Phin testing

[kimkats]

Here are a couple of links to help you out:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Trouble Free Pool
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Kim

 

[Dirk]

The 2006C is great. You don't need the pH tester. Hold off on that for now. Add "Taylor: K-2006 and K-1766 Test Kits, SpeedStir" to your signature, if that is the salt test you bought.

FC stands for "Free Chlorine," so the FC level is how much chlorine is in the water, and the FC test is used to determine that. If you're swimming in the water (or using the spa), you need to know your FC level and maintain it at a safe level. And we need to know how much CYA is in the water to help you determine what your FC level should be.

You missed a few quesions:

Who is maintaining chlorine level right now? You or the PB? Per your contract with the PB, is he to handle all the chemicals for the first month, or are you supposed to be doing that?

We need to know the type of tabs you're using. Tell us what the package says, or post a picture of the label.

Get to reading the links Kim and I gave you. Read all about FC and CYA and the FC/CYA relationship. We can help you a lot with all that stuff, but ya gotta do your homework, too! If you read Pool School and "don't get it," that's OK. Read it again. Most of us were in the same place, and have read it at least twice. If you have questions about FC, just ask.

Tell us when your kit arrives. TFP doesn't teach "shocking the pool," so you won't be doing that, we maintain FC by testing what is already in the pool and then adding what is needed using liquid chlorine. So be sure to have some liquid chlorine on hand. Don't store it near the Muriatic acid you've been using. As per when to add other chemicals, that depends on the answer to the question about who is responsible for doing that, you or the PB.

 

[HermanTX]

Can you recommend a pH meter on amazon? Any will do?

You do not "need" a pH meter as you will get good results with the test included in your K-2006 kit. Taylor provides a good color comparator in that kit with 6 different levels of pH. If you ever decide you really "want" pH meter then be prepared to spend $40 or more (up to $100) to get a decent one. Furthermore you have to keep them calibrated or they are of no value. Thus the color comparator test in your K-2006 kit is quite adequate.

How long has it been since you did your initial fill of your pool? You mentioned using the spa and that usually means using your heater which some PB do not want you to do for the first 30 days. Just thought I mention that.

 

[Dirk]

Herman brings up a most excellent point about using your heater. If you don't mind me saying, and why I keep asking about who is handling the startup process, I'm hearing some indication that your startup process is not quite being handled adequately. I hope I'm wrong about that. The first week, and then the first month, are incredibly important when it comes to maintaining your water. This is the period of time that your finish will be curing the most, and the water condition can really affect how well that curing process happens. And that can affect the longevity of your finish.

If your PB is contracted to do the startup, and your warranty depends on that, then so be it. Otherwise, you need to grab control of the startup process, test the water, dose it with what it needs, and protect your new investment. That's not a criticism, you're doing great, and better than most new pool owners. You found TFP. Check. You're reading Pool School. Check. You've got a great test kit on the way. Check. All good. You may be just a tad behind the curve on this, but you're now on the right track. And we'll help you, as soon as you get your kit and you let us know that the PB has given you the green light to take over the startup process.

 

[setsailsoon]

A,

I'm one of those people that has a very difficult time with the shades of red/purple colors needed for the liquid drop pH test. I've used meters for years for that reason. Here's what I found after about 4 years of experimenting:

• I've tried many of them and found the super cheap ones work for a little while usually a couple months before they don't calibrate well and pH reading wont stabilize.
• Haven't tried the TFT Testkits meter and may check that one out when I get my next refill set.
• I found the meters that cost $35 plus are much better.
• Higher cost units seem to work reliably 1-2 years and they're more resistant to abuse.
• Letting the tip dry out is never good and it's a killer for the cheaper models - once and done for many of them.
• You have to calibrate each time until you get used to the meter. After that check with calibration fluid and only calibrate when needed. The better models will go a couple weeks before needing calibration. Be sure to shake and dip then dry the probe several times before you test or calibrate.
• My favorite so far is the Hanna pheb with single digit accuracy.
• Next one I'll test is the Hanna Ph checker plus. (HI 98100) It's got a much smaller form factor and it's got a replaceable tip. This is really good since the tip electrolyte is depleted each time it's used. Lab instruments give you the ability to refill it. Portable meters don't.
• With careful use and checking pH about 4 times per week I think 11/2 years is a reasonable expectation for the better quality digital test probes.
• There are several other brands that seem to make good quality units including Apera, Hach, and others.
• One nice thing you get from the additional hassle of a digital probe instead of the liquid drop test is that it is not affected by high FC as the drop test for FC over 10. Even with this advantage I wish I could read the liquid drop test as well as most people.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[Alaouiomar]

The 2006C is great. You don't need the pH tester. Hold off on that for now. Add "Taylor: K-2006 and K-1766 Test Kits, SpeedStir" to your signature, if that is the salt test you bought.

