Pool chipping away!

nicpppardo

0
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2013
73
Hello!

Since I bought this house with our salt water pool awhile ago, we’ve had tons of trouble with calcium hardness. I’ve never seen lower than 700. Los Angeles hard water mixed with pH rising hourly haha - I can’t win! I stayed on top of it really well until this past year when I had to travel a ton for work. I wasn’t on top of the acid like I used to be. We always always always had scaling, but this year it got worse. It wasn’t alarming until it noticed this today —

On the landing of our pool (photo of whole pool for context) we started to get what look like calcium deposit spots. Today I looked at it on my way in the pool and noticed a dark spot. I touched it and it was basically that the top layer of “concrete” (I cannot think of the name of what this pool is made out of!) came up. Picture attached. When I touch those other white spots, they were bubbled up where if I pressed hard enough, they would also lose the top layer and concrete would be exposed.

1) looking for confirmation that this is almost definitely a calcium hardness issue where it’s eating away at my 9 year old pool!

And

2) How do you repair it? Can you without redoing the whole pool?

My last question is -

3) Can I just convert to non salt water? I have to get a new cell every 4-5 years, I obviously can’t stay on top of the acid like I used to ... is that maybe my best bet??

Thanks for your help!
Nicole
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Those blisters can be a signal of end-of-life for your finish. I haven't heard of a reliable fix, and even if there was one, you wouldn't be addressing the root cause, you'd only be filling holes while other blisters pop up elsewhere. Others here will chime in about it. And/or have a plaster guy come take a look, in person. Chances are, they're going to advise replacement (and why wouldn't they!?!), so there's an inherent conflict of interest there. It's not a good sign, though. You could them with something, for a temporary fix. It won't likely look or feel great.

By the way, it's all cement (in essence). What you're feeling is the plaster's aggregate underneath the plaster's cream layer. It's similar to the rocks they mix into a concrete sidewalk, only smaller. The material is shot into a pool, then worked (troweled) to push down the aggregate and bring a layer of pure plaster to the surface, so it's nice and smooth and comfortable. Just under that cream layer is the tiny aggregate that adds strength to the plaster. It is that cream layer that is blistering off. You have another 1/2" or so before you get through the plaster and reach the gunite (concrete) underneath the plaster. That's my layman's understanding of it, anyway.

I don't know how much calcium deposits would be responsible for this. That blistering can happen without excessive calcium. I think what is more likely is the calcium deposits are an indication that your pool water has not been maintained properly, which means other chemicals are likely out of balance (or have been), and poor water chemistry is the number one cause of early plaster failure. Nine years is early, but not unheard of. Mine only made it six. Some can go 20+ years. It's about the original mix, the installation, the original cure, and the care between then and now. Nothing to be done about it. The damage has happened.

Yes, you can convert to "non-salt," you'd have to drain your pool to do so. But you don't need to. You can just stop running the SWG and leave the salt. Some add salt to their non-SWG pool just because they like the feel of the extra salt. Besides, every pool is a salt water pool eventually. Chlorine, acid, people, etc all add salt to a pool. Just turn off the SWG and treat it chemically like a non-SWG pool.

But...

If you're having issues maintaining the pool, getting rid of an SWG is only going to exacerbate that issue. My SWG is heaven! No more chlorine to deal with. It's awesome. It did increase pH-rise, which was already an issue with my new surface, necessitating all-to-often doses of MA. So I went the other way! I added an acid dosing machine, and I have that working great too. I haven't touched either chemical for a month now, and my FC and pH have been very stable. Talk about a TFP!! Yes, it's another gizmo, and brings with it all the potential headaches of gizmos, but if your "maintenance challenged," as I am, there are other options open to you...
 
OH, forgot to mention... You don't say where you're from. Here in the southwest, high CH, and scaling issues come with our pools. There are a few ways to combat scaling. It is not a necessary evil, and it is quite possible to enjoy a scale-free pool. I chose to combat my CH problem by using softened water to top off my pool. My CH was perfect on fill day (comes out of the tap within range for a pool), and I have maintained that level since then (nine months). I connected my auto filler to my water softener and my CH-rise issues are gone. My pool was badly scaled before I resurface it, and since then I haven't seen a spec of calcium on the new pebble or on my edge tile. Solved.
 
