Plumbing Design Review

back_yard_lap_pool

Silver Supporter
Jun 16, 2016
262
Houston/TX
Hi y'all
I'm wrapping up pool design and trying to go for a functional single-pump plumbing layout. (Going to bid next week)

I would appreciate any commentary, suggestions, etc.!

Thank you in advance.

Pool: (Single Body) 82.5K gallons / Spa 1.5K
Pump: Pentair Intelliflo XF
Filter: Pentair Quad DE 100
Heater: Pentair 400K BTU Master Temp NG Cupro-Nickel
Controller: Pentair i9+3

Water Features: (2) 36" Sheer Descents on Back Wall & (2) Pressure Ports for aerial cooler sprays
Drains: (1 spa, 1 pool) Paramount Superflo 360
Leaf Collection: (1 spa, 1 pool) Paramount Deck Debris Canister with MV-Fuse SVRS
Skimmers: (4) Paramount Paraskim V Venturi
Auto-fill: Paramount Paralevel


Screen Shot 2017-03-15 at 7.56.13 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2017-03-15 at 7.57.05 PM.jpg

Basic set-up:

Drains:
Pool Drain + 4 skimmer lines | Spa Drain

Returns:
Sheer Descent Return | Pressure Port Returns
Spa Return
Wall (Chemical) return
Floor (Heat) return

Guesstimate on Pipe schedule:
Drains:
1: 3” pipe from Pool drain
4: 2” pipes from 4 Skimmers
1: 3” pipe from Spa drain

Returns
1: 3” pipe to Spa Loop
3: 2” Pipes to 6 Pool Returns
3: 2” Pipes to 8 Floor Returns
4: 1.5” Pipes to 4 Venturi Returns
1: 2” Pipe to Sheer Descents
2: 2” Pipes to Pressure Ports

Other Pipes
1: 2” Pipe run to Spa Air Loop
1: 1.5” Water Level equalizer pipe @ Spa to pool
1: ¾” Pipe run to auto-filler
1: ¾” Pipe sump pump run from Convo Pit to grass
1: 2” Yellow Natural Gas Pipe to Heater

6” Street Drain Line
4: 2” Overflow Pipes from Venturi Skimmers
8: Deck / Area Drains
1: 2” Pipe from Multi-Port Valve for waste drain
 

TexasDeano

Gold Supporter
Aug 13, 2015
137
Frisco, Texas
One thing that I had added (based on a suggestion from someone on TFP) is to plumb the heater so that it can be bypassed. That requires a three-way valve on the line going into th heater, and a check-valve on the line coming out of the heater. And then a line from the three-way to the pool side of the check-valve. This allows you to completely bypass the heater when you're not using it. The theory being that water running through the heater is the main effect on its lifespan, so if you can prevent water flow for X amount of time it should increase the life of the heater by X. Or something like that. It also makes it easier to work on the heater if you ever half to.

Now you have a spa so you'll use your heater more often than I will (pool only.) But it still might be something to consider.
 

back_yard_lap_pool

Silver Supporter
Jun 16, 2016
262
Houston/TX
One thing that I had added (based on a suggestion from someone on TFP) is to plumb the heater so that it can be bypassed. That requires a three-way valve on the line going into th heater, and a check-valve on the line coming out of the heater. And then a line from the three-way to the pool side of the check-valve. This allows you to completely bypass the heater when you're not using it. The theory being that water running through the heater is the main effect on its lifespan, so if you can prevent water flow for X amount of time it should increase the life of the heater by X. Or something like that. It also makes it easier to work on the heater if you ever half to.

Now you have a spa so you'll use your heater more often than I will (pool only.) But it still might be something to consider.
Thanks! I modified the schematic to show an intellivalve controlled 3-way before heater - tying to to the bypass. This should let me also do a partial bypass if I'm pushing more than 120gpm when in spa mode or pool heating mode. I believe the flow-vis meters are de facto check valves, so I should be set on that front...


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