Planning out a Wilbar Quest (Pool Factory) 24' AGP build

ScottMB

Member
Mar 26, 2021
7
East Lansing MI
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello! I'm putting all of my plans together to submit a building permit to install my new pool, and I'm running across things I don't yet know. Can you help?

1) How do I *really* need to treat the water when I first fill this? This will be via hose from the municipal water supply and it looks like the pool (24' diameter x 54" high) will be in the 13500 gallon range. I've read the ABCs of Water Chem post here and Pool Factory blog that recommends I basically use all of the chemicals that came in their yearly maintenance kit. I do understand that I need to get the alkalinity and pH correct, then their instructions say to shock it with 2.5 pounds of shock. Then 30 oz of algaecide. Then chlorine. I will be installing a Hayward CL200 auto-chlorinator.

If that's really what needs to happen, great (and I'll be ordering a second maint kit now before the chemicals are gone for the season). They've been a great company to work with so far - and they are in the business of selling supplies so a second opinion for first time water seems like a reasonable approach.

2) Where in the plumbing do slice valves go? I have 2 because being able to shut off water real quick sounds like a good thing, but I'm not sure where to put them. So far my diagram has:

Skimmer direct thread to Perma-Cast bonding plug in a PVC tee, to filter & pump, out into a 3 way diverter valve, one branch goes to 2x EcoSaver Solar Domes in series (they provide flow reducers to protect the dome equipment) and the other branch goes to 150K BTU natural gas heater. Both paths will come into a 3 way valve (something like a Hayward SP0730 ball valve, either/or) then the common pipe goes into a check valve (probably Jandy 7235 diameter TBD), then into the chlorinator, then into the pool. I'll draw this up and post it in a reply over the weekend to make this a little more clear.

3) Could anyone share dimensions and/or pictures of one of this model pool built - specifically the location and distance of the skimmer and return openings? I'm trying to figure out the layout of the heater and pump and it will help me know if the skimmer is on the left or right of the return, and how far apart they are.

A lot of questions from a newbie - thank you for your help and patience with me :)
 
The only thing I can answer is your first question, and the answer would be no. You need a quality test kit like the TFT test kit. Fill up the pool (or better yet, test your water before you fill it up), and then add only what you need. Basically, you'll need stabilizer (CYA) and you'll need plain bleach or pool chlorine. Then you may need to adjust Ph. It looks like they are instructing you to just dump a bunch of stuff in without even testing to see what you need. Good luck with your install!
 
Skimmer direct thread to Perma-Cast bonding plug in a PVC tee, to slice valve to filter & pump, out into a 3 way diverter valve, one branch goes to 2x EcoSaver Solar Domes in series (they provide flow reducers to protect the dome equipment) and the other branch goes to 150K BTU natural gas heater. Both paths will come into a 3 way valve (something like a Hayward SP0730 ball valve, either/or) then the common pipe goes into a check valve (probably Jandy 7235 diameter TBD), then into the chlorinator, to slice valve then into the pool.
 
Hello! I'm putting all of my plans together to submit a building permit to install my new pool, and I'm running across things I don't yet know. Can you help?

1) How do I *really* need to treat the water when I first fill this? This will be via hose from the municipal water supply and it looks like the pool (24' diameter x 54" high) will be in the 13500 gallon range. I've read the ABCs of Water Chem post here and Pool Factory blog that recommends I basically use all of the chemicals that came in their yearly maintenance kit. I do understand that I need to get the alkalinity and pH correct, then their instructions say to shock it with 2.5 pounds of shock. Then 30 oz of algaecide. Then chlorine. I will be installing a Hayward CL200 auto-chlorinator.

If that's really what needs to happen, great (and I'll be ordering a second maint kit now before the chemicals are gone for the season). They've been a great company to work with so far - and they are in the business of selling supplies so a second opinion for first time water seems like a reasonable approach.
...
A lot of questions from a newbie - thank you for your help and patience with me :)
Welcome to TFP!! There is SO much information, help and support to be found here for Pool owners who want to do it right!

That being said, I don't think a chemical maintenance kit will be your best direction...
Also, does the Auto-chlorinator use pucks? (pucks are stabilized chlorine; fine for start-up (you need a bit of CYA/stabilizer to protect the chlorine in the pool water) and when away on vacation for a time), but daily use will continually raise your stabilizer levels, which will raise your chlorine needs (chlorine gets used up, stabilizer only goes away with splash-out/draining).
You will want to invest in the best price liquid chlorine (possibly called liquid shock or 12.5% sodium hypochlorite) for your area. Your pool chlorine will need to be stored in dark, cool place (heat destroys chlorine)

As already mentioned, get a GOOD (aka complete) pool water test kit! Knowledge IS power in this case. Once you can test your water (source & eventually filled pool), then you can buy ONLY the chemicals you need (chlorine, stabilizer, along with possibly baking soda or muriatiac acid - both for adjusting PH *if needed). It saves SO much money long-term, starting the Right way!
 
Thank you, splash! Yes, the chlorinator uses pucks. I appreciate all the suggestions, no crazy maintenance kits for me :). I'm buying the TF test kit shortly so that will definitely help. Also getting prices on liquid chlorine from the local shops.

It will be several weeks, but I'll update when I have more news :)
 
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