Pentair Intellichlor is reading Low Salt, but chlorine output is at 100%. Possible?!

[wrr11]

Hi everyone! My husband and I purchased a house with an in-ground salt water pool last fall. This is our first year as both homeowners and pool owners, so to make things simple we hired the pool service who serviced the pool for the previous owners. However, I've been doing lots of research/messing around with the equipment as I want to fully understand the equipment, chemistry, etc.

We have two issues going on right now with our Intellichlor SWG.

1. The pool service was here last Friday and added salt to the pool as our SWG was reading low. Afterward, it read good salt but within 24 hours was reading 'Low Salt' again. My understanding is that salt doesn't just disappear from the pool, which makes me think the SWG is reading incorrectly.
2. From what I've read, if the SWG is reading low salt, it will output chlorine at a reduced capacity or not at all. Our Low Salt light is currently lit up, but the cell is also reading at maximum sanitizer output (all solid green LEDs indicating 100% output).

My questions are:

1. Could our SWG be operating at max capacity even with low salt levels? Basically trying to figure out if our SWG is bust and reading levels incorrectly, OR not actually producing chlorine when it says it is.
2. Is it common to need to add salt very frequently (once every 1-2 weeks)? I.e. -- is the add salt --> good salt reading --> low salt reading all within 24 hours reasonable?

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[ajw22]

The pool service was here last Friday and added salt to the pool as our SWG was reading low. Afterward, it read good salt but within 24 hours was reading 'Low Salt' again. My understanding is that salt doesn't just disappear from the pool, which makes me think the SWG is reading incorrectly.

Salt should never be added to the pool based only on the SWG system indications. Failures in the SWG can cause it to sense the incorrect salt level.

You should verify your actual salt level using the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

1. From what I've read, if the SWG is reading low salt, it will output chlorine at a reduced capacity or not at all. Our Low Salt light is currently lit up, but the cell is also reading at maximum sanitizer output (all solid green LEDs indicating 100% output).

The LOW SALT LED being red has two possible meanings:

1. Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The IntelliChlor SWG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency and is highly recommended to add salt.
2. Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600ppm. The IntelliChlor SWG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IntelliChlor SCG is OFF as shown by the green CELL LED being OFF..

See page 7 in https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...al_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf

My questions are:

1. Could our SWG be operating at max capacity even with low salt levels? Basically trying to figure out if our SWG is bust and reading levels incorrectly, OR not actually producing chlorine when it says it is.

If the CELL light is green it is generating chlorine.

1. Is it common to need to add salt very frequently (once every 1-2 weeks)? I.e. -- is the add salt --> good salt reading --> low salt reading all within 24 hours reasonable?

Do you have an autofill on your pool?

Needing to frequently add salt could mean you are losing water and salt through a leak int he pool.

Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Jimrahbe]

11,

The salt light and the sanitizer output LEDs have absolutely nothing to do with one another.

The output LEDs are just what you "want" the cell to produce, not what it is actually producing. Think of the output LEDs as you would an accelerator pedal in your car. You can push it to the floor, but that does not mean the engine is even running.

Like Allen, I never recommend adding salt unless I know what the "actual" salt level is, so I can compare it with whatever the cell is reporting. I use the Taylor K-1766 and smart-stir to measure my actual salt level.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[wrr11]

11,

The salt light and the sanitizer output LEDs have absolutely nothing to do with one another.

The output LEDs are just what you "want" the cell to produce, not what it is actually producing. Think of the output LEDs as you would an accelerator pedal in your car. You can push it to the floor, but that does not mean the engine is even running.

This is a super helpful clarifying point. I was thinking that the max chlorine setting meant it was actually producing max chlorine, and assumed the lights were confirmation of that. I just got a test (doesn't include salt levels) so I will test the chlorine to confirm either way.

Like Allen, I never recommend adding salt unless I know what the "actual" salt level is, so I can compare it with whatever the cell is reporting. I use the Taylor K-1766 and smart-stir to measure my actual salt level.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Just ordered that test! Thank you again!