We are new pool owners this year and quickly discovered we had a CYA problem. We have been slowly working that off by vaccuming to waste and adding fresh water (and using only unstabilized chlorine). I just ordered a new test kit that will let us accurately test the CYA and Free Chlorine levels (We just had the PH and Chlorine/Bromine test). The pool water is nice and clear with no algae (at the moment) but we've been adding a lot of chlorine daily while we await our test kit. Our test results (from pool store, and "validated" with strips) this morning were as follows: CYA 92, FC 7.95, PH 8, TA 62, CH 390, Temp 85. My question is whether we should keep adding chlorine while we wait for the test kit to arrive, or if we risk damaging our concrete pool (no liner) or making the water unsafe to swim in (we have a party scheduled for Friday and I'm really hoping we can use the pool). We haven't had to mess with the PH at all yet, so we have no experience with trying to raise or lower the alkalinity or acidity. Thanks in advance for the help!
PH of 8 - problem?
- Thread starter Ljo128
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,914
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
Some things to do while you wait for the test kit:
- Update your signature. See mine as an example.
- Add 4 ppm worth of liquid chlorine per day; the PoolMath APP can help you with the dosage amount.
- Bookmark and read our Pool Care Basics page.
Don't take any other actions based on those other test methods. Only rely on results from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. Once you get your kit, post a full set of results and we'll be able to help more.
Some things to do while you wait for the test kit:- Update your signature. See mine as an example.
- Add 4 ppm worth of liquid chlorine per day; the PoolMath APP can help you with the dosage amount.
- Bookmark and read our Pool Care Basics page.
Don't take any other actions based on those other test methods. Only rely on results from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. Once you get your kit, post a full set of results and we'll be able to help more.
Thanks for the welcome! I updated my signature. We'll continue to add the chlorine as you recommend until we have our test kit (hopefully soon!). We have a bucket of granulated chlorine (no stabalizer), but is liquid bleach better? As an aside - is there anything useful we can do with the bucket of chlorine tabs that came with the house?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,914
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I would stick with liquid chlorine for now as to not increase the CYA any further. Your bucket of tabs can be stored anywhere dry and be used later when you know the CYA isn't too high.
jark87
Silver Supporter
- Jun 5, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 25500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Here’s some info on pH. I’ve also linked the full write up. Lowering pH from 8.0 to the recommended range should be easy for you, assuming your test results are accurate. 28 oz of muratic acid will get you in the 7.6 range, per Pool Math, also linked below. (Note - the app is easier to use and lets you store your pool info. Log maintenance is available via paid subscription.) Just slowly pour the MA in around the edges of your pool, primarily into the streams of the pool return jets.
As well, some of your pool equipment contains metallic components and the rates of corrosion of those metallic components are directly related to pH. pH is the single most important factor when it comes to metal corrosion and stability in pool water.
Similarly, plaster pools need to have their pH balanced properly (along with other water parameters like total alkalinity and calcium hardness) in order to maintain the integrity and long life of their pool surface.
While low pH (less than 7.0) can be detrimental to pool equipment and surfaces, high pH can be equally as damaging by promoting the formation of calcium and metal scale. Calcium scale can occur in any pool type and can lead to rough pool surfaces and damage to pool equipment like heaters and salt-water chlorine generators.
www.troublefreepool.com
Why is Maintaining Pool pH Range Important?
Measuring and maintaining an appropriate pH level is important for several reasons - bather comfort, pool surface quality and equipment longevity. The acidity or basicity of the pool water directly impacts the comfort level of the swimmer. If the pool water's pH is extremely outside the normal ranges (7.2-7.8), bathers can experience discomfort ranging from eye irritation to itchy skin.As well, some of your pool equipment contains metallic components and the rates of corrosion of those metallic components are directly related to pH. pH is the single most important factor when it comes to metal corrosion and stability in pool water.
Similarly, plaster pools need to have their pH balanced properly (along with other water parameters like total alkalinity and calcium hardness) in order to maintain the integrity and long life of their pool surface.
While low pH (less than 7.0) can be detrimental to pool equipment and surfaces, high pH can be equally as damaging by promoting the formation of calcium and metal scale. Calcium scale can occur in any pool type and can lead to rough pool surfaces and damage to pool equipment like heaters and salt-water chlorine generators.
PH - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
PoolMath
Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.
www.troublefreepool.com
Thank you! I really appreciate your response and the links to the relevant articles. I am using the app and will keep an eye on the pH. I'll hold off on adding MA until I have my test kit, as I just retested the pH and it came in at 7.8. No sense adding chemicals until I know the actual levels.
