Trying to figure out the best course. Pool math app seems to give conflicting advice. It suggests using borax to raise pH and an acid to lower pH to get TA adjusted. Any suggestions?
Conflicting Pool math on pH
- Thread starter Wenglehaupt
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,522
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
No need to do anything chemically for either the TA or pH. The TA is the least critical parameter. It will come down as you keep your pH in the 7's. The pH will rise with aeration.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
No need to do anything chemically for either the TA or pH. The TA is the least critical parameter. It will come down as you keep your pH in the 7's. The pH will rise with aeration.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
I don’t normally have to mess with either number, although I have tweaked my ph when it has gone too low (added soda ash) and when it has gone too high (added muriatic acid). If TA stays around 70-80 in my pool, I can go for weeks without a discernible difference in ph.
Thanks to you both. Always like the advice of “do nothing.” Will continue to keep an eye on the #s for changes.
Welcome! 
The problem is micromanagement. That's the same thing the pool stores do. It gets you to constantly add chemicals. They need to keep you on the merry go round with chemical levels going up and down and you going round and round but never actually getting anywhere but back where you started, because that sells chemicals.
A tip: if your numbers are in acceptable range (TA used to say 50-90+) don't mess with them just to be "ideal." Ideal is a target for when you do need to make adjustments. So if pH acceptable is 7.2-8.0 and ideal is 7.6-7.8 and you're at 7.4, do nothing. If you're at 8.2, then you may as well target the ideal instead of just plain acceptable if you're going to the trouble of measuring chemicals.
The problem is micromanagement. That's the same thing the pool stores do. It gets you to constantly add chemicals. They need to keep you on the merry go round with chemical levels going up and down and you going round and round but never actually getting anywhere but back where you started, because that sells chemicals.
A tip: if your numbers are in acceptable range (TA used to say 50-90+) don't mess with them just to be "ideal." Ideal is a target for when you do need to make adjustments. So if pH acceptable is 7.2-8.0 and ideal is 7.6-7.8 and you're at 7.4, do nothing. If you're at 8.2, then you may as well target the ideal instead of just plain acceptable if you're going to the trouble of measuring chemicals.
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