs agreed with the strips).
The pump has been running on service mode, but the circulation is just not great. It doesn't feel like it's doing much. I do think there are a lot of particulates on the pool floor.

We have only been cleaning the filter by opening the top and thoroughly spraying. It sounds like there could be considerable improvement if we fully remove the individual pieces? We don't see gunk in there, but that doesn't mean it's not there, I'm sure . I think we're sort of at a loss because there is gunk in the pool, but we can't get it to settle/leave the pool. My sister is trying to scoop out what she can.

We have a automatic pool sweep thing, but it's not running properly because there's a leak in the tube that leads to the housing. It may be as simple as disconnecting and then reconnecting the hose tighter, or maybe we just need to replace that hose. It doesn't have the pressure that it needs to move around the pool, we believe.

 

[ajw22]

Thank you! I will find out where the pool can be drained and also the other stuff (where I could rent a pump, etc.)

Home Depot rents pumps.

Do we need to plan to power wash or do any other work to the pool after draining? Someone told my sister and mom that it would need a chemical wash.

If you do a fill with fresh water then the SLAM Process properly it will clear any lingering algae on the walls.

We don't recommend power washing old plaster unless you know what you are doing and know the condition of the plaster. It can create more problems then it fixes.

My mom has a pool person who usually puts in chlorine and checks the Ph and stuff. Is there an ideal way to do the chlorine once the pool is fresh? I think she's pretty open to trying something different.

Buy her a present and install a SWG. It is the easiest way to chlorinate a pool.

No one will take care of the pool like the owner will.

We find weekly Pool Care visits rarely keep a pool in good shape. We advocate for owners taking care of their own pools howvere I understand your mother may have limitations.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Rouquine]

I think there are probably leaves and other gunk at the bottom of the pool near the drain. It's hard to say because we can't see through the water. We'll try to get that scooped up as best we can... maybe this is contributing to the problem.

 

[duraleigh]

This is a bit off the subject but no pool pumps I am aware of are capable of producing over 25 psi. Your gauge is probably faulty.
A new one is about twenty bucks or so. The ones at TFTestkits are reported pretty dependable.

 

[Rouquine]

This is a bit off the subject but no pool pumps I am aware of are capable of producing over 25 psi. Your gauge is probably faulty.
A new one is about twenty bucks or so. The ones at TFTestkits are reported pretty dependable.

I don't mind off subject To make sure I have everything understood... I looked at the psi gauge on top of the filter and that's what's showing near 40 after showing more like 27ish the past few days. That's the correct place I should be looking, right?

 

[duraleigh]

Yeah, you're looking at the correct gauge. If you decide to replace it. it will unscrew by hand. The new one will screw on by hand as well so it's an easy fix. Put a little pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads of the new one.

Bottom-mounted Pressure Gauge

tftestkits.net