Pink Algae in chlorine pool - help!

[JamesW]

Taylor's K-100

No such thing.

However, I plan on going to the pool store this evening for a water test and will post chemistry readings by tomorrow.

If you ever want to take control of your pool, you need your own good FASDPD test kit and you need to follow a proper SLAM process, which cannot be done without a FASDPD kit.

We do not really like or trust pool store readings, so you can post them, but we will not have any confidence in the readings.

Relying on the pool store is going to result in endless frustration as you have already found out.

About 50% of the pink algae/slime brushes off. It is pink algae as it's slimy

I can't tell what the pink is.

Maybe it is organic, I have no idea.

In my opinion, it is most likely copper cyanurate.

I suspect that you have high CYA and probably high copper from the algaecide that you have used.

The pool looks like fiberglass to me.

 

[JamesW]

Pool Care Basics

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

SLAM Process

PoolMath

FC/CYA Levels

Test Kits Compared

 

[JamesW]

Did you have the pool built or was it there when you bought the house?

Have you ever had the pool resurfaced?

Gunite/Plaster does not use screws in the fittings.

This is fiberglass.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Please do not go to the pool store. They are salivating waiting for you to come in again. Unless you are using the store on Cactus Rd in Glendale where the girl acts as though you're interrupting her day. If you have the TF100 then you should have the DPD powder which is the key to correct chlorine testing. So with that kit you can post all the numbers we or even you need to set you on the correct path. Then stock up on liquid chlorine because you will likely be going on the SLAM trip.

 

[sued]

Did you have the pool built or was it there when you bought the house?

Have you ever had the pool resurfaced?

Gunite/Plaster does not use screws in the fittings.

This is fiberglass.

View attachment 608457

Pool was there when I bought it in 1996. I inherited pool guy who oversaw installation of pool in late 80's. He said it was installed with concrete pre made shells and coated (sprayed) with gunite. A few pool specialists have since commented that it was gunite. Unfortunately my pool guy has long since retired so that's all I know.

 

[TinFoilHat]

I would say that response was doubtful as I would bet a gunite pool would break apart if transported. You might just have a fiberglass pool after all. The surface finish and area around the return in your pic certainly do not look like gunite. Besides, gunite would be rough and would need to be coated with plaster to smooth it which still wouldn't have the texture you show.

 

[sued]

Please do not go to the pool store. They are salivating waiting for you to come in again. Unless you are using the store on Cactus Rd in Glendale where the girl acts as though you're interrupting her day. If you have the TF100 then you should have the DPD powder which is the key to correct chlorine testing. So with that kit you can post all the numbers we or even you need to set you on the correct path. Then stock up on liquid chlorine because you will likely be going on the SLAM trip.

I don't go to the store often because it's too far and usually only to get a testing of the water and chlorine. Long ago a pool specialist told me all I primarily need is chlorine, baking soda, and algaecide to maintain the pool. No chance I can't just use chlorine shock? I've done the liquid chlorine SLAM process many times and the amount I need for a 40k pool makes it heavy, bulky, and messy but will do so again if recommended.

 

[TinFoilHat]

For the time being, if you don't have a Taylor 2006c kit or a TF Testkits TF100 or TFPro then order one of these so you can properly test your own water (you won't find one locally.) Then while waiting for the kit to arrive (Taylor is slower and TF has the best kit in the TFPro) put 5 ppm of liquid chlorine into the running pool daily. After your kit arrives you can post the numbers and go from there.

 

[sued]

I would say that response was doubtful as I would bet a gunite pool would break apart if transported. You might just have a fiberglass pool after all. The surface finish and area around the return in your pic certainly do not look like gunite. Besides, gunite would be rough and would need to be coated with plaster to smooth it which still wouldn't have the texture you show.

Pool guy said it was transported in concrete shells. I can actually feel a continuous horizontal seam at the bottom towards the middle of the pool. It's possible it was coated with fiberglass as the texture is smooth.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Very strange, but then it's still a really old pool from the old days when weird things happened.

 

[JamesW]

He said it was installed with concrete pre made shells and coated (sprayed) with gunite.

Pool guy said it was transported in concrete shells.

I do not know what that is.

In my opinion, it is probably a hybrid pool with fiberglass walls and a concrete bottom.

In any case, get a proper test kit and post a full set of chemistry readings.

 

[Newdude]

I've done the liquid chlorine SLAM process many times

Not without a reliable test kit. When done properly, you could need 5 or maybe even 10 tests a day. You weren't making that many trips to the store and the basic test kits don't read high enough for slam FC.

Needing to slam many times is from not maintaining a sanitary pool in the first place. Needing to slam many times in a row (if so) is from not doing it properly the first time.

All kinds of things happen that use up more FC than a normal day. It's your job to beat it to the punch so when they happen, you're still free and clear above minimum.

Pink slime is a bacteria. It wouldn't grow if there was adequate chlorine in there.

