I just installed this pump. But when I push quick clean the water disappears out of the pump, the pool jets don't come on. I don't see a leak. I did the wiring how it was on the old pump. What else is wrong?
Pentair superflo vs
- Thread starter jj71787
- Start date
jj,
The pump has to suck water from the pool to continually replace the water in the pump basket..
It could be that the lid gasket is missing..
It could be that the valve to your skimmer is closed..
It could be that your weir door is stuck up.
The good news is that it can't be because of the way it is wired.
Tell us more and show us some pics.
Thanks,
Jim R.
The pump has to suck water from the pool to continually replace the water in the pump basket..
It could be that the lid gasket is missing..
It could be that the valve to your skimmer is closed..
It could be that your weir door is stuck up.
The good news is that it can't be because of the way it is wired.
Tell us more and show us some pics.
Thanks,
Jim R.
JJ,
What did you use to glue the pipes together?
One thing you could try is to switch the valve right in front of the pump (Intake valve) to only open one pipe at a time. The valve now set to fully open both pipes, I assume the skimmer and the main drain. I would try priming using just the skimmer and then just the main drain to see if either of them work by themselves.
Confirm that there is an O-Ring under the pump lid.
Any air leak in the suction line that is connected to the front of your pump, will not allow the pump to suck water from the pool.
Thanks,
Jim R.
What did you use to glue the pipes together?
One thing you could try is to switch the valve right in front of the pump (Intake valve) to only open one pipe at a time. The valve now set to fully open both pipes, I assume the skimmer and the main drain. I would try priming using just the skimmer and then just the main drain to see if either of them work by themselves.
Confirm that there is an O-Ring under the pump lid.
Any air leak in the suction line that is connected to the front of your pump, will not allow the pump to suck water from the pool.
Thanks,
Jim R.
As Jim said but I'm starting to question your work beginning from the electrical all through the pvc connections. How did you prove that the pump is correctly powered and working then you need to verify that all the new glue joints are sound.......
Yes it is the main drain and skimmer. I kept it the way it was on the old pump. I did try with just the skimmer and had no results.
I'm afraid it must be an air leak in the plumbing.
I confirmed wiring with the instructions and several YouTube videos.
I am afraid it's the plumbing. It didn't line up from the old pump so I improvised
If we just say let's assume one of the two lines coming to the suction is good and not leaking air then one should be pulling water back to the pump. That tells me maybe the last connection at the pump is suspect. Looking close at the picture the suction line between the pump and the valve looks to be at an angle. The grey coupling before the pump looks like it may not have been glue compared to the rest especially if the pipe come in at an angle. I'd use a slow flowing garden hose by the last two connections to see if one of the two line produce suction with the water running over the coupling and the pump connection.
Tried running the hose on all sections but had no change. I guess I have to try the smoke or soap test
- May 3, 2014
- 58,736
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
MSchutzer
Silver Supporter
JJ,
What kind of glue did you use on the pipes? That glue doesn’t look like PVC glue, it sort of looks like epoxy or something given its thickness.
Did you use PVC primer on the joints before you applied the glue? After applying the glue did you quickly assemble each joint making sure that the pipe bottomed in its fitting?
Can you even remove the pumps strainer basket with the way the outlet piping is plumbed over the top of the pump?
While you probably don’t want to here this I suspect that you may have to cut out that plumbing out replace it.
I would suggest moving the pump forward a bit so that the pumps outlet can be plumbed right into the filter. This will eliminate the piping over the pumps basket. I’m not sure why you have that Jandy valve on the pump outlet plumbing, is this for draining? Moving the pump forward will also make it possible to service the pump in the future should it ever need a new pump seal. Right now the pump is right up against the wall and there’s no room to slide the motor back at all.
Those street 90’s on the inlet side don’t look like the fittings are bottomed in the joints. PVC fittings are tapered and the fittings won’t bottom when dry fit, the fittings only bottom when you use PVC glue on the pipe and fittings as the glue softens the pipe allowing it to slide into place.
Please confirm the type of glue you used on the pipes?
What kind of glue did you use on the pipes? That glue doesn’t look like PVC glue, it sort of looks like epoxy or something given its thickness.
Did you use PVC primer on the joints before you applied the glue? After applying the glue did you quickly assemble each joint making sure that the pipe bottomed in its fitting?
Can you even remove the pumps strainer basket with the way the outlet piping is plumbed over the top of the pump?
While you probably don’t want to here this I suspect that you may have to cut out that plumbing out replace it.
I would suggest moving the pump forward a bit so that the pumps outlet can be plumbed right into the filter. This will eliminate the piping over the pumps basket. I’m not sure why you have that Jandy valve on the pump outlet plumbing, is this for draining? Moving the pump forward will also make it possible to service the pump in the future should it ever need a new pump seal. Right now the pump is right up against the wall and there’s no room to slide the motor back at all.
Those street 90’s on the inlet side don’t look like the fittings are bottomed in the joints. PVC fittings are tapered and the fittings won’t bottom when dry fit, the fittings only bottom when you use PVC glue on the pipe and fittings as the glue softens the pipe allowing it to slide into place.
Please confirm the type of glue you used on the pipes?
I did use pvc primer and glue. I can take pics if necessary. I noticed I couldn't get the basket out until after it was done.
Ugh man if I have to rip out the plumbing again it's probably better to get a pro. I guess I can't do it.
I also noticed if I push on the pipe going to the filter, water comes out of the union. I will try to tape it and see what happens
I found an issue which I hope is a quick fix and is the problem.
The union on the top is loose, won't come off but it's loose. Water is coming out of it now that I played around with it.
Can I just add cement and push the pipes tight together?
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,227
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
These are all problems, particularly not being able to remove your basket for service. The wiring coming from the wall to the pump is exposed, which means that you run the risk of water intrusion. The wiring should be run through conduit or a whip. Aside from the obvious danger, variable speed pumps have some fairly sensitive electronics. You don't want to risk of shorting out the drive and frying your pump.
It might be best to call around for a quote to ensure the pump is installed properly. Otherwise, your best bet as previously mentioned is to redo the plumbing and electrical.
Best wishes.
You and everyone were right. I want to try 1 more crack at it. I ripped out the pipes. 1 union will line up directly to top valve with a coupler.
The front union will line up with a small pvc pipe to the front valve.