FC stands for "Free Chlorine," so the FC level is how much chlorine is in the water, and the FC test is used to determine that. If you're swimming in the water (or using the spa), you need to know your FC level and maintain it at a safe level. And we need to know how much CYA is in the water to help you determine what your FC level should be.

You missed a few quesions:

Who is maintaining chlorine level right now? You or the PB? Per your contract with the PB, is he to handle all the chemicals for the first month, or are you supposed to be doing that?

We need to know the type of tabs you're using. Tell us what the package says, or post a picture of the label.

Get to reading the links Kim and I gave you. Read all about FC and CYA and the FC/CYA relationship. We can help you a lot with all that stuff, but ya gotta do your homework, too! If you read Pool School and "don't get it," that's OK. Read it again. Most of us were in the same place, and have read it at least twice. If you have questions about FC, just ask.

Tell us when your kit arrives. TFP doesn't teach "shocking the pool," so you won't be doing that, we maintain FC by testing what is already in the pool and then adding what is needed using liquid chlorine. So be sure to have some liquid chlorine on hand. Don't store it near the Muriatic acid you've been using. As per when to add other chemicals, that depends on the answer to the question about who is responsible for doing that, you or the PB.

Thanks Dirk. The pool builder is handling all the chemicals for the first month. He is maintaining the chlorine and the chemicals for the first month, but I haven’t seen him add anything besides chlorine tabs and Muriatic acid. He will add salt in a couple of weeks. Attached are the results of the test strip I did a few minutes ago. Also, a picture of the acid and chlorine tabs. Is the cleaner I have a good one?

 

[Alaouiomar]

A,

I'm one of those people that has a very difficult time with the shades of red/purple colors needed for the liquid drop pH test. I've used meters for years for that reason. Here's what I found after about 4 years of experimenting:

• I've tried many of them and found the super cheap ones work for a little while usually a couple months before they don't calibrate well and pH reading wont stabilize.
• Haven't tried the TFT Testkits meter and may check that one out when I get my next refill set.
• I found the meters that cost $35 plus are much better.
• Higher cost units seem to work reliably 1-2 years and they're more resistant to abuse.
• Letting the tip dry out is never good and it's a killer for the cheaper models - once and done for many of them.
• You have to calibrate each time until you get used to the meter. After that check with calibration fluid and only calibrate when needed. The better models will go a couple weeks before needing calibration. Be sure to shake and dip then dry the probe several times before you test or calibrate.
• My favorite so far is the Hanna pheb with single digit accuracy.
• Next one I'll test is the Hanna Ph checker plus. (HI 98100) It's got a much smaller form factor and it's got a replaceable tip. This is really good since the tip electrolyte is depleted each time it's used. Lab instruments give you the ability to refill it. Portable meters don't.
• With careful use and checking pH about 4 times per week I think 11/2 years is a reasonable expectation for the better quality digital test probes.
• There are several other brands that seem to make good quality units including Apera, Hach, and others.
• One nice thing you get from the additional hassle of a digital probe instead of the liquid drop test is that it is not affected by high FC as the drop test for FC over 10. Even with this advantage I wish I could read the liquid drop test as well as most people.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

Thank you Chris. I went ahead and ordered one just to compare it to test results when the test kit comes. Image attached.

 

[Alaouiomar]

Thank you Chris. I went ahead and ordered one just to compare it to test results when the test kit comes. Image attached.

 

[Alaouiomar]

Thanks Dirk. The pool builder is handling all the chemicals for the first month. He is maintaining the chlorine and the chemicals for the first month, but I haven’t seen him add anything besides chlorine tabs and Muriatic acid. He will add salt in a couple of weeks. Attached are the results of the test strip I did a few minutes ago. Also, a picture of the acid and chlorine tabs. Is the cleaner I have a good one?

You do not "need" a pH meter as you will get good results with the test included in your K-2006 kit. Taylor provides a good color comparator in that kit with 6 different levels of pH. If you ever decide you really "want" pH meter then be prepared to spend $40 or more (up to $100) to get a decent one. Furthermore you have to keep them calibrated or they are of no value. Thus the color comparator test in your K-2006 kit is quite adequate.

