Pentair VS pump estimated watt usage?

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Brant

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2024
190
Boerne Texas
I'm curious how accurate the pentair intellicenter/app is at estimating watts being used by a variable speed pump. Has anyone verified if the estimated power (watts) listed in the app are close to actual power (watts) used?

I wonder if these numbers are based on a certain amount of friction loss in the plumbing. Surely the pumps power usage at a given RPM varies somewhat based on load.

I'm asking because I would like to build a spreadsheet to calculate approximate cost to run my pumps at different speeds. I'm somewhat skeptical of any numbers provided by a manufacturer because the real world conditions are often different than perfect conditions on a test bench.

I might need to just get a current meter to just test real world conditions unless someone here know how accurate these pentair estimated numbers are.

Thanks in advance!
 
The pumps measure volts and amps.

I do not know if they only measure volts and amps at the drive input of 240 volts or also the 3-Phase output.

You can get a wattmeter.

Check volts, amps and power factor to get VA (Apparent Power) and Real Power.




 
JamesW said:
The pumps measure volts and amps.

I do not know if they only measure volts and amps at the drive input of 240 volts or also the 3-Phase output.

You can get a wattmeter.

Check volts, amps and power factor to get VA (Apparent Power) and Real Power.




Click to expand...


James, can I just measure power (current in amps) using a cheap current clamp on the power wire feeding the pump and multiply it by 240v to calculate equivalent watts? or is this too rudimentary?
 
Jimrahbe said:
Brant,

Why????? :mrgreen:

My 3 HP IntelliFlo runs at 24/7, mostly at 1200 rpm.. About 200 watts per the pump..

It does not even show up as a rounding error on my electrical bill... :)

It may be off a little, but it can't be too much.

Thanks,

Jim R
Click to expand...
This is a new build and I'm still playing with how i want to operate it. Playing around with numbers on a spreadsheet, I figured my $ to run the pump varies between $25 to $40/month. I didn't realize this until I started inputting numbers.

I'm likely running my pump at a higher rate than i need because I have an elevated spa/overflow that if I dont have a high enough flow, it fails to overflow.

I want to maintain a minimal flow to the spa so it doesn't turn green and that flow needs to have some room to buffer because as the filter clogs, my flow is reduced. I'm not wanting to run the pump in a set GPM because i plan to use the spa overflow as my main indicator on when it's time to clean my filter.

Additionally, I'm also considering the lifespan of the pump and curious if running it at a lower speed would increase the life of it. So basically just doing comparisons so I know what the differences are. I like to know.
 
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Brant,

Many here have raised spillover spas, and heaters.. they run between 1500 and 1800 rpm.. Make sure you get a larger (3 HP) VS pump vs. the smaller (1.5 HP) VS pump.. The larger the pump, the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.. The slower you can run it, the less it costs.. The slower you run it, the quieter it is.. You almost have to touch my pump to make sure it is still running... :mrgreen:

Without any 'proof' I personally believe that running 24/7, at a low rpm, is better for the longevity of the pump vs. starting and stopping the pump each day. So far I have been doing this for over 12 years, without any issues.. Only time will tell..

If you are getting an automation system, there is a better way than running your spillover all day.. Automation systems have a 'Spillway' mode.. It sucks water from the pool and sends it all back to the spa.. You just schedule it to run for half an hour, twice a day, and it will keep your spa perfectly sanitized..

Are you going with a Saltwater pool??

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
Brant,

Many here have raised spillover spas, and heaters.. they run between 1500 and 1800 rpm.. Make sure you get a larger (3 HP) VS pump vs. the smaller (1.5 HP) VS pump.. The larger the pump, the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.. The slower you can run it, the less it costs.. The slower you run it, the quieter it is.. You almost have to touch my pump to make sure it is still running... :mrgreen:

Without any 'proof' I personally believe that running 24/7, at a low rpm, is better for the longevity of the pump vs. starting and stopping the pump each day. So far I have been doing this for over 12 years, without any issues.. Only time will tell..

If you are getting an automation system, there is a better way than running your spillover all day.. Automation systems have a 'Spillway' mode.. It sucks water from the pool and sends it all back to the spa.. You just schedule it to run for half an hour, twice a day, and it will keep your spa perfectly sanitized..

Are you going with a Saltwater pool??

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Pool is built, plumbed, etc. I have three 3 hp VS pumps, 2.5" and 3" supply lines. Oversized spa jet plumbing. 10 jets, no blower. Everything is quiet and runs awesome. I also have a designated spillway valve thats automated so I can filter the pool and run the spa overflow (as a visual feature) when guests are over. I plumbed it to be fully automated and controlled from my phone.

I guess the thought of the spa sitting without flow for 23 hrs a day kinda stresses me out. I feel like that water will get stagnant. Maybe this is irrational.

