Opened the pool earlier this month and the water looks good and is testing good for CYA and FC. But I still have a couple of spots of algae that just aren't going away. What do I need to do and for how long to get rid the spots?
Persistent algae issue
- Thread starter wags22
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,766
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
Ok, so it's gone from bad to worse due to my accidentally overfilling the pool by leaving the water running for 6-8 hours. This drained off the CYA and killed the salt cell as the salt level fell to around a 1/4 of the desired level. I just added the 2nd bag of salt to bring it back in range.
Here's where I'm at:
CYA - less than 30 - tube was full and the dot was just starting to blur
Chlorine - nonexistant
pH - 7.2-7.5
I don't have the FAS-DPD test, but am getting ready to order one. Only problem is that it won't be here for at least a week and wife wants pool ready by Wednesday.
Here's what I have to work with:
Leslie Pool Power Powder Plus (hypochlorite)
10 gallons of liquid chlorine (10% solution)
4 gallons liquid CYA
Additional dry CYA
Can anyone give me a recommendation on how much to add and how often to complete a SLAM without being able to test for the total level? Is this even possible?
Here's where I'm at:
CYA - less than 30 - tube was full and the dot was just starting to blur
Chlorine - nonexistant
pH - 7.2-7.5
I don't have the FAS-DPD test, but am getting ready to order one. Only problem is that it won't be here for at least a week and wife wants pool ready by Wednesday.
Here's what I have to work with:
Leslie Pool Power Powder Plus (hypochlorite)
10 gallons of liquid chlorine (10% solution)
4 gallons liquid CYA
Additional dry CYA
Can anyone give me a recommendation on how much to add and how often to complete a SLAM without being able to test for the total level? Is this even possible?
Additional question: I currently have the Taylor test kit which tests for pH and chlorine levels. I had also purchased the hTh kit from Walmart that includes CYA, Alkalinity, and hardness tests. Do I need the full TF-100 or will just the FAS-DPD kit, FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test, suffice for putting me where I need to be?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,766
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You need the FAS-DPD and the CYA test. To buy those two tests alone are nearly the cost of a full TF100.
Read SLAM Process. Your pH should be close to 7.2 and CYA at 30 ppm. Then raise your FC to SLAM level and maintain several times per day until you pass the three criteria.
With your fill water CH level, using the Leslies calcium hypochlorite is criminal. They should not even sell that stuff.
Read SLAM Process. Your pH should be close to 7.2 and CYA at 30 ppm. Then raise your FC to SLAM level and maintain several times per day until you pass the three criteria.
With your fill water CH level, using the Leslies calcium hypochlorite is criminal. They should not even sell that stuff.
the HTH kit already has the CYA test, as well as the alkalinity and hardness tests. It appears the FAS-DPD is all I'm missing.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,766
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
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