Wow thanks so much for this information! I am actually down in Los Angeles so in the Southwest as well with insanely hard water. Our softened water is around 400 and I definitely use it. However, with me being on the road a ton lately, the acid was not happening and my TA was a mess so my pH was all over the place.

I’m working to fix it now, but my neighbors who have non-SWG never have this scaling like I do and I figured it was because of the SWG needing more acid TLC. I know they barely test their pools, so I was frustrated this was happening to me after just 9 months of mistreatment haha.

Our hardness is now at around 1500, which I have had happen before when we first moved in.

I have a couple of questions.

1) You say you bought something for acid. May I ask what you’re using?? I honestly had no idea something existed. That changes the game for me!

2) Only if you’re comfortable sharing, what did it cost for you to resurface your pool?

3) So far that bubbling seems to be happening only on that landing. Any idea why there? Just curious if you had thoughts on it.

4) While we are in CA, our swimming window is short (no heater) so it’s now through early October for us. Can this wait until after then? What do I risk waiting on something like this? Curious if you know based on your experience getting yours redone!

Thanks for all of your information and advice!
 
Wow thanks so much for this information! I am actually down in Los Angeles so in the Southwest as well with insanely hard water. Our softened water is around 400 and I definitely use it. However, with me being on the road a ton lately, the acid was not happening and my TA was a mess so my pH was all over the place.

I’m working to fix it now, but my neighbors who have non-SWG never have this scaling like I do and I figured it was because of the SWG needing more acid TLC. I know they barely test their pools, so I was frustrated this was happening to me after just 9 months of mistreatment haha.

Our hardness is now at around 1500, which I have had happen before when we first moved in.

I have a couple of questions.

1) You say you bought something for acid. May I ask what you’re using?? I honestly had no idea something existed. That changes the game for me!

2) Only if you’re comfortable sharing, what did it cost for you to resurface your pool?

3) So far that bubbling seems to be happening only on that landing. Any idea why there? Just curious if you had thoughts on it.

4) While we are in CA, our swimming window is short (no heater) so it’s now through early October for us. Can this wait until after then? What do I risk waiting on something like this? Curious if you know based on your experience getting yours redone!

Thanks for all of your information and advice!

1) I have all Pentair equipment, so a Pentair IntellipH was the best choice for me. But it relies on (requires) a Pentair SWG, which I already had. They work together and control each other. For a non-Pentair setup you might be better off with a Stenner pump solution. I didn't research that at all, but many here know all about them.

2) $9K total for full chip-out, replace step marker tiles ($900), sand-blast calcium off edge tile ($450) and "normal grade" mini pebble (PebbleTec knockoff). Subtract those extras from the $9K if they don't apply. Did not include water, salt or any startup services or chemicals. Regular plaster (no pebble) would have been about $2K less. I went with pebble to get another 5-10 year lifespan out of this finish. Pebble is definitely not as comfortable as plaster.

3) I know that blisters can happen when you empty a pool, especially an older pool. The weakness is already there, but the release of the water pressure (weight) "sets them free." There would be less weight on your steps, so that's a possible explanation. (Just guessing, there.) And they can be weakened further by a bad acid wash (that's what triggered my pool's blisters). When my plaster guy took one look at the blisters he declared my plaster "done." It was from him I learned they were a symptom of end-of-life plaster, and caused by poor water chemistry. He claimed the acid wash didn't help, but that the blisters were already "waiting to happen." He told me he was some big mucky-muck in the National Plasterers Council. He was sent to my pool by the contractor who destroyed my plaster. So at the time, he wasn't advising me as my plaster guy (I hadn't hired him yet.), but supposedly as a disinterested third party sent to assess what caused the damage to my pool. So that's my primary source of info. He didn't offer any info about patching blisters, which led me to believe doing so is not worth the effort. And the few the contractor tried to patch, popped out anyway, while others formed along side them. So that confirmed that, for me. That's the sum total of my knowledge base. So I can't say for sure why they would be forming only on the steps. I learned elsewhere that installation and curing is very important to plaster lifespan, and so maybe your symptoms are due to bad mix or installation only on your steps? I suppose it's possible that the rest of your pool is fine. But nine years is the other clue. Like I said, it's not rare that plaster can poop out at that age. My plaster guy has replaced 2-year-olds. He's the one that claimed water maintenance the primary factor, which supposedly was determined by a 7-figure study conducted by the NPC. The NPC doesn't get a lot of respect by some here at TFP, so you can make up your own mind about what they, or I, have to say about any of this. There are others here far more educated about plaster and its tendencies. Hopefully they'll chime in to support or dispute my hypotheses.