I have a sand filter (using turbidex media) and I have experienced the overflow stop overflowing after about 2 weeks between backflushes. As mentioned, the pool is new (less than 1 month) so I'm sure there is a fair amount of plaster dust still accumulating in the filter. This lack of flow to the spa seemed like a good indicator that the flow had reduced. Looking in the app, flow dropped from around 50 gpm to just over 20 gpm. I hadn't been monitoring it too closely at that point because I figured I would use the pressure gauge on the filter to determine when it was time to backflush. Well according to the gauge, it was not time to clean but based on the flow, it was.

Please don't berate me for using a sand filter. I knew the pros/cons going into this and have been educated plenty of time by people on this forum. We can just agree that we all have differing opinions on the matter.

I also have a salt cell but have not yet added salt or hooked it up. Im currently running a spacer in its place. I intend to switch to salt at some point but right now I'm using liquid and trichlor tabs because I want to see how long I can maintain the pool before my CYA starts climbing. This is for my own knowledge and also to get an understanding of chemical needs/costs so i have a good comparison. Again, please dont berate me.

As far as monitoring chems.... I'm already using a TF-Pro test kit and keeping my LSI/CSI in check.
 
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Brant said:
Please don't berate me for using a sand filter.
Click to expand...
Brant,

A filter is a filter, just use the one you want.. :goodjob:

I personally like large cartridge filters as they only need to be cleaned once a year..

Others here would rather die than give up their DE filters..

And... many, like you, love their sand filters..

I think some of us might get a little passionate about why my Ford filter is better than your Chevy filter, but hope we never berate someone for their choice.. :(

Three, 3 HP VS pumps... I can see why you might be a little concerned about the electrical costs... :mrgreen:

In my opinion, saltwater is the only way to go. :)

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Brant,

A filter is a filter, just use the one you want.. :goodjob:

I personally like large cartridge filters as they only need to be cleaned once a year..

Others here would rather die than give up their DE filters..

And... many, like you, love their sand filters..

I think some of us might get a little passionate about why my Ford filter is better than your Chevy filter, but hope we never berate someone for their choice.. :(

Three, 3 HP VS pumps... I can see why you might be a little concerned about the electrical costs... :mrgreen:

In my opinion, saltwater is the only way to go. :)

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Jim, thanks for understanding! 😆

So about your spa.... you only flow to your spa for 30 minutes 2x/day and you don't have any issues with algae growth?

Did u base your spa flow requirements on turnover or something else? Is there a recommended turnover rate to keep the water clear if I was picking a rate (gpm) and time to run water to the spa?
 
Brant,

Sorry I was not clear.. I have a very simple pool and no spa..

But, we have several members here that do have spillover spas, and use the 'Spillway' mode..

Let's see if Allen can chime in... @ajw22

We do not believe in the 'turnover' myth... for spas or pools... :mrgreen: If you are really worried about the spa, you could run the spillway mode 3 or 4 times a day.. It is not a requirement, it is just one option that allows you to not run a constant spillover..

Chemicals keep your pool/spa sanitized and algae free, not the number of times the water passes through the filter.. Your filter is not there to prevent you from getting algae, it is there to just capture the junk that falls into your pool and floats.. By the time your filter starts seeing algae, you have already lost the algae war...

Tell me what kind of SWCG you have, what size pool is it rated for, and how big your pool is in gallons..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Brant,

Sorry I was not clear.. I have a very simple pool and no spa..

But, we have several members here that do have spillover spas, and use the 'Spillway' mode..

Let's see if Allen can chime in... @ajw22

We do not believe in the 'turnover' myth... for spas or pools... :mrgreen: If you are really worried about the spa, you could run the spillway mode 3 or 4 times a day.. It is not a requirement, it is just one option that allows you to not run a constant spillover..

Chemicals keep your pool/spa sanitized and algae free, not the number of times the water passes through the filter.. Your filter is not there to prevent you from getting algae, it is there to just capture the junk that falls into your pool and floats.. By the time your filter starts seeing algae, you have already lost the algae war...

Tell me what kind of SWCG you have, what size pool is it rated for, and how big your pool is in gallons..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
I have a pentair IC40. 24k pool. My main concern with spa overflow is Ph control. Ph has been difficult to control (keep low) as it's a new pool/plaster. I understand that this is a common issue with new pools. I also understand that the more the water is aerated, the more Ph will rise. So spa overflow is definitely on my radar of things that I want to keep to a reasonable/minimal level. Knowing what the minimum water replacement (turnover) is a measurable benchmark. If something like this doesn't exist, I guess it becomes a trial and error thing.
 
TinFoilHat said:
I'm surprised that anyone putting that much money into a pool with that much equipment is concerned with how many watts it uses or what the electric bill is. But.... this is in Texas where the utilities rape and pillage when they can.
Click to expand...
Not "concerned", just curious. I like to know. Some people are happy being clueless but that's not the way I'm wired. Never has been. Maybe it's because I started out with nothing except a good work ethic.
 
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