Polaris 280 Booster Pump Starting but not Working

[BullishBear]

My Polaris 280 Booster Pump starts (at least sounds like it does) and then after 5-8 seconds the pump motor's sound turns to a humming sound. I read Polaris Pool Cleaners - Further Reading to understand the basics of booster pump and that my model 2"8"0 does not work without booster pump. I was all along trying to fix my cleaner but just figured out the booster pump problem. I searched TPF forums and found Polaris booster pump troubleshooting to be similar to my case but the thread did not wrap. In the listed troubleshooting steps, I found replacing the capacitor to be easiest so gave it a try. I did not find the exact capacitor replacement as mine had a different capacitor (snapshots attached, also motor seems to be this, again photos attached) from the usual 115V-230V range BC-124 that comes with PB4-60 pump. I picked this BC-124 equivalent from Leslie's store and replaced it but no luck! Same observation made: Motor starts on switching the button, the motor sound stops and continues to give low humming sound, the panel board shows Cleaner circuit is on.

Given the capacitor is ruled out, following are my questions:
1. Any pro-tips or security tips when taking off the motor to examine shaft or using multi meter!
2. I have home warranty, and I just learnt they cover cleaner's booster pumps. The only caveat is they take their own sweet time to check and resolve. Any quick DIY tricks to attempt this first instead?

 

[Bperry]

My Polaris 280 Booster Pump starts (at least sounds like it does) and then after 5-8 seconds the pump motor's sound turns to a humming sound. I read Polaris Pool Cleaners - Further Reading to understand the basics of booster pump and that my model 2"8"0 does not work without booster pump. I was all along trying to fix my cleaner but just figured out the booster pump problem. I searched TPF forums and found Polaris booster pump troubleshooting to be similar to my case but the thread did not wrap. In the listed troubleshooting steps, I found replacing the capacitor to be easiest so gave it a try. I did not find the exact capacitor replacement as mine had a different capacitor (snapshots attached, also motor seems to be this, again photos attached) from the usual 115V-230V range BC-124 that comes with PB4-60 pump. I picked this BC-124 equivalent from Leslie's store and replaced it but no luck! Same observation made: Motor starts on switching the button, the motor sound stops and continues to give low humming sound, the panel board shows Cleaner circuit is on.

Given the capacitor is ruled out, following are my questions:
1. Any pro-tips or security tips when taking off the motor to examine shaft or using multi meter!
2. I have home warranty, and I just learnt they cover cleaner's booster pumps. The only caveat is they take their own sweet time to check and resolve. Any quick DIY tricks to attempt this first instead?

Disconnect it from power before doing anything.

Also, don’t hold your breath on the home warranty. My prediction is that one of two things happen(make sure to reply back if I’m wrong should you go that route)
1. They reply back that a qualified repair center is unavailable and that you can have the device repaired and submit the bill back to them for reimbursement. Then when you try and get reimbursed, they tell you that you had to first get approval of the actual quote from the person who did the repair and so the claim is denied because you didn’t follow the procedure correctly.

2. They will send a repair person out and after writing them a check for $60 (or whatever your fee is) the guy will say the motor is dead and you need a new one. Then you go through the process #1 above.

Either way you pay for the pump yourself.

 

[1poolman1]

My Polaris 280 Booster Pump starts (at least sounds like it does) and then after 5-8 seconds the pump motor's sound turns to a humming sound. I read Polaris Pool Cleaners - Further Reading to understand the basics of booster pump and that my model 2"8"0 does not work without booster pump. I was all along trying to fix my cleaner but just figured out the booster pump problem. I searched TPF forums and found Polaris booster pump troubleshooting to be similar to my case but the thread did not wrap. In the listed troubleshooting steps, I found replacing the capacitor to be easiest so gave it a try. I did not find the exact capacitor replacement as mine had a different capacitor (snapshots attached, also motor seems to be this, again photos attached) from the usual 115V-230V range BC-124 that comes with PB4-60 pump. I picked this BC-124 equivalent from Leslie's store and replaced it but no luck! Same observation made: Motor starts on switching the button, the motor sound stops and continues to give low humming sound, the panel board shows Cleaner circuit is on.