4) Another guess, but I think the blisters are primarily cosmetic. At least for now. You've still got a lot of plaster between you and the gunite. Gunite is not water proof. It's the plaster that's making your pool water tight. My stone guy summed it up this way: once the plaster is compromised like that, with a chip or blister or scratch, whatever, then water does what water does. I took that to mean that eventually the water would work away at the blisters in some way, but he's not a pool guy so he didn't indicate how long that would take or even if it would eventually cause a leak. The contractor's worker, who came out to patch the blisters, said something disturbing. When I asked him if he thought he could fix the damage, he said "Hey, we're going to be lucky just to keep this pool from leaking." But he was the same idiot who destroyed the pool with the acid wash, so who knows what that meant. Bottom line: you can do a leak test at any point to determine your shell is still water tight, and if it is, then the blisters are not causing any harm (except to your feet!). I lived with mine from about this time last year until October, when I had the pool resurfaced. My logic: I didn't want to lose any swim season, and I didn't want my new surface installed during the heat of summer. I also didn't want the pool emptied after the first rain (paranoid about the shell floating up on ground water), so I picked October. I figured it was the coolest month of the year before rain and ground water could be an issue. Of course it rained that week anyway, but no harm. October turned out to be OK. That gave me all summer to swim and all winter to cure the new pebble without salt, which I didn't add until this spring.

That's one guy's story...

Keep researching. You could probably match the color and patch the blisters with some sort of cement product, with additives to help it stick. You could conceivably get many more years out of your surface before redoing it, if you don't need your steps to be pristine, and it that's the only place it happens. It's not a given you have to chipout the whole pool... If it's holding water, and you can swim in it, it's a pool!
 
Looks like calcium nodules. Calcium scaling is usually more uniform and widespread.

The spots are flaking, which indicates that the spots are hollow underneath like nodules.

A chip out and replaster is the solution. Maybe it's just the one bad area.
 
I have something similar going on. My plaster is only a couple of years old. It’s only happening on the seats in the spa though.

Looks like a cat got in there over the winter. Pool company didn’t return my call or email. Company that closed it didn’t take responsibility. I’m under the impression the water level got to low during the winter and caused the chipping.

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Esloser, it's hard to tell scale in your photos, but I had lots of those types of pock marks, too, in all sizes and densities, in addition to the bigger blisters. The pock marks showed up right away, a direct result of the acid wash. The blisters started showing up in later weeks, over time.

Those were the size and type of defects my contractor tried to patch. Whatever he used, it eventually popped out.
 
Thanks for all of your advice and help. It’s invaluable. I have a couple of people coming out next week to get their opinions (well, prices!) and I like being equipped with information so they don’t try to BS me. I’ll keep you posted!
 

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I've learned here (Kim! Oh, Kim!!), that there is more than one type of chip out.

A full, like I got, where they take every bit of plaster out, down to the gunite. They even trimmed off the bottom of my edge tile (which was not square), because they needed a straight, clean connection to the new surface material (pebble).

Then there is some sort of partial chip out, which I don't know much about. It's cheaper (at least for the contractor), but it doesn't remove all your existing plaster. Maybe that's not even an option for a nine-year-old pool, but be sure you know what you're getting in that regard.

Personally, I wouldn't accept anything but a full chip out.

Sidebar: when I got my remodel, the plasterers replaced my returns with state-of-the-art eyeballs. A nice touch I hadn't even asked for. And they deleted my two floor drains. They had never been used, so I knew my circulation wouldn't be worse. And now I don't have to look at them, trip on them, deal with them snagging brushes or vacuums, and my pool is safer without them.

Point being, you can use a resurface to do more that just replace your surface. Conceivably you can do minor to major reconfiguring. Add a bench, steps, whatever... add or change virtually anything, if you've got the budget for it. But even a little added nicety can take the sting out of a resurface: at least you get a little bit more pool than you had before, which kinda helps justify the expense. Only your imagination is the limit...
 
I gotta expect its from small air bubbles in the plaster and the freeze thaw cycle. Also if it was hot when they plastered or this was the last area done it may have dried out a bit.

It is not really normal for 2 year old plaster.

If its just in the spa or the spa steps you could just replaster or patch the areas.
 
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