Pentair IntellipH Controller Replacement Questions (2x Fried PCB)

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tucsontico

tucsontico

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 30, 2014
350
Tucson, AZ
For the second time in 3 years, my Pentair IntellipH controller printed circuit board (PCB) has fried itself. The input cable shows the obvious signs of burnt pins and several integrated circuit chips are blackened. The were no apparent power outages or surges in the days before the most recent burnout.

I've searched the forum and have read most of the threads regarding this recurring issue. However, most of the info is several years old. Due to my high CH fill water I need to have the IntellipH to keep pH in acceptable range. I travel quite a bit an cannot add MA to the pool with proper regularity.

My questions are:

1) Are there any alternative controllers for the Pentair IntellipH?
2) Would updating my EasyTouch panel to a newer version solve this recurring overload? (I have a 2012 vintage EasyTouch panel with an external SWG power supply.)

Thanks for any advice/help.
 
T,

I am not a fan of the iPh because of the problems you are having, and because it integrates with the SWCG.

If I were going to install an Acid feeder, I'd want it to be a standalone unit, like a Stenner pump. I really don't know an awful lot about the iPh, but assume you could do away with the electronics, and just use one of your EasyTouch relays to turn the acid pump itself on and off on a schedule.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
T,

I am not a fan of the iPh because of the problems you are having, and because it integrates with the SWCG.

If I were going to install an Acid feeder, I'd want it to be a standalone unit, like a Stenner pump. I really don't know an awful lot about the iPh, but assume you could do away with the electronics, and just use one of your EasyTouch relays to turn the acid pump itself on and off on a schedule.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
J,
Thanks for the input. There was mention of similar idea in a thread from 2017 (sic). Not sure how the OP faired with the suggestion. I'll look into it. Due to time constraints, (I'm on another trip next week) I purchased another ipH controller and will install it today.

While that one continues to do it's job, I'll investigate the possibility of rewiring with a relay for timed acid injection.
Cheers, T
 
@Dirk and @ogdento Have an ongoing iPh and SWCG thread going on.

Pentair ic40, surge board, intelliph and swg transformer.

I need to open mine up and take a look. I'll try and get to that this weekend. I've been running the SWCG since March/April of 2020, and I added the IpH in October of 2020 (with about 1 week run time before cold water disabled it). I do have Oct/March where the system is off due to cold...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Yes, several of us have been addressing this issue, both in very recent threads and with our own units. We've come up with two work-arounds, I've actually executed both:

1. You can modify the wiring in the controller itself to help ward off the over-current issue, or

2. You can forgo the controller and run the IntellipH pump using the existing IntelliChlor transformer wired through an EasyTouch relay, triggered by an EasyTouch schedule.

Either require a bit of DIYing, with some skill at soldering and wiring.

I devised a scheme, complete with a wiring diagram, that accomplishes both of the solutions above, either available with the flip of a switch. Marty gave you a link where we are discussing some of the fixes. I posted a detailed thread on my solution, though it's not particularly simple.

Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water

As Pentair IntellipH (IpH) automatic acid dosing system owners know, the IpH depends on a Pentair IntellliChlor (IC) saltwater chlorine generator. The IpH uses the IC's power supply, and monitors its flow switch, so that it won't dispense acid if the IC is reporting low flow. Unfortunately, it...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I'd be happy to help you further, if you want to give any of these solutions a go...
 
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Dirk said:
Yes, several of us have been addressing this issue, both in very recent threads and with our own units. We've come up with two work-arounds, I've actually executed both:

1. You can modify the wiring in the controller itself to help ward off the over-current issue, or

2. You can forgo the controller and run the IntellipH pump using the existing IntelliChlor transformer wired through an EasyTouch relay, triggered by an EasyTouch schedule.

Either require a bit of DIYing, with some skill at soldering and wiring.

I devised a scheme, complete with a wiring diagram, that accomplishes both of the solutions above, either available with the flip of a switch. Marty gave you a link where we are discussing some of the fixes. I posted a detailed thread on my solution, though it's not particularly simple.

Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water

As Pentair IntellipH (IpH) automatic acid dosing system owners know, the IpH depends on a Pentair IntellliChlor (IC) saltwater chlorine generator. The IpH uses the IC's power supply, and monitors its flow switch, so that it won't dispense acid if the IC is reporting low flow. Unfortunately, it...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I'd be happy to help you further, if you want to give any of these solutions a go...
Click to expand...
Dirk,

Thanks for your detailed information. I installed a new IpH controller yesterday, but am interested in your workaround. I will digest your hack and may use it when the new controller fries itself. Three strikes and you're out!
Cheers,
T
 
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mknauss said:
@Dirk and @ogdento Have an ongoing iPh and SWCG thread going on.

Pentair ic40, surge board, intelliph and swg transformer.

