The mac OS X version of the “patcher” contains all the boot loader tools, and the base “image” called pool.bin, to return a bricked Protocol Adapter to a usable state so it can then be patched with the normal updater.
You cannot access these on the windows EXE updater tool because it’s compiled into an Application.
But, if you download the mac updater, and open that PKG into a tool like 7Zip or Winrar, you can click through the file tree, and locate the Pentair folder , which contains an executable boot loader tool, and a base image.
The mac patcher is actually just the windows app, but built to run under Wine (Windows-Emulation) inside MacOs. So all the same windows stuff is there. Plus extras.
Note: WINE actually stands for “wine is not an emulator” but I digress.
Voila, connect to the adapter on your local network, with the Ram Loader, upload the base image (pool.bin), then the adapter reboots, then run the standard firmware update tool for windows, adapter can be seen on the network as “Pentair: Xx:XX:XX”.... same rules apply, must be on the same logical network.
Bada book, bada bing.
I spent hours working this out, refusing to believe the protocol adapter had to be replaced. And now, I didn’t have to. I’m back up good as new.
I was so exhausted searching forums for a solution, only to find Pentair constantly replying with "call support". There has to be a way to self-service this. And there is. So, for anyone who like me, googled their fingertips to death, without finding a solution, I hope this guide helps you.
Ok, here's a detailed list of instructions. This is written for someone who wants to fix their Adapter, but isn't super Power User, Savvy.
I am REALLY hoping the powers that be at Pe**air don't take this as me circumventing their support processes. But, if there's
a simple way to recover a bricked adapter without replacing it or wasting time waiting for support, then I sort of think it's in poor form, if they don't provide at least a
"No warranty implied" "at your own risk" set of instructions for the DIY folks out there. (Which most folks on TFP would qualify as.) So since they don't, I'm filling that void with these instructions.
Anyway, no warranty implied, at your own risk. If you aren't comfortable with the concept of headless devices (no monitor and keyboard), and working with firmware, base OS, bootloaders, and general
computing concepts I recommend you go to your local Middle school and find someone who is.
Here we go:
Before you begin, note. The ethernet chip inside this device is a 10mbit chip. It fortunately DOES run at Full Duplex, meaning it can send and receive at the same time. Many folks just
plug this right into an ethernet cable, and into their home router and never have an issue. I would suggest this isn't typical. At least based on my 20+ years of experience in the field.
These Protocol Adapters are actually two devices in one. There's a logic device and power board | media converter, which takes RS-232/RS-485 serial communications from the RF interface of screenlogic (the device that connects to your panel outside.)
and converts that RF Serial connection into an ethernet packet that the application can use. That little green 4-wire connector is power, ground and a TX/RX signal. That's it. The magic happens on the
Rabbit SBC (single board computer) which is attached to this board with a long Pin header, providing power to the computer, from the RF unit's 12V plug, and the TX/RX data from the Panel, over RF.
So what you really have is TouchPanel---->Outdoor-RF-Module<(---RF Signal--)Indoor-ScreenLogic-Box---->Protocol_Adapter_Brick--->Your_Wired_Network. If you're interested in specifics on the little Computer inside your protocol
adapter, my version is OEMd from Digi, and you can actually purchase these (albeit with no software on them) in quantity. This one in the link is "Similar" but not exact". The one in my adapter has 16GB Flash Chip, and 2MB RAM.
Link to Digi Rabbit 3000
I know you nerds are curious, so it's always nice to include links.
So, back to connectivity, depending on the type of network device you're plugging this into (a home router, a cisco switch, or connected to your PC NIC with a crossover-cable.) it's probably
going to be BETTER and more stable for you to FORCE the other end of the connection to 10Mbit/Full. Many devices that allow you to configure them, will default to "Auto".
Sometimes (frequently), little devices like this don't play so well with "Auto". Especially with old media types like 10BaseT. Which is frankly, a probable cause of many bricked devices. Because if the connection is broken
during the firmware update, it can corrupt the flash. Since you can't just pop in a USB Drive or a CD and reformat the device, you're kind of hosed.
The only way to recover would be to use the UDPDownload application, to reload the "base" OS image on the adapter. (as we will do with my method.)
If you've ever applied an update or patch to any device, even an iPhone, you'll notice it recommends you either have a fully charged battery, or leave it plugged in to an uninterruptable power source. That's
because "Flash" is electronically written and erased. So, when you click "update" all of these tools tell the device to electrically "Erase" the Flash chip, and then begin "writing" the new firmware.
