Has anyone in the forum recently calibrated the pen type pH meter that comes as an option with the TF 100 test kit?
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PH-009(I)A pen type pH meter
- Thread starter CarefreeTee
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,447
- Pool Size
- 35000
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- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Hi there. I have two beaker solutions with 250 ml deionized water and the entire 4.01 and 6.86 pH packets dissolved (the ones that come with the meter). The instructions say to immerse in the 6.86 and adjust the pH reading on the meter to what the chart says for your room temperature. My room temperature after sitting inside for two hours is 19°C so I adjusted to 6.88. Then the instructions say to put it into the 4.01 solution for at least a minute until it reaches that pH. And it just sits there at 3.5. It’s supposed to read 4.0 @ 19°C.
I am rinsing the electrode with deionized water before putting it in the 4.01 solution. The instructions do not say to adjust it again in the 4.01 though I did try that once and that made a real mess of things. So what do I do? I’m off a whole half of a pH point for the 4.0 reading.
When I put the meter back into the 6.86 it reads 6.88 @ 19°C
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- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,447
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Calibration at pH 4.0 does not matter for pool water that only ranges from 7.0 to the low 8's.
Calibrating with pH 7.0 or 6.86 is the best you can do.
There are better pH meters like the Apera that do automatic 2 point and 3 point calibration.
Calibrating with pH 7.0 or 6.86 is the best you can do.
There are better pH meters like the Apera that do automatic 2 point and 3 point calibration.
I had actually considered that possibility and it makes sense. I’m familiar with 2 and 3 point calibrations. Well, I’ll take that as a win then and go ahead and dispose of the solutions. Thank you.
- Sep 23, 2015
- 1,649
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- Astral Viron V25
It’s a bit complicated but pH meters should use a two point calibration. And they need regular calibration. I’ve had a few and don’t trust them without calibration.
I would persist with the phenol red and comparator, it really is quicker, easier and more reliable. View the comparator in front of a white background. Take a photo on a smart device and crop out everything other then the sample and color panels, it really helps choosing the best match and getting used to the comparator.
I would persist with the phenol red and comparator, it really is quicker, easier and more reliable. View the comparator in front of a white background. Take a photo on a smart device and crop out everything other then the sample and color panels, it really helps choosing the best match and getting used to the comparator.
Hi. I have had very bad luck with this pen. Batteries die quickly and I’m just wondering if there’s something a little better maybe uses AAA batteries or something? but I don’t like my drop test either.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,447
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Apera pH60 and you need to get the calibrating solutions and regularly calibrate using pH 4, 7, & 10 solutions.
- Sep 23, 2015
- 1,649
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V25
Calibrating the PH60 at 7 and 10, either side of where we read, would be ok. But you really need the storage solution to store it wet for best results. @mgtfp would know more than me.
- Mar 5, 2020
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- 66000
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- Astral Viron V35
Yep, the PH60 is great. Storage solution is essential from my experience, since I have started using that the calibration is very stable.
Calibration ideally at 7, 4 and 10, but 10 is more important than 4 with a TFP pool. If your pH is never below 7, then calibration at 4 doesn't add much. You could just keep the pH 4 calibration solution that comes with it sealed until the day you need it. Should probably last that way until the probe needs to be replaced.
pH meters are great when properly looked after, including regular calibration and proper storage. A lot more expensive than the drop test, and more care required, but have some advantages when maintaining pH close to 8 or FC above 10.
Calibration ideally at 7, 4 and 10, but 10 is more important than 4 with a TFP pool. If your pH is never below 7, then calibration at 4 doesn't add much. You could just keep the pH 4 calibration solution that comes with it sealed until the day you need it. Should probably last that way until the probe needs to be replaced.
pH meters are great when properly looked after, including regular calibration and proper storage. A lot more expensive than the drop test, and more care required, but have some advantages when maintaining pH close to 8 or FC above 10.
I purchased the pH meter along with the TFP test kit and unfortunately I don’t like it. The batteries die really fast and that’s a negative for me. I need one that maybe has an auto shut off or something like that. What kind of batteries do these PH60 meters take? I already have a huge amount of the calibration solutions that I have purchased for all three points. I just want more detail between 7.5 and greater than 8.2. I want to know how bad it is or how close I am to the mid range. I just can’t tell with the colors on the drop test. I did go down to four drops and it helped but I just seems like I’m always guessing between 7.8 and, however amount it’s over 8.2.
I’m having a lot of trouble getting it down to 7.5. I have been using an old bottle of MA. It’s done now and I’ll be buying a new one so who knows maybe it’s not as potent as it could be. That’s a big guess though.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,447
- Pool Size
- 35000
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- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Why?
It does not make a lot of difference if your pH is 7.5 or 7.8. pH dirfts around hour to hour and day to day.
Any pH in the 7's is ok.
Why must the pH be 7.5 for you?
What is your TA? Your PoolMath log does not show you testing TA before adding MA.
I’m not testing TA before adding MA. I hadn’t picked up that testing tidbit along the way :/ 7.5 is not important to me however getting further away from 8.2 is and most of the time I can’t seem to be certain it’s less than 8.2. Occasionally, I can see that it’s 7.8 or a little bit higher, but I’m so paranoid that it’s too far over 8.2. I am having trouble at that Range visually.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,447
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Nothing bad happens if your pH hits 8.2 or above.
Get your TA down to around 50-60 and your pH will not rise much above 8.2.
Lower TA keeps your pH from rising. There is an equilibrium that the pH and TA seeks.
PH TA Relationship - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
- Mar 5, 2020
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- 66000
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- Astral Viron V35
4 AAAs.
The PH60 is a much better meter. Even the PH20 is much better. The advantage of the PH60 over the PH20 is that you can replace the probe. So, in a couple of years you don't have to throw out the complete meter, but just replace the probe.
Good morning. I read the article on TA/pH relationship. I did test my TA this morning and it is 70. Also the pH is down around 7.9 or eight without doing anything. So I think I need to just relax a little bit on the pH, not worry so much about it other than in range. Don’t need to spend an extra hundred dollars on pH meter if I can avoid it. I did test my CYA again this morning and I think it is around 40. Which leads me into another question which probably requires a new thread. It’s about CYA, and floating tablets. I may have to start using a combination of liquid chlorine and tablets due to travel schedule. ;/
Hi there. I am going to be leaving my pool for longer periods of time starting in June. Have a five day trip and then I’ve got other projects that will require being away for several days at a time.. In September, I’m going to be gone for a month. I will have someone that can check basics for me, but I’m not expecting them to do extensive testing. So I think I need to begin the process of learning how to use the tricolor pucks along with liquid chlorine. Is there a recommended way to start doing that? Starting CYA is 40-45.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,447
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Ask your CYA questions here.
Edit the subject line in your first message if you want a different headline.
Edit the subject line in your first message if you want a different headline.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,722
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You can use pucks in a floater for the few days.
For a month, that will not work. Time to consider a SWCG.
For a month, that will not work. Time to consider a SWCG.
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