Plumbing routing question…

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vtpools said:
Depends on the manufacturer, but I'd still say it's worth it on the off chance that there's an issue with the cell. A check valve is cheap insurance for a big investment on a heater.
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VT,

I think you missed the whole point. A check valve is required when you use a tab feeder because when pump is off the highly acidic tab feeder water can flow backward into the heater. A SWCG does not have anything that can flow back into the heater. When it is off, it is off there is nothing there. Adding a check valve is just not needed. I agree that it won't hurt anything, but why add anything this is not needed?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
I think you missed the whole point. A check valve is required when you use a tab feeder because when pump is off the highly acidic tab feeder water can flow backward into the heater. A SWCG does not have anything that can flow back into the heater. When it is off, it is off there is nothing there. Adding a check valve is just not needed. I agree that it won't hurt anything, but why add anything this is not needed?
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I did not miss the point, and I also understand I'm not going to win the argument here. We're going to have to agree to disagree on this one. I see no reason not to, I also wouldn't say that there's nothing that can flow back into the filter. If anything, it helps my peace of mind on a new installation. As I said, cheap insurance.
 
I know I don't have the pedigree or number of posts as others here, but agree with VT. It is cheap insurance and depending on the manufacturer, part of the installation instructions. In the event there is an issue, the OP's warranty could be null because of a faulty install. No one here on the chat is going to pay for their heater...and unfortunately, neither is the manufacturer if they recommend a CV and it wasn't installed. Why give the easy out, when a $50 part can solve the potential problem for a $4k+ heater?

This is my $0.02...Caveat Emptor
 
js,

Can you show me a single case where a heater warranty was declined due to no check valve when only a SWCG was involved? My pull it out my rear guess is that heater corrosion takes way longer than any heater warranty.

It is science that causes heater damage, not magic.

Anyway... If the pool owner wants a check valve, I have no problem. My only problem is saying that a check valve is necessary to prevent heater damage when only a SWCG is being used.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim,

I can't provide any case where that has occurred, but likewise you can't prove it hasn't happened either. My point is that if the manufacturer says to install it and you don't, they have the power to decline your warranty case due to not following simple directions. We could go round and round about this fact, but it happens every day in America.

What I am describing has nothing to do with science or magic, but I can agree that poor chemistry would be a leading cause of heater failure. I am just saying if the manufacturer says install a CV, then do it, If they say install the SWCG 3ft past the heater outlet, do it. Don't give the company an excuse to deny your warranty.

Again to the OP, Caveat Emptor.
 
jsmithsae said:
Jim,

I can't provide any case where that has occurred, but likewise you can't prove it hasn't
What I am describing has nothing to do with science or magic, but I can agree that poor chemistry would be a leading cause of heater failure. I am just saying if the manufacturer says install a CV, then do it, If they say install the SWCG 3ft past the heater outlet, do it. Don't give the company an excuse to deny your warranty.

Again to the OP, Caveat Emptor.
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Yes we can all agree that poor chemistry can possibly damage a heater BUT that chemistry would start before the pump presumably in the pool or someone using dry acid in the skimmer then again the cv after the heater is a dead horse.
Oh, I've never seen swcg recommendation 3ft after the heater.
 
jsmithsae said:
I can't provide any case where that has occurred, but likewise you can't prove it hasn't happened either. My point is that if the manufacturer says to install it and you don't, they have the power to decline your warranty case due to not following simple directions.
Click to expand...
My in floor cleaning system manual had specific instructions on how to plumb when installing a SWCG, basically bypassing the IFCS when the SWCG was operating. When I asked the PB about it, because they did not plumb it that way, and the PB had never read the manual, he got me in touch with the manufacturer's engineering dept. and they were like, "uhhh, no it should not be plumbed like that. It makes no sense." My point being that just because it is in the manual, doesn't mean that even the manufacturer agrees with it.

--Jeff
 
All,

I think we have covered both sides of this "Check valve after the heater issue" so let's get back to the OP's questions.

This kind of started with someone saying the check valve was on the wrong side of the SWCG. I think the OP's set up has the check valve on the output side of the SWCG because the pool is above the equipment pad.

My guess is that the current check valve is there to prevent a flood when the cell is removed for inspection or cleaning.

Any comments on that idea?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I'm in the metal stamping business and get engineers prints from customer with all the specs. Many times the part can't be produced to the print design and I needed to get it changed. Not everything the engineers write is always right.
 
wireform said:
Yes we can all agree that poor chemistry can possibly damage a heater BUT that chemistry would start before the pump presumably in the pool or someone using dry acid in the skimmer then again the cv after the heater is a dead horse.
Oh, I've never seen swcg recommendation 3ft after the heater.
Click to expand...

Read the document. Clearly states on pages 4 & 5:
The IntelliChlor SCG should be at least three (3) feet away from the heater outlet.
 
Actually, edit as they've appeared to have updated the reccomended chemistry levels to 30-50 CYA and 2-4 ppm FC. So it's less wrong now, but still littered with bullfeathers such as a FC above 4 may cause corrosion or that to attain a TDS with a salt pool, the pool store must subtract the salt level from the total so that it accurately reflects the # a chlorine pool would have. (Also having salt, but not subtracted)


Anywho, the point was that we here rely on oodles of real world members experiences. The manufacturers and industry are often at odds with what we've all found.
 
wireform said:
On page 4 it also states "Note: For best flow sensing, provide at least 12"-18" of straight pipe in front of the cell inlet" but in the diagram it's off a 90 deg bend juss sayin.
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They also said "Not to scale" but hey, who reads install documents and actually follows them. And if you provide 12-18in off the bend, it meets the install guide.

At the end of the day, the buyer is the one who could suffer...not us internet cowboys.
 
jsmithsae said:
At the end of the day, the buyer is the one who could suffer...not us internet cowboys
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So would the user of a SWG rated by them at 1X per pool volume, maintaining a CYA of 30 in a hot climate.

If we can question most of the manual, it calls the whole manual into question.

But also worth noting, if you are gonna buck TFP wisdom and blindly follow the manufacturer, *this* is when to do it as it will cause no harm. Heck, run a 12 ft pipe to the SWG and win the trophy for the least turbulent water in a SWG. Somebody has to have that honor, right ? Might as well be you. (y)
 
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