Pool is 100 degrees - how to prevent algae?

Ryan-Cal

Silver Supporter
Apr 2, 2019
45
Agoura Hills, CA
Pool Size
18500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Something went wrong and we heated the entire pool to 100 degrees. The air temp is about 90, so it'll take some time to cool down. Do you recommend I shock the pool to get the chlorine level up quickly, or just adjust the SWG from 40% to 100% output and run the pump for a while?

I don't need an algae problem to go with my gas bill!

I'm not sure why I can't post my Pool Math logs directly right now, but I'm at:
FC 0.6
CC: 0.08
PH: 7.9
TA: 80
CH: 300
CYA: 100
Salt: 3000
 
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As long as you have the appropriate amount of FC for your CYA, Water temp shouldn't matter. While Temp does cause chlorine to break down, that would be reflected in your FC reading.
 
As long as you have the appropriate amount of FC for your CYA, Water temp shouldn't matter. While Temp does cause chlorine to break down, that would be reflected in your FC reading.
Thanks. That makes sense. My chlorine level is quite a bit lower today than last week with no SWG % changes. I'll up it to 100% output and see if it comes up well.
 
Ryan, I would also augment the SWG sith some liquid chlorine/regular bleach ASAP. When you look at the FC/CYA Levels, you can see that you are way under the ideal level. I'd take the FC to 12. How did your CYA get that high anyways? Tabs or bags of shock? Curious so we know how to help. Are sure it's no higher? There's a CYA dilution test to confirm. Use the followng link and start at step #8 if you need to.
 
Ryan, I would also augment the SWG sith some liquid chlorine/regular bleach ASAP. When you look at the FC/CYA Levels, you can see that you are way under the ideal level. I'd take the FC to 12. How did your CYA get that high anyways? Tabs or bags of shock? Curious so we know how to help. Are sure it's no higher? There's a CYA dilution test to confirm. Use the followng link and start at step #8 if you need to.

Thanks so much. I just added a bag of dichlor (which should get me up to 4), so I'll add at least one more. I've been using the Lamotte ColorQ, and it's been terrible on CH and not great on CYA. I added a tub of stabilizer last week, and the 100 reading is from the pool store, so it could be a bit lower. I need to get the TF-100 or K-2006 so I can test myself more accurately. Which do you think is better/easier (esp with a red-green color blindness)?

The pool store manager said he wouldn't worry to much about higher CYA and that it would come down naturally. What do you think?
 
I need to get the TF-100 or K-2006 so I can test myself more accurately.
That's #1. No doubt. :goodjob:
The pool store manager said he wouldn't worry to much about higher CYA
And that's why we stay out of pool stores. He's wrong. With each tab, each bag of shock (dichlor, trichlor, etc) you are increasing the CYA. You need to bring it down ASAP, but the only way to do that is a partial water exchange. Pool stores don't mind because after selling you a $100 bucket of tabs, they tell you to drain water and come back for more tabs.

Find a place that sells regular bleach (no scented or splashless) or liquid pool chlorine like Pool Essentials at walmart. Use ONLY that to increase your FC for now. Anything else, including Cal-Hypo which increases CH, is bad for your pool right now.

Once you get the proper test kit, post a full set of numbers, You may be very surprised at the difference between your testing and the store.
 
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