If you interrupt that process 1/3, 1/2, or 99.9% the way through, and it doesn't finish, then you have what we commonly call "a brick". Meaning, that's about all it's good for.
Fortunately in our case, these little computers that the Adapter is built on top of, have a "bootloader or ROM" software image, which is a small operating system that allows this device
get basic network connectivity, so you can access it with a programming application, to load firmware or features, or change settings on the device.
When the device is in this "bricked" mode. It's still able to communicate on the network. It's "listening" for the right commands from the network Application, to do "something". In this case we want to tell it:
"Hey dummy, you don't have the software i need to access you, so please download this image file called "pool.bin". This is just a binary image, containing the ScreenLogic software that runs on the Adapter. The ONLY
way to load the software onto the bricked device is by using the custom tool UDPDownload.exe, which is buried inside the Mac version of the update tool. (lucky for us.)
Ok, so enough technology class, here's some Important tips for success:
1.) Verify first that your protocol adapter is attached to the same network as your PC.
2.) Verify you can ping it at it's IP address. On windows, use the command "ping -t <adapter ip address>. the -t is "persistent" which means it will ping constantly. Before beginning, make sure the pings are
uninterrupted. If you have a stable network connection between your PC and the Protocol Adapter, you should see no Drops. If you see 1 o2 2 out of 20, it's not a big deal. Any more than that
speaks to a connectivity issue. Try a different and SHORTER patch cable.
3.) <recommend> Also, you may want to launch the standard Updater tool. (right-click, run as administrator.) Even if it's bricked you should be able to see the device listed as either Pentair: AA-AA-AA or in my case
the device was bricked and it just read "RAM LOADER (10.1.1.200)" (your IP will be different, this is just for example.) This was my first tip off that this device LIKELY has a bootloader running, and thus, can LIKELY be
reflashed over the network if I could just figure out how.
Now to the "how"...
So let's get the files we need.
Link to MacOS Updater for version .738
(right-click, save_as to a shorter name, like "MacUpdater.zip" <you'll see why in a moment>)
Notice this is a *.zip file ? Well, you would typically unzip/decompress this on your Mac, and drag or move the App to your "applications" container in OSX. Then run it as you would any other Mac App.
Well, when that happens, you're actually just executing WINE, behind the scenes. This application is tricked into thinking it's running under Windows. So, in order to make that work, this Mac archive contains all
of the necessary libraries, and config files, for this app to work, on Mac, pretty much just as it does on windows. With one catch.
(in windows, when we run the .exe, we don't get to peek into the structure of the app, and see the components.They're obfuscated)
So, in our case, we want to open the Zip file, in windows, so we can look at the files and folders contained in the archive. That's why we download the Mac version.
Pro-Tip, Go get yourself a free copy of an Archive utility, or you can also use the built-in Windows archive tool. I prefer 7Zip, or WinRar.
Open the archive, and Drill down into ..\"MacUpdater.zip"\__MACOSX\Pentair_Brick Update738.app\Contents\Resources...
Within this folder you'll see the following directories.
+dosdevices
+drive_c
+English.lproj
+WineskinMenuScripts
+...and a bunch of language files which is for language localization.
Now, on our windows machine, if we installed a Pentair App, then these files would typically be located in C:\program files (x86)\Pentair\ or C:\program files\Pentair\.
And as luck would have it, that is the exact path the needed files are in, under the archive, in the folder marked +drive_c.
Within the Drive_C archive folder, you'll see the familiar directory tree for windows, so, just drag and drop, or click on this folder and choose "extract" and extract these files to your desktop. The folder you
want is under ..\Drive_C\Program Files\Pentair. Copy or extract that Whole Pentair Folder, to your Desktop.
In this folder you'll see the needed Flash bootloader utility called "UDPDownload.exe". This is a small application that is written and able to "talk" to the base "bootloader" on the Little mini-computer, that the protocol adapter is built on.
Instructions for how to use this application, are in the folder with it. It should detect your local Adapter, and it's MAC address and IP
should be in the top field. All you do is click the (...) next to "File" , and select "Pool.Bin". Then click "download" at the top menu bar. The UDPDownload app will "upload" the pool.bin application onto your protocol adapter,
and when complete, it will tell it to reboot itself. NOTE: Once it reboots and comes back online, it will likely have set itself to DHCP again, and MAY have a new IP Address.
You "should" however, be able to just go over to the Regular Windows Updater tool, run it as administrator, and now should be able to successfully update to the latest Code, or whichever firmware you'd like to run.
