Planning an equipment pad overhaul

[cope360]

Hey all, long time lurker here. I'm gearing up to do a major update to my equipment and would like to get some advise. This equip was in bad shape 9 years ago when I bought the house and I've done the minimum to keep it running. Now I am ready to get it in good shape.

Current Equipment:

• Hayward H250 Natural Gas Heater
  • Has not worked in 9+ years
• Pentair 011018 IntelliFlo Variable Speed Pump, 3 HP
  • Installed 2017, newer than rest of equipment
  • April 2023 pool service rebuilt with new seals and gaskets
  • Currently leaking again
• Polaris PB4-60 Booster Pump
  • Died once in 2021 Ice Storm but revived with a new capacitor
  • Died again August 2024 and new capacitor didn't help
• Hayward Pro-Grid DE Filter
  • Leaks around the seal sometimes
  • Seems to work fine although I have to replace a few grids each year
• Valves are all Jandy, most older than 2015 when I bought the house
  • Check valves got new guts after their covers cracked in 2021 freeze
• Piping
  • Almost everything is 2"
  • The Spa Spillover return is 1.5"
  • There are more couplings then pipe in some places from years of hack job repairs
  • There are a few DWV fittings since all the pressure fittings were sold out after the 2021 storm
• Intermatic Timing Center
  • There are no breakers in here, just two timers, GFCI outlet, and everything joined with wire nuts.

Planned Updates:

• New heater - Pentair MasterTemp(R) Digital High Performance Low NOx Pool and Spa Heater; 250000 BTU; Natural Gas
• New automation and load center - Intellicenter I5PS Pool/Spa Control
  • Wire pump and heater serial connections for full control from Intellicenter
  • Install included valve actuators
• Remove booster pump (it is broken) and cap the line. Change to Dolphin cleaner.
• Replace all above ground piping
• Add drain plugs or spigots in case of another extended freeze and power outage (7 days below freezing, 4 days without power)

Specific Questions:

1. Should I try to reuse the valves? Most are connected using the 2" inside connection so I could cut them off and use a 2.5" to 2" reducing coupling.
2. Is the assumed underground connection from filter to heater likely correct (see pic)? In all the photos I look at of other pads this connection does not go back underground.
3. Any recommendations on layout?
   1. I hate how convoluted it is now and accessing the pump basket and control panel is an awkward reach.
   2. It seems like going left-to-right with heater-filter-pump would be better.
4. Do I need more check valves?
   1. This pad is ~3 feet about the pool. When turning on the pump it takes a few minutes to prime and then blows a lot of air out the returns. Is that normal?
5. Is there any hope for the Multiport valve? I'd really like to redo the connections to and from it but I think drilling it out with a socket saver would be the only option.
6. Any other recommendations or observations?

Thanks in advance! This became a long post.

 

[ajw22]

You should install an IntelliChlor SWG and remove the tablet chlorinator which will murder your new heater.

1. Should I try to reuse the valves? Most are connected using the 2" inside connection so I could cut them off and use a 2.5" to 2" reducing coupling.

Decide which valves are reuseable when you cut them out. Examine the condition of the diverter and the internal seal and see if they are worn.

1. Is the assumed underground connection from filter to heater likely correct (see pic)? In all the photos I look at of other pads this connection does not go back underground.

It is logical to assume that. I would have run the pipe back towards the wall, then along the wall to reach the heater so that the pipe is not buried.

1. Any recommendations on layout?
   1. I hate how convoluted it is now and accessing the pump basket and control panel is an awkward reach.
   2. It seems like going left-to-right with heater-filter-pump would be better.

Line up the pump so that it has straight pipe from the suction manifold into the pump. Right now you have a zig zag that is not optimal. You cannot really move the suction manifold so the straight run into the pump defines where the pump will sit.

Then the filter to the right of the pump and heater on the left is the best layout.

Run the pipe from the filter to the heater as described above.

Install an automated heater bypass - Heater Bypass - Further Reading

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/parts-sheets/heaters/pentair_heater_auto_bypass_valve_replacement%20_kit.pdf

• Do I need more check valves?
  1. This pad is ~3 feet about the pool. When turning on the pump it takes a few minutes to prime and then blows a lot of air out the returns. Is that normal?

No you do not need check valves.

• Is there any hope for the Multiport valve? I'd really like to redo the connections to and from it but I think drilling it out with a socket saver would be the only option.

You can try and reuse the MPV and see how it goes.

I don't know why the pipe from the pump to the MPV was put too high requiring two 909's to line it up. IT looks like the plumber was drink and did not know how to measure pipes accurately.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[cope360]

You should install an IntelliChlor SWG and remove the tablet chlorinator which will murder your new heater.

Can you explain this more? There is a check valve after the heater which I understand is to prevent super chlorinated water from backwashing into the heater.

No you do not need check valves.

Do you mean I don't need any additional or I don't need any at all? Both returns to the spa and the suction on the skimmers currently have them.

I had assumed that my problems with priming were because the water drains back down to pool level from the higher equip level and these valves were intended to prevent that. Is it normal to take 2-5 minutes for the main pump to prime?

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Very useful, thank you!

 

[jark87]

I can’t comment on plumbing and technical aspects, but since you’re in Austin, have you considered a chiller? You’re planning to replace the heater, so you may want to consider a heat pump that also chills. Or a Glacier. Our pool was basically unusable after early July due to water temps in the 90s until I added a chiller.

Also, you plan to replace the pressure side cleaner with a robot. I know a couple of people who have done the same and regretted it because of the short robot lifespan and the need to move the robot in and out of storage when using. Just something to think about before you cap that line.

Good luck!

 

[Homebrewale]

I wouldn't cap the pressure side cleaner line. As suggested, you may reconsider your method of cleaning. The line can also be used as an extra return to the pool. I left the line on my pool. There was a nice circulation of water in the pool due to that line.

 

[ajw22]

Can you explain this more? There is a check valve after the heater which I understand is to prevent super chlorinated water from backwashing into the heater.

First of all it is not he "super chlorinated water" that damages the heater. It is backflow of acidic water from the acid in the Trichlor tables that damage the check valve causing it to leak and then it gets into the heater and kills it. That is all done silently while you believe the check valve is protecting your heater.

Do you mean I don't need any additional or I don't need any at all? Both returns to the spa and the suction on the skimmers currently have them.

The CVs on the spa returns are needed to prevent the spa from draining back through the returns when the pump is off.

I don't know why you need a CB on the skimmer line but since it is there I would leave it be.

I had assumed that my problems with priming were because the water drains back down to pool level from the higher equip level and these valves were intended to prevent that. Is it normal to take 2-5 minutes for the main pump to prime?

Modern pumps are designed for a long prime. As long as your pump prime cycle does not time out then you are good.

 

[cope360]

I can’t comment on plumbing and technical aspects, but since you’re in Austin, have you considered a chiller? You’re planning to replace the heater, so you may want to consider a heat pump that also chills. Or a Glacier. Our pool was basically unusable after early July due to water temps in the 90s until I added a chiller.

I would love a chiller! Unfortunately the rest of the family really likes warm water. Good idea on the heat pump that can do both.

Also, you plan to replace the pressure side cleaner with a robot. I know a couple of people who have done the same and regretted it because of the short robot lifespan and the need to move the robot in and out of storage when using. Just something to think about before you cap that line.

This seems to be a common sentiment. I really dislike the current pressure cleaner. I'll see if I get more annoyed by the robot. I won't be hard to switch back at some point since the plumbing will still be there -- cut of the cap and reattach the booster pump.