- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,258
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Started this thread because @IUsedToSail asked about orientation of valves/check valves. Made me realize I didn't do a plumbing thread on my rebuild.
Some may know my story, new pool owner last year (came with the house), I was PoolStored...then I found TFP. Pulled out the UV system and the Puck Chlorinator. Added a stenner pump, smart plug and ran for the year. Was a great year.
At the end of the year, @Newdude convinced me I *NEEDED* an SWCG. So I got one. I also did an almost complete re-plumb.
Here is what I had, and what was wrong:
1) Old Ball Valves on incoming lines. Were a bit "sticky" to say the least.
2) Incoming line closest to the camera was a suction line for vacuum that had been vinyl linered over. Not in use.
3) Pump to Filter line was a threaded fitting...yes, it had a union, but it was janky.
4) Inbound connection to the multi-port had this tape over it, it was ok, but at times would drip a little.
5) Puck chlorinator holes in in-bound and out-bound pipes. Had to interconnect them when I took out chlorinator.
6) Ugly unions looking at you with no connection was where the UV was located, ugly.
7) No check valve on the heater.
8) More janky ball valves.
9) Connection from the filter to the heater lines was a flexible PVC, it was ok, but I think poor workmanship.

Last fall and today I finished the install. Here's what I did:
Pump through Filter

Filter to Pool:

Electrical
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com

Just waiting for a new plug for the sand filter and I'll fire up the pool under cover with chlorine from the stenner. When temps warm up (Pool is 48 Degrees), it will be time for salt and to fire up a new SWCG!

Some may know my story, new pool owner last year (came with the house), I was PoolStored...then I found TFP. Pulled out the UV system and the Puck Chlorinator. Added a stenner pump, smart plug and ran for the year. Was a great year.
At the end of the year, @Newdude convinced me I *NEEDED* an SWCG. So I got one. I also did an almost complete re-plumb.
Here is what I had, and what was wrong:
1) Old Ball Valves on incoming lines. Were a bit "sticky" to say the least.
2) Incoming line closest to the camera was a suction line for vacuum that had been vinyl linered over. Not in use.
3) Pump to Filter line was a threaded fitting...yes, it had a union, but it was janky.
4) Inbound connection to the multi-port had this tape over it, it was ok, but at times would drip a little.
5) Puck chlorinator holes in in-bound and out-bound pipes. Had to interconnect them when I took out chlorinator.
6) Ugly unions looking at you with no connection was where the UV was located, ugly.
7) No check valve on the heater.
8) More janky ball valves.
9) Connection from the filter to the heater lines was a flexible PVC, it was ok, but I think poor workmanship.

Last fall and today I finished the install. Here's what I did:
Pump through Filter
- The inbound lines actually had threaded fittings, thank the Lord, at least I could start there easily. If they hadn't have done that, there is not much inbound pipe to work with. Removed the old valves, in with the Lube Free Valves and new Unions on the inbound. Capped the abandoned vacuum line.
- Rebuilt the lines to the pump with the proper unions in and out of the pump.
- Just to be a bit "extra" for @Newdude, I added a union between the pump and the mulit-port. Would allow me to work on and replace the multiport in the future. Otherwise, the length between multi-port and pump output would not allow me to remove that section (it would hit the ground when you tried to back it out). With union, it shortens the arm, misses the ground, and I can get it out if necessary.
- Removed the old threaded insert into the multi-port and re-inserted using the recommended plasto-joint stick.

Filter to Pool:
- Removed all of it, UV, Unions, valves.
- Rebuilt with a union before the heater and bypass; allows me to fix issues downstream in the future.
- Added 3 way valve to create a heater bypass.
- Added a check valve to the heater.
- Added a Circupool RJ-60.
- Added the flow switch with ~14" of straight before it. When I did it last fall, for whatever reason, I put the cell on the up-flow and the switch on the downflow. Learned since that if the switch spring fails, it would fail "Closed." So today, I cut the switch and cell upside down "U" and switched them so the flow switch is in the up-bound flow (hence the extra couplers).
- Included 2 injection "T"s so that I can hook up stenner pumps, one for Chlorine and one for MA. Yes, I know they cannot run at the same time. Chlorine for if the cell fails and I need backup for a period of time.

Electrical
- Removed the GFCI on the left, It was unnecessary.
- Added a new box, and rerouted pump power and Circupool power to new box.
- To be a bit "extra" for @Newdude, and since I run my pump 24x7 at a low rate, and I have a programmable Superflo pump (and have no timer), I added a Current Sensing relay hooked to the pump circuit. Circupool will lose power if pump is off for whatever reason. I can also set a threshold where the power comes on at the right current draw to ensure pump is running at a high enough speed to generally match the timing of the flow sensor. Got the idea from @laprjns. Here are a couple threads explaning it.
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Just waiting for a new plug for the sand filter and I'll fire up the pool under cover with chlorine from the stenner. When temps warm up (Pool is 48 Degrees), it will be time for salt and to fire up a new SWCG!

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