How long has it been since you did your initial fill of your pool? You mentioned using the spa and that usually means using your heater which some PB do not want you to do for the first 30 days. Just thought I mention that.

Thank you. I filled my pool about two weeks ago, and used the spa for the first time last week. Heated it to about 100 degrees and really enjoyed it. I cleared it with the pool builder as I didn’t want to get into any water that would harm me, and he said it was fine. Thanks again!

 

[Dirk]

We don't offer advice based on test strip results. They are well known to be wildly inaccurate. I don't even know how to read them, as I've never used them. If the PB is taking care of the chemicals, then you're probably covered for now. When you get your kit you'll do a full suite of tests, post them here, then we can weigh in on how well the PB is doing.

He's using Trichlor tabs, which means you're adding CYA to the water while adding chlorine. And for now that's good. Eventually you'll have to stop using them, once you reach your CYA target, but we can get into that after you've read (re-read?) Pool School. Your new test kit will tell us how much CYA has been added so far.

I'm not clear on what cleaner you're asking about...

Great job! (Nice siggie update!!)

 

[jseyfert3]

I just got an Apera PH60. It’s the next model up from the PH20 you got. Mine was $80 off Amazon, and allows replacement probes which currently sell for $40. The biggest reason I got the higher end model was I’m going to also use it for making beer and cider, and wanted the 0.01 resolution.

Anyway I just finished calibrating it and I’m gonna write up a couple thoughts later on which I could link here if your interested.

EDIT: Forgot to mention I went with Apera after seeing many people on the homebrewtalk forum state they liked it better (less drift, longer life) over equivalently priced Hanna meters. I suspect the PH20 meter will be a good meter for testing pool water

 

[Dirk]

Jseyfert and I don't see eye to eye on this subject. I advised him once before he should combine his hobbies by filling his spa with beer, and then go from there. So far, he's been unreasonably stubborn about adopting that idea!

 

[Alaouiomar]

We don't offer advice based on test strip results. They are well known to be wildly inaccurate. I don't even know how to read them, as I've never used them. If the PB is taking care of the chemicals, then you're probably covered for now. When you get your kit you'll do a full suite of tests, post them here, then we can weigh in on how well the PB is doing.

He's using Trichlor tabs, which means you're adding CYA to the water while adding chlorine. And for now that's good. Eventually you'll have to stop using them, once you reach your CYA target, but we can get into that after you've read (re-read?) Pool School. Your new test kit will tell us how much CYA has been added so far.

I'm not clear on what cleaner you're asking about...

Great job! (Nice siggie update!!)

Thanks Dirk. I was asking about the pool
Cleaner (vacuum) in the picture.

 

[Alaouiomar]

Thanks Dirk. I was asking about the pool
Cleaner (vacuum) in the picture. I have it programmed to run an hour in the morning and an hour at night.

 

[Dirk]

Thanks Dirk. I was asking about the pool
Cleaner (vacuum) in the picture.

Ah, sorry, missed that. That looks to be a pressure-side cleaner. Do you also have a booster pump for your vac? Please add the make and model of the vac to your signature. Since you asked...

I don't know anything about that particular model, whatever it is. But I used to have a pressure-side cleaner and I'm glad to be rid of it. Pressure-side cleaners (PSCs) are the only type that require an extra pump. So to clean your pool, you not only need to run your main pump, but your booster pump, too. That's not particularly energy efficient. PSCs, like robot cleaners, have a crud-catcher that has to be cleaned out regularly. How often depends on how dirty your pool gets. I didn't like having to constantly do that, and monitor the bag to see how full it was getting. And don't get me started on that stupid tail. Depending on how high yours gets up the walls, that tail can come flipping out of the water and hose down anything in its wake, including you or others that happen to be within range. That spray trashed my windows (before I owned the house and pool) and it took a full day of cleaning to get the resulting sludge removed. It required power tools, the caked on calcium deposits were so bad.

Again, I can't say if you have a good PSC or not, but any PSC is not ideal, IMO. I have a suction-side cleaner, which I really like, for a lot of reasons. No bag to clean out. No power cord running across the pool. And it keeps my pool clean. A pool guy converted my pressure-side vac pipe to a suction line, so I was able to just switch over. Others here make fun of my suction-side cleaner, and swear by their robots. Both PSCs and my type of cleaner are old-school. PSCs are particularly so. Robots are all the rage, and they supposedly do an excellent job of cleaning. And even though they are significantly more expensive than a suction-side cleaner, I wouldn't trade mine for a robot, which have a lot I don't like.