I need to open mine up and take a look. I'll try and get to that this weekend. I've been running the SWCG since March/April of 2020, and I added the IpH in October of 2020 (with about 1 week run time before cold water disabled it). I do have Oct/March where the system is off due to cold...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks! Have read that link and must digest it a bit. I'll probably use that hack when my newest IpH controller fries itself.

T
 
tucsontico said:
Dirk,

Thanks for your detailed information. I installed a new IpH controller yesterday, but am interested in your workaround. I will digest your hack and may use it when the new controller fries itself. Three strikes and you're out!
Cheers,
T
Click to expand...
There are several flavors of the hack. The one that rewires the IpH Controller to circumvent the overcurrent problem should be done the day after the warranty expires. That could conceivably save your Controller from ever having that problem.

That same hack can fix a fried connector and restore a non-working Controller to working status (that worked for mine, because my board wasn't fried, only the connector was).

The hack that eliminates the Controller altogether should be done if the warranty has expired and the Controller board fries beyond repair (if the above hack doesn't fix it).

My hybrid hack, which maintains a working IpH Controller and allows acid injection during the months the water is too cold, is a different thing altogether (but uses combined and modified versions of the previous hacks).

It's pretty confusing, I imagine. Use your IpH as is until the warranty expires, and the day it does revisit these various threads and choose which hack you want to try. Until then, let Pentair continue to replace your fried stuff on their dime. That gives you some time to digest the various threads.
 
Dirk said:
There are several flavors of the hack. The one that rewires the IpH Controller to circumvent the overcurrent problem should be done the day after the warranty expires. That could conceivably save your Controller from ever having that problem.

That same hack can fix a fried connector and restore a non-working Controller to working status (that worked for mine, because my board wasn't fried, only the connector was).

The hack that eliminates the Controller altogether should be done if the warranty has expired and the Controller board fries beyond repair (if the above hack doesn't fix it).

My hybrid hack, which maintains a working IpH Controller and allows acid injection during the months the water is too cold, is a different thing altogether (but uses combined and modified versions of the previous hacks).

It's pretty confusing, I imagine. Use your IpH as is until the warranty expires, and the day it does revisit these various threads and choose which hack you want to try. Until then, let Pentair continue to replace your fried stuff on their dime. That gives you some time to digest the various threads.
Click to expand...
Good advice regarding the warranty. However, I'm trying another approach to the burnt connector problem. On my new IpH controller, I removed the faceplate/PCB and put some dielectric grease on the connector pins for all the connections into the IpH controller. Hoping this will give solid connections and prevent arcing. Obviously won't solve an overcurrent but may prevent another failure mode.

BTW, just noticed the new IpH now allows communications with my Autelis automation controller. The new IpH firmware must've updated some comm outputs.Previously, could not get Autelis to "see" IpH and change IC40 chlorine output amounts. That option now works. :giggle:
 
Good news about the new IpH comms. I've always been disappointed that the IpH and my Pentair automation controller don't "talk" to each other at all. I'll be envious of your setup, especially if you can figure out a way to remotely control the IpH settings (not just the IC settings).

I like the grease idea. We've discussed that here, too, and I was going to pursue that myself. It's in my Amazon cart, just haven't ordered it yet, but I think it's a smart thing to do. I was going to use it on all the IpH and IC connectors. We think the pins themselves are the weak link. They're probably cheap metal to begin with, they start corroding, which starts to act like a resistor, which starts to get hot, and then it compounds from there until they just fry. The right grease should enhance the electrical connection and inhibit the corrosion, which should eliminate the heat build up.

What brand/type did you use? That's what's kept me from the purchase, because there seem to be many types, and I'm not quite sure which is the best for this use. This is the one I'm considering:

 

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Dirk said:
Good news about the new IpH comms. I've always been disappointed that the IpH and my Pentair automation controller don't "talk" to each other at all. I'll be envious of your setup, especially if you can figure out a way to remotely control the IpH settings (not just the IC settings).

I like the grease idea. We've discussed that here, too, and I was going to pursue that myself. It's in my Amazon cart, just haven't ordered it yet, but I think it's a smart thing to do. I was going to use it on all the IpH and IC connectors. We think the pins themselves are the weak link. They're probably cheap metal to begin with, they start corroding, which starts to act like a resistor, which starts to get hot, and then it compounds from there until they just fry. The right grease should enhance the electrical connection and inhibit the corrosion, which should eliminate the heat build up.

What brand/type did you use? That's what's kept me from the purchase, because there seem to be many types, and I'm not quite sure which is the best for this use. This is the one I'm considering:

Click to expand...
I used the CRC Dielectric Grease brand along with their QD Electrical Cleaner.


Cheers,
T
 
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Yah, that's where I was getting confused... That, and if I used a conductive grease, if inadvertently slopping it between two pins would cause a short.
 
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