PH always floats high

[russell2415]

This summer I switched to using Calcium Hypochlorite as my shock. I was previously using the 6-in-1 blue crystals from Home Depot but that caused by CYA to reach levels that forced me to drain 2/3 of my pool and start over.

This summer it seems like every time I check the chemicals, the pH is ~8.0 requiring 2-4 drops on the Taylor acid demand test to get to ~7.4 which means I'm adding muriatic or sodium bisulfate multiple times per week. This also means I'm then alternating adding baking soda to keep my TA up as the acid additions are reducing it.

Does this sound like a normal balancing act? It's odd to me because last summer with the different shock I felt like I was always pushing the pH up by adding baking soda.

 

[mknauss]

The cal hypo does raise your pH. Not a lot, but if that is all you use, and I would suggest you check your CH as I thought Austin water was somewhat high in calcium, it could push pH up. The dichlor you used last summer was acidic.
Why not use sodium hypochlorite, bleach?

Do you have any water features running daily that will aerate the pool water?

 

[russell2415]

Thank you for the response. To answer your questions
- My CH is 275ppm.
- regarding aeration, the tub (not hot because the heater valve is toast!) spills over to the main pool when the pump is running, so yes?
- bleach, well last year I didn't know any better and when I opened up my pool this year, bleach was in short supply in the area due to covid19

I just checked online and it's much more readily available than 1-2 months ago.

So I may try that. Sadly I have many bags of the hypo shock. :-/

 

[mknauss]

Do you have automation for the spa valves?

 

[Newdude]

Those of us with spillovers, or SWGs tend to have higher PH from all the aeration. When you lower it, shoot for 7.8 and it takes it longer to go back up. In the low 7s it bounces right back, blowing past 7.8 and closer to 8.2.

 

[russell2415]

Do you have automation for the spa valves?

No, the valve that controls the return flow between the pool and the spa is manual. It is set so that a little more goes to the pool and enough that the spillway actually "spills" instead of dribbles

 

[russell2415]

Those of us with spillovers, or SWGs tend to have higher PH from all the aeration. When you lower it, shoot for 7.8 and it takes it longer to go back up. In the low 7s it bounces right back, blowing past 7.8 and closer to 8.2.

Oh, that's interesting. I didn't know that. I will try that as well.

 

[IceShadow]

What’s your TA?

 

[chessie6]

I used to have the same problem, and to fix it I had to go outside the box which is to keep my TA lower than the recommended. So, I pretty much keep it around 40 or 50 and everything has stayed stable since. All my best to you!

 

[russell2415]

TA is at 65 right now. I picked up liquid chlorine at 12.5% yesterday so I'm going to start balancing w/o the cal hypo and hopefully that will make it easier. I downloaded the TFP app as well. Was a bit surprised when it said I should have my FAC at 9ppm since my CYA is at 80. I've normally kept it at 4-6ppm w/o issues. And by no issues, I just mean no algae growth.

 

[Richard320]

This summer I switched to using Calcium Hypochlorite as my shock. I was previously using the 6-in-1 blue crystals from Home Depot but that caused by CYA to reach levels that forced me to drain 2/3 of my pool and start over.

This summer it seems like every time I check the chemicals, the pH is ~8.0 requiring 2-4 drops on the Taylor acid demand test to get to ~7.4 which means I'm adding muriatic or sodium bisulfate multiple times per week. This also means I'm then alternating adding baking soda to keep my TA up as the acid additions are reducing it.

Does this sound like a normal balancing act? It's odd to me because last summer with the different shock I felt like I was always pushing the pH up by adding baking soda.

It's Deja vu!

The problem is micromanagement. That's the same thing the pool stores do. It gets you to constantly add chemicals. They need to keep you on the merry go round with chemical levels going up and down and you going round and round but never actually getting anywhere but back where you started, because that sells chemicals.

A tip: if your numbers are in acceptable range (TA used to say 50-90+) don't mess with them just to be "ideal." Ideal is a target for when you do need to make adjustments. So if pH acceptable is 7.2-8.0 and ideal is 7.6-7.8 and you're at 7.4, do nothing. If you're at 8.2, then you may as well target the ideal instead of just plain acceptable if you're going to the trouble of measuring chemicals.

Conflicting Pool math on pH

Trying to figure out the best course. Pool math app seems to give conflicting advice. It suggests using borax to raise pH and an acid to lower pH to get TA adjusted. Any suggestions?

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