Is your PB an "old-timer?" I'm surprised he recommended such an archaic cleaning technology.

Sorry for the harsh review. I tells it like it is. It's all personal preference. I'm sure your vac will do a fine job of cleaning. My old one did. I just didn't like the other aspects of a PSC.

 

[HermanTX]

It looks like a Polaris 280 or 380 pressure side cleaner. It is their black version as it has black tires and black bag. Not sure there is any thing special other than color from the standard. You should have a booster pump. It be a smaller pump than your regular pool pump and most likely has 3/4” pipe going in the suction side and exiting the pressure side. It is old technology but is widely used by many. You will need to do maintenance on it annually to change out the wheels, replace the wear rings and scrubber on the tail. You can search the forum for Polaris cleaners.

 

[HermanTX]

Is your PB an "old-timer?" I'm surprised he recommended such an archaic cleaning technology

Based on what I see on the forum and from my personal experience it is a very common cleaner to include in pool bids. The thing about the Polaris is that it is relatively inexpensive for the PB to include it. It is simple to operate and it can stay in the pool full time. Also pool stores carry lots of spare parts for it. Although I agree that it has been around for a long time

 

[Dirk]

Based on what I see on the forum and from my personal experience it is a very common cleaner to include in pool bids. The thing about the Polaris is that it is relatively inexpensive for the PB to include it. It is simple to operate and it can stay in the pool full time. Also pool stores carry lots of spare parts for it. Although I agree that it has been around for a long time

I just meant there seems to be a group of PBs that have been around a long time and build pools the same way they always did. We hear stories here all the time: pressure-side cleaners, single- or dual-speed pumps, resisting SWGs, no clue about FC/CYA, still installing tab feeders, etc. A lot of those older technologies, like pressure-side cleaners, still work just fine, just like they always did. It's just that there are better ways to do things now...

 

[ciaka]

I also have new pool and these folks here are priceless in advice.
I have same test kit, Taylor k-2006c. Here un TX we get everything bigger.
Watch TFP testing videos, write down steps for each test (most tests have two versions, one using 25mL same, and another using 10mL sample). Smaller sample gives you a curacy to 0.5ppm, while larger sample gives you accuracy to 0.2ppm. Folks on here said I would never need 0.2ppm accuracy so I trust their word. Saves on chemicals too.
Once you have test steps down, do tests for
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Make sure you record water temp when you test.
Also get the pool math app, premium. Track your tests and treatments. App costs 7 bucks a year but will be invaluable for you. Trust me. I reached time where I don't add much chemicals as they stay level with low swings. All from this forum advice. Good luck. You'll be fine.

 

[Yev]

One note I want to add that might not have been made clear before. Reading the colors accurately on a test strip is a challenge. That is one of themany reasons that you should not rely on them. With the test kit that you bought (and will get soon) the color changes are much easier to read,and much easier to get a value off of, so dont fear reading colors based upon stupid strips, this is much more clear.

As for the stir kit, might sound silly and unnecessary, but it is not. This makes the color change much more rapid and easier to see, worth the small cost to buy one. Just remember, fill your vials with water to the proper amount, and then add the stir bar. Never put the stir bar in first, then add water, or you end up with the on correct amount of test water.

And I will leave you with a couple of pro tips. Get yourself a pool water cup for testing. I fill the bottle with pool water first, rinse it around to get out any debris that might be present, then dump the water out (back in pool is fine). Then I turn the cup upside down, and put it underwater about elbow length down (and away from any return jet into the pool) and turn it right side up to allow it to fill. I then go to my my pool, sit down, and relax. From there, I use a plastic syringe to add water to the vials such as this one.

DEPEPE 8pcs 60ml Plastic Syringe with Caps, Large Catheter Tip Syringes for Lipgloss Making Feeding Food Paint Scientific Lab Measurement and Dispensing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

DEPEPE 8pcs 60ml Plastic Syringe with Caps, Large Catheter Tip Syringes for Lipgloss Making Feeding Food Paint Scientific Lab Measurement and Dispensing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

This helps to quickly get the water level right in the vials. Do the test, and once done, rinse out everything and allow them to air dry.