 

[proavia]

Since you've been a member here for years and don't have access to the old account, scroll to the bottom of the page and click the Contact Us link.
Provide as many details as possible there and maybe @Leebo can get your two accounts linked.

You really need to stop going to the pool store. Their testing is inaccurate and so is the information they are providing.
Don't waste your time going to the pool store or posting their results here.
Do you have one of the recommended test kits and in-date reagents? Test Kits Compared
If not, get one of the test kits ordered ASAP and we can help you get your pool sorted.

Test Kits

tftestkits.net

The TF-Pro or TF-Pro Salt (if you have a SWG) would be the best overall value.

Once your test kit arrives, post a full set of current test results from that kit.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (if using a SWG)
Water temperature

You can also use PoolMath for entering and saving your test results. Be sure to link PoolMath to your forum account so we can see your results.

In looking at the pics you posted, your pool isn't plaster as screws aren't used for skimmers or returns in a plaster pool. Likely it's fiberglass (maybe over a gunite/cement base?) or vinyl liner.

 

[sued]

You just copy and pasted straight from the link I provided. You claim to be following said process for longer than it has existed. You already said you've been going to the pool store for "shock and baking soda" which doesn't sound like the SLAM Process in any form. Oh, and you said you followed the process twice in a week, which is rather unlikely given the criteria required to call the process complete.

Somehow I'm skeptical...

Yes I did 'copy and paste' because that's what I follow. I get chlorine from pool store or order calcium hypochlorite shock online using about 12lbs for 40k gallon pool and buy large bags of baking soda from Sam's Club. BTW, I don't appreciate being second guessed. Everything I've read about pink algae is that's is very difficult to remove. I originally asked at the end of my post if anyone knows about the product Pink Treat which is supposed to completely remove it and how if I should close my pool if there is still pink algae.

 

[JamesW]

buy large bags of baking soda from Sam's Club.

Baking soda is not part of the SLAM process.

BTW, I don't appreciate being second guessed.

Relax, no one is being disrespectful.

If you knew what you were doing, you would not need to ask.

I originally asked at the end of my post if anyone knows about the product Pink Treat which is supposed to completely remove it

You should know by now that we do not endorse products like "Pink" Treat or "Yellow" Treat or any other such potions.

 

[Newdude]

or order calcium hypochlorite shock online using about 12lbs for 40k gallon pool

That's 28FC if using 73% when you could need much more.

Everything I've read about pink algae is that's is very difficult to remove.

It's bacteria. With enough chlorine, it dies.

I originally asked at the end of my post if anyone knows about the product Pink Treat

It is sodium bromide. If you add enough of it, you'll have a bromine pool going forward. It is not reccomended.

how if I should close my pool if there is still pink algae.

You should SLAM following it to a T with a proper test kit. Then close while sanitary.

BTW, I don't appreciate being second guessed

You have several people legit trying to help, but you're unwilling to listen.

 

[sued]

That's 28FC if using 73% when you could need much more.

It's bacteria. With enough chlorine, it dies.



It is sodium bromide. If you add enough of it, you'll have a bromine pool going forward. It is not reccomended.

You should SLAM following it to a T with a proper test kit. Then close while sanitary.


You have several people legit trying to help, but you're unwilling to listen.

Thank you for your Sodium bromide answer, that validates my concerns. Trust me, I am reading all of the replies and listening. And I appreciate those that are being very helpful but I'm also hearing skepticism, doubts and more questions about my pool structure type (which has nothing to do with eliminating pink algae). I have ordered a TF-100 and will follow the SLAM to a T.

Thank you everyone for all your help (!). I have all the information I need right now. We can close out this thread.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Well, it's important to know what the structure of your pool is because that can and will affect the need for certain levels of your chemistry like Calcium, for example.

 

[proavia]

Thank you for your Sodium bromide answer, that validates my concerns. Trust me, I am reading all of the replies and listening. And I appreciate those that are being very helpful but I'm also hearing skepticism, doubts and more questions about my pool structure type (which has nothing to do with eliminating pink algae). I have ordered a TF-100 and will follow the SLAM to a T.

Great!
Did you order the SpeedStir/SmartStir magnetic stirring device as well? It's a real game changer and makes testing much more consistent and accurate. (that's why I recommended the TF-Pro kit - where it's included - over the TF-100 in post #33).

When your kit arrives, post up a full set of test results here in this thread and we can assist from there.
In the mean time, add 3-5 parts of liquid chlorine daily to keep the issue from getting worse.

 

[Donldson]

Yes I did 'copy and paste' because that's what I follow.

When you fully perform the process you'll understand that you haven't and why it was so obvious to us that this is the case.

BTW, I don't appreciate being second guessed.

Many of us have helped many people for many years and have become good at recognizing when there are missing pieces or misrepresentations in a post. Hiding things doesn't help anybody.

I have all the information I need right now.

Indeed, you do and have had that information available for 15 years. Having access to the information is the easy part, implementing it is the part most people get caught up on...