Ph is high!!!

[tracyd]

Im having the worst time getting my ph down this year. We had equipment issues opening the pool and the pool went from green to brown over the month until the issues were resolved. Frogs are now breeding in there. The pollen is also out of control. The pump and filter are working great now but Im trying to get my ph down before slamming. I added 6 lbs of Ph decreaser that did nothing and just yesterday approx 50 ounces of 31% muriatic acid per pool math and my ph is still off the charts. I must admit using the chemical scared me a little. The directions said not to dilute it , rather place the bottle in the water and slowly tip the neck into the water I presume to prevent splash? Should I just keep adding the acid? Do I worry about TA at this point?

PH- above the charts
TA 50- tested before the PH down and muriatic acid
CYA 40-50

 

[mknauss]

What test kit are you using?
What is your FC?

 

[tracyd]

I have the taylor 2006. I presume its 0 since I havent added any. With a ph that high should I add chlorine? I understand that chlorine is not very effective with high ph?

 

[mknauss]

FC level can effect pH so that is not an issue.

It is really hard to have a very high pH with a low TA. Can you post a picture of the pH test?

 

[tracyd]

Sure, I'll post it. I'll post a pic of the pool water as well.

 

[tracyd]

TA -40
All new testers this year

 

[mknauss]

Hmm - you said 0 FC, and you have not added any. Do this for me:
Raise your FC in the water using enough liquid chlorine to get to 10 ppm using PoolMath. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test FC and CC. Report the results here.

 

[tracyd]

I presume since the pool is green and I havent added any chlorine yet this year. Want me to test it just for kicks and giggles? OK I have chemicals on hand. Ill do that now.

 

[mknauss]

Actually ammonia. Did the pool have CYA in it when you first tested it?

 

[tracyd]

No it was unreadable. Every year we have 0 CYA. I presume its because we live in a wooded area and despite a good pool cover, leaves and debris make it into the pool every year. Does that sound plausible?

 

[mknauss]

Water exchange is needed to remove the CYA.
If you would, try the FC add and test. It will point us in the right direction.

 

[tracyd]

OK Ill do that right now. Thank you

 

[tracyd]

FC 2.4
CC 3
I also have an ammonia test kit the result .5- 1 (tested after the chlorine was added if that makes a difference). Does ammonia cause PH to rise?

 

[mknauss]

It does. But when you eliminate it, the pH falls, fast.
To check and defeat ammonia, if necessary, is to raise your FC in the water using enough liquid chlorine to get to 10 ppm using PoolMath. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test FC. If FC at 5 or below, add LC to get to 10 using LC, circulate for 15 minutes, repeat until your FC is above 5 ppm after the 15 minute circulation.

 

[mknauss]

If your ammonia test is accurate, you should only have to do a couple more rounds of 10 ppm and the ammonia should be gone. Then let circulate for a good hour and test pH.

 

[tracyd]

Why 10? That seems low? Can I SLAM the pool?

 

[tracyd]

Would a Slam break down the ammonia? Should I do the 10ppm to see if the ammonia is indeed the issue with the PH?

 

[Mr Bruce]

10 is the max recommended for 0 CYA pools. You cannot add CYA until the ammonia is gone. You cannot SLAM without CYA. So keep doing the 15 minute test until you can hold above 5. Then you can SLAM.

 

[tracyd]

My Cya is 40-50

 

[mknauss]

It could, but it is easier to just follow the protocol as at the start, the FC is consumed rapidly.

Do use a 10 ml water sample for FC testing. One scoop of powder and each drop of reagent to clear is 0.5ppm FC.