Pool Chemistry vs water appearance

I'd say that if you had only been SLAMMING since Friday then you'd still have a few days ahead of you to go.

It would be unusual to be able to complete a SLAM in a couple of days especially in the presence of visible algae. Algae unfortunately is pretty resilient and requires patience.
 
Ok - thanks Jezza
Just making sure I’m on track and not missing something I should be doing otherwise cause this algae is so stubborn. My past SLAMs were different in the discolorations on walls and water clarity cleared early on but my FC loss and CCs kept me at it for awhile.
I’ll keep up the SLAM process until all 3 pass.
 
do I have a bigger problem or just really stubborn algae?
Well, (and not trying to be a wise guy) there really is no "bigger" problem. We all use chlorine in our pools to keep them sanitary and to keep them algae free. That said, the issue is not as black and white as we all want it to be. Sometimes the guidelines we suggest just don't seem to keep your pool as crystal clear as others but NEVER lose sight of the fact that it is chlorine that kills algae and then filtration that clears our pool water of any visible debris.

You have green that brushes away so, simply put, you do not have enough chlorine (at least in that area) to keep it from reforming. What's the fix? Apply more chlorine to that area and brush it more frequently to expose it to the increased chlorine level. Regardless of your test results and maintenance, just remember what you have done is not enough. There is no alternative and there is really no other "bigger problem". It is simply a matter of adequate chlorine. If your pool requires more than our guidelines, just give it some more. I think you will find that you will "catch up" and eliminate that problem just by being persistent.

The cloudiness or dullness you see may not be completely related......it sounds like more of a filtration issue. What is your clean psi? Is your gauge showing an increase in psi over a few days? When do you backwash? Have you ever decided to run the pump 24/7 to combat the cloudiness?
 
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Well, (and not trying to be a wise guy) there really is no "bigger" problem. We all use chlorine in our pools to keep them sanitary and to keep them algae free. That said, the issue is not as black and white as we all want it to be. Sometimes the guidelines we suggest just don't seem to keep your pool as crystal clear as others but NEVER lose sight of the fact that it is chlorine that kills algae and then filtration that clears our pool water of any visible debris.

You have green that brushes away so, simply put, you do not have enough chlorine (at least in that area) to keep it from reforming. What's the fix? Apply more chlorine to that area and brush it more frequently to expose it to the increased chlorine level. Regardless of your test results and maintenance, just remember what you have done is not enough. There is no alternative and there is really no other "bigger problem". It is simply a matter of adequate chlorine. If your pool requires more than our guidelines, just give it some more. I think you will find that you will "catch up" and eliminate that problem just by being persistent.

The cloudiness or dullness you see may not be completely related......it sounds like more of a filtration issue. What is your clean psi? Is your gauge showing an increase in psi over a few days? When do you backwash? Have you ever decided to run the pump 24/7 to combat the cloudiness?
Thanks for the detailed response. I may try a higher FC level for a couple days.
This particular area is just to the right and forward of the deep end return where I add the chlorine. So, I will pour it directly above this particular area. I’ll keep at it.
As for my filtration, I backwash when my pressure gauge is about 20% above normal which might be once or twice a month. My “normal” is 10 psi. It was higher with an old plastic pressure gauge but found it was cracked so I bought a glass oil? gauge and since it’s been installed the normal psi has been 10. Right now I have the pump running 24/7. But before this issue and over the last week or so I noticed when my pump turns on the pressure is low but once it runs for about 5-10 mins it’s back up to normal. Is this something I need to investigate more?
 
But before this issue and over the last week or so I noticed when my pump turns on the pressure is low but once it runs for about 5-10 mins it’s back up to normal. Is this something I need to investigate more?
Yeah, maybe. I can't think of anything that might cause that unless maybe the sand bed is being disturbed by the initial turbulence........but I have never heard of that. How big is your sand filter? Either gpm or diameter?
 
That's a very nice sized filter.......perfect match to your pump. So there is virtually no possibility of excess turbulence in the sand bed (that wasn't particularly logical. anyway).

Perhaps you are not holding prime. When you start up do you see air bubbles and frothing in your pump basket?
 
Perhaps you are not holding prime. When you start up do you see air bubbles and frothing in your pump basket?
Nothing different than I’ve seen for the 3 years other than a couple months ago I wasn’t holding prime. A small hose (connects to chlorinator feeder) was leaking so I replaced it and resolved the issue.
More recent, I noticed minimal amount (drops) of water at the base of the chlorinator feeder but i haven’t noticed any issues with keeping prime. This fix will be more involved (pvc joints) so I will need to get a tech out. I hadn’t addressed it because I don’t use my chlorinator and the prime doesn’t seem to be effected. It’s so small it’s not even creating a puddle of water on my concrete pad. The slab remains dry underneath the chlorinator where this tiny leak has been discovered.

