Pentair QUAD 100 DE - Air Bleeder Screen Cap replacement due to tear?

tomas21

Gold Supporter
Jan 24, 2020
219
California
Pool Size
29000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Well ... as always... performed filter cleaning for the season and the air bleeder screen cap has a tear... just like every other year so far almost...

What replacement part does everyone advise as there is Pentair and aftermarkets.... ?
 
Look forward to input on what @1poolman1 uses and any others that have had success with a Air Bleeder Screen Cap that lasts beyond a season... or at least a maybe better quality one if there is such a thing.

Also curious how this air-relief tube works in the middle exactly... assuming that tube is taking on pressure that pushes the mesh screen down and overtime creates a bend on the stainless steel mesh that eventually tears due to pressure, elements, and debris?
 
@tomas21
When you opened the filter, was there a lot of DE and/or debris on the air relief screen?

Do you backwash and recharge the filter or always tear it down for a full cleaning?
How much DE do you add after a backwash and/or full tear-down?
Do you weigh the DE or just add 'x' amount of scoops?
What is your clean filter pressure?
At what pressure do you backwash and/or tear-down the filter?
Does the filter have a multiport valve or a slide type backwash valve?

The air at the top of the filter gets removed via venturi action. The air enters the screen, goes down the tube, thru the lower mainifold and back out to the pool.

Chances are that if the filter is overly dirty there will be additional downward pressure on the screen, more easily collapsing it and possibly damaging it in the process.
 
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  • When you opened the filter, was there a lot of DE and/or debris on the air relief screen? --- Yes, the air relief screen was covered in debris
  • Do you backwash and recharge the filter or always tear it down for a full cleaning? --- There is no backwash installed on this QUAD DE filter, it is always tear it down and do a full cleaning
  • How much DE do you add after a backwash and/or full tear-down? -- I add about 80lbs of DE on a full cleaning
  • Do you weigh the DE or just add 'x' amount of scoops? My blue cup is 1/2lb per scoop so I do 8 scoops of Celaperl
  • What is your clean filter pressure? Pool pump on circ at about 1000 rpm is about 1-3PSI after new filter cleaning
  • At what pressure do you backwash and/or tear-down the filter? I normally tear down filter when it reaches about ~10 PSI in the same mode give or take
  • Does the filter have a multiport valve or a slide type backwash valve? Neither
  • The air at the top of the filter gets removed via venturi action. The air enters the screen, goes down the tube, thru the lower mainifold and back out to the pool.... Thanks!
  • Chances are that if the filter is overly dirty there will be additional downward pressure on the screen, more easily collapsing it and possibly damaging it in the process..... I'm guessing your right and probably need to clean a little sooner and see how the screen looks

Ordered this as an emergency order i placed last night for next day delivery as I call local supply houses if they have Pentair OEM part in stock
 
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Let's see what @1poolman1 uses.
Have only seen one of those screens tear. Filter hadn't been cleaned in 3 years. Filter tank was completely filled with DE. Used OEM.
Only replaced a few others that customers had lost. Always OEM as never looked for aftermarket ones.
That screen is the same as used in Pentair's larger cartridge filters as well.
Mine was somewhat crushed this year, but its old and has yet to be replaced.
Strange that it is yearly for the OP.
 
Oops - I forgot the quad DE doen't have a backwash option.

You need to clean the filter when the pressure rises 20%-25% over clean pressure.
That being said, after a cleaning/recharge, run the pump at 2000 or maybe 2500 rpm and note the filter pressure. Then check the pressure at that same rpm occassionally. Clean the filter when pressure rises 20%-25% above the clean pressure at that higher rpm. Waiting until the pressure rises 3-10 times over clean pressure at 1000 rpmmay be part of the issue.

The quad DE 100 requires 10 pounds of DE. I would suggest weighing it out next time - or at least weigh the DE quantity in one scoop and adjust the amount you add accordingly.
 
Agree with all your points... will be cleaning filter sooner this season if they pressure exceeds 20-25% over the baseline that I'll capture after cleaning is complete running at a higher rpm... since i track the logs .

DE Media Calcs.. i historically haven't gone to the full 100 sq ft dose of DE but 80 sq ft based on guidance from many on this forum and service industry.
  • 1LB of DE is equal to ½ LB of perlite
  • If 80lbs of DE is what I’m using then it has been 16 scoops with (1/2lb Blue Devil)
  • So the equivalent 80lbs of perlite, I'm doing 8 scoops with 1/2lb Blue Devil

1713801438672.png
 
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Agree with all the experts points. Starting at 2psi and waiting until 10psi is a 5X increase in system pressure or a 500% increase. TFP recommends cleaning at 25% …

Also, Quads do come with a push/pull backwash valve. I have one. Some people opt not to install it. I find it to be useful in some instances but I rarely backwash.

My screen is crushed like @1poolman1 described but never torn. My filter is 11 years old. My system pressure is typically 9-10psi clean. 12psi is when I tear it down which is once per year.

I use regular DE. Perlite is an acceptable substitute but it is a different material and it does not have the same flow characteristics as DE. This is why the manufacturer suggests using half the amount. They are both decent filter media but DE performs a little better than perlite.
 
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Agree with all the experts points. Starting at 2psi and waiting until 10psi is a 5X increase in system pressure or a 500% increase. TFP recommends cleaning at 25% …

Also, Quads do come with a push/pull backwash valve. I have one. Some people opt not to install it. I find it to be useful in some instances but I rarely backwash.

My screen is crushed like @1poolman1 described but never torn. My filter is 11 years old. My system pressure is typically 9-10psi clean. 12psi is when I tear it down which is once per year.

I use regular DE. Perlite is an acceptable substitute but it is a different material and it does not have the same flow characteristics as DE. This is why the manufacturer suggests using half the amount. They are both decent filter media but DE performs a little better than perlite.
Thanks... always used CelaPerl since day 1... wonder if that is related or it is more due to not cleaning sooner when pressure exceeds the 25% over cleaning baseline... probably the latter : )
 
No the pipe wasn't even touching the screen and physically can't given the lip on the bottom piece that slides onto the pipe... my guess is the downward pressure and materials that were caked on the it caused it to finally give way.. Found a pic i took yesterday... : (

1713805363878.png
 
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Maybe this aftermaket style that has rounded edges vs. Pentair sharper right angle edges will make it more forgiving plus me cleaning sooner after 25% increase in pressure over time..

1713805500336.png
 
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I think the celaperl might be causing the cartridges to plug up and then the air screen is being force to handle too much flow. Cleaning more frequently might solve the problem but switching to regular DE could also help.

My screen has never looked that plugged up
 
Thanks... always used CelaPerl since day 1... wonder if that is related or it is more due to not cleaning sooner when pressure exceeds the 25% over cleaning baseline... probably the latter : )
You aren't going to know until you start cleaning it more frequently and possibly switch to regular pool-grade DE.
 
Agree... if I am to consider moving away from the CelaPerl... any pool-grade DE recommendations available in Southern California...?

Also curious about any use of CelaPool ..
 

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