Given the capacitor is ruled out, following are my questions:
1. Any pro-tips or security tips when taking off the motor to examine shaft or using multi meter!
2. I have home warranty, and I just learnt they cover cleaner's booster pumps. The only caveat is they take their own sweet time to check and resolve. Any quick DIY tricks to attempt this first instead?

Polaris PB4-60 motor is different than a standard C-frame threaded-shaft motor (the one referenced). Though they look very similar, the shaft is longer on the booster-pump motor for the PB4-60.

With the motor "running," look at the shaft through the motor bracket. Is it turning? You can carefully use a small stick to feel it if you can't tell. If it is turning you likely have a broken/melted impeller. That can happen if the booster pump runs dry for any length of time.

 

[BullishBear]

@1poolman1 Thanks. I just got back home and tried the suggestions. Because the pool setup is bit tight, couldn't go very close to view inside thru small holes in the pump casing. But I'm able to observe the following:
1. The shaft from the motor casing to the impeller housing being stagnant and not turning when the cleaner circuit is turned on.
2. With a popsicle stick, I was able to feel, the motor casing vibrating for 4-5 seconds and stops. Accidentally, I was around and noticed it waited for about 2 mins and the cycle repeats i.e. motor casing starts making normal sound and vibrates for 4-5 seconds; stops; repeats again in 2 mins.

Attached timer laps for reference. Lap 1 is start; Lap 2 is the wait time before next round; and so on.

Does this mean, the motor is OK and there is some kind of safety mechanism which stops the motor if the shaft is not moving the impeller or the shaft itself is stuck for more than 4-5 seconds and retries again? Not sure whether such smartness will be inbuilt in these booster pumps but my observation so far alludes that way. Any bells ringing for you and rest of the TFP fam?

 

[BullishBear]

Also copying @Texas Splash @Newdude @ajw22 - my usual advisors

 

[Texas Splash]

I'm afraid I'm not much help on this one as I don't have a Polaris.

 

[ajw22]

You tried replacing the capacitor. Next step is dig into the pump further and disconnect the motor from the wet end. Examine the impeller. See if the motor runs on your workbench.

If you don't like what you find then buy a new pump.

 

[duraleigh]

Consider purchasing a robot and getting rid of 280. The technology and development favors robots. They will do a better job and save you some electricity

 

[1poolman1]

@1poolman1 Thanks. I just got back home and tried the suggestions. Because the pool setup is bit tight, couldn't go very close to view inside thru small holes in the pump casing. But I'm able to observe the following:
1. The shaft from the motor casing to the impeller housing being stagnant and not turning when the cleaner circuit is turned on.
2. With a popsicle stick, I was able to feel, the motor casing vibrating for 4-5 seconds and stops. Accidentally, I was around and noticed it waited for about 2 mins and the cycle repeats i.e. motor casing starts making normal sound and vibrates for 4-5 seconds; stops; repeats again in 2 mins.

Attached timer laps for reference. Lap 1 is start; Lap 2 is the wait time before next round; and so on.

Does this mean, the motor is OK and there is some kind of safety mechanism which stops the motor if the shaft is not moving the impeller or the shaft itself is stuck for more than 4-5 seconds and retries again? Not sure whether such smartness will be inbuilt in these booster pumps but my observation so far alludes that way. Any bells ringing for you and rest of the TFP fam?

Motor is not turning though it is being powered. It overheats and trips the protection device, cools and starts the cycle again again. Most likely bad bearings from a seal leak, but anything that prevents the motor from turning will cause this.

 

[BullishBear]

@Texas Splash Good one. I love Office!
@ajw22 Thanks, it's kinda overwhelming but I will try my best!
@duraleigh Yes, I'm thinking on those lines except one part of me asks to revive the current setup as they are looking good and working as expected until the booster pump stopped working.
@1poolman1 Thank you, that makes total sense now. Regarding seal leak, wouldn't it be noticeable with leaking water or something? The setup remains dry with or without the pump circuit is on.

Thank you fam for sharing your suggestions!