Do you think that very small leak could cause enough pressure loss to be an issue?
 
Update -
yesterday, raised FC to 14 and brushed the stubborn area multiple times. Anytime I added chlorine, I did directly over the area. At sunset, I raised FC to 16.

This morning my FC was 15, 0 CCs, and although the obvious brown-green streak was not visible it seems there was still a discoloration (eyes could be playing tricks by now) in the same area so I’m going to continue another day. Better safe than start over.

Water clarity seems to be better also.
 
Do you think that very small leak could cause enough pressure loss to be an issue?
No.

I am not sure you understand my question.

1. When you turn the pump off does water slowly drain out of the pump strainer basket even over a long period of time?

2. When you start the pump, is there ANY air in the pump strainer basket
The chlorinator is on the pressure side of your system so it is not in play.
 

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No.

I am not sure you understand my question.

1. When you turn the pump off does water slowly drain out of the pump strainer basket even over a long period of time?

2. When you start the pump, is there ANY air in the pump strainer basket
The chlorinator is on the pressure side of your system so it is not in play.


Sorry to hijack the post, but should the water drain out of the pump when it's off? Mine is, but not sure if this is new or not.
 
but should the water drain out of the pump when it's off? Mine is, but not sure if this is new or not.
It's somewhat related so I'll answer the question......No. A pool's circulatory system should be sealed completely from the atmosphere. The pump basket should always be completely full of water with no bubbles visible - pump running or not.

The reality is is that is VERY difficult to obtain. tiny leaks can actually seal themselves and reappear so to keep the system perfectly air-free is difficult.

If your pump primes in less than 30 seconds and you see no visible air in the pump basket, then that is probably good enough. Frothing and churning in the pump basket (pump running) is NOT good enough and you need to find that leak.
 
No.

I am not sure you understand my question.

1. When you turn the pump off does water slowly drain out of the pump strainer basket even over a long period of time?

2. When you start the pump, is there ANY air in the pump strainer basket
The chlorinator is on the pressure side of your system so it is not in play.
1 - no as of last Thursday (I haven’t had it off since I started SLAM so not sure about last few days).
Yes - about 2 months ago but I resolved that problem by replacing the leaking hose and a seal around the chlorinator lid.
2 - nothing different from the 3 years I’ve seen it operate. There are minimal small to large bubbles at the surface/near the view window of the lid when it turns on but usually dissipates shortly after. Water level in pump basket is full (ie touches the lid to the pump basket).
 
How long do you run your pump every day? If only a few hours, it might make sense to run it longer and see if you notice any change in your pool conditions. I used to have a sand filter, and I liked the easy backwashing, but my water clarity is much better now that I went to a Quad DE style filter. I believe the DE filter removes much smaller particles. I also run my pump 12 hours a day and keep FC levels above my FC/CYA target range.
 
But before this issue and over the last week or so I noticed when my pump turns on the pressure is low but once it runs for about 5-10 mins it’s back up to normal. Is this something I need to investigate more?
That took a while but I am now stumped as to why this is happening.....no clue
 
How long do you run your pump every day?
About 8-9 hrs (3-4 in the morning) and about 5hrs evening into night. Which is what I did last summer and had no problems until I went out of town this summer and let the FC levels get too low. I suspect as others have told me I just didn’t get rid of my problem (although I thought I had cause I passed the OCLT and then even did an extra day for good measure) on the SLAM I did in July.
I’ll keep the different filter system in mind.
Thank you
 
This morning
FC loss 0.5
CCs 0.5 (has been 0 in mornings through SLAM until today)
Water is clear

I may do another day of SLAM even though I technically passed because I’m concerned w the CCs as I understand it means there’s something the chlorine is attacking?
I just want to avoid this issue occurring again so soon like before.
 
You will never eliminate CC's. TFP teaches you to treat .5 CC as if it was 0 CC.

1. Your Pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae
2. You passed the OCLT losing not more than 1 ppm of FC
3. Your CC's test is either .5 ppm or 0 ppm.

You are done with your SLAM if you can answer yes to the 3 criteria. Let you FC drift down to maintenance level and keep it there.
 
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You will never eliminate CC's. TFP teaches you to treat .5 CC as if it was 0 CC.

1. Your Pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae
2. You passed the OCLT losing not more than 1 ppm of FC
3. Your CC's test is either .5 ppm or 0 ppm.

You are done with your SLAM if you can answer yes to the 3 criteria. Let you FC drift down to maintenance level and keep it there.
Thanks for your help through this one!
 

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