Pentair Intellichlor IC20 Failure Double Check

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Websherpa

Websherpa

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May 6, 2016
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Ontario / Canada
Pool Size
66000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I just wanted to check in with those in the know before I replace my Intellichlor IC20 (Installed Spring 2016, Manufactured 11/12/2015. Rev: 3050) - worked great until now, maybe a little less effective towards end of last season and beginning of this was working in May, beginning of June and petering out. Needed only minimal acid cleaning once or twice in same period, low calcium buildup. I made certain all the electrical contacts to the transformer were clean.

Unfortunately I don't have an experienced pool installer any more, so mostly DIY (with great success, I have an engineering/chemistry/computer background). And local pool stores are not really booking anyone new for months.

SO... I am not certain if I should simply replace it, or try anything else to get it working. / diagnosed?

If replacing it should I buy another IC20, or skip up to an IC40? Overall I am pleased with the Pentair system so far.

Thank you in advance for your advice / opinions!!

TEST RESULTS

Running
I get the Green CELL led flashing and no chlorination.
Pool balanced, salt about 3500ppm, temp 80F

Diagnostic
"Low" Salt led lit RED
"Cell" Status led lit GREEN
(Others unlit)
Shows 60% usage
Temp Status = 80 (i.e. correct)
 
(Also, if the only answer is to simply replace it, should I go Pentair Intellichlor again, or save some money with Aqua Coastal ProSalt?)
 
With a Red Salt light, I assume a Green Flow light, and Green (constant) Cell light, you likely only need a new flow switch. The Thermistor in it has likely failed. EDIT - you say the cell is telling you a correct temperature? That is odd to have this set of lights with a correct temperature.

With your volume pool, I would get an IC40 if you replace the cell. In your climate, you can get away with an IC20, but have to run it more each day.
 
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Web,

If you have a low salt light, first thing you need to know is the "actual" salt level of your pool water.

If low, I'd bring it up to 3600 or so and see if the cell light quits flashing.

Based upon the age of the cell and the fact that the cell light is flashing, it is a pretty good bet the cell is gone or at least almost gone.

I'd be looking at getting a new one. We always recommend a cell that is at least 2X the volume of your pool, so yes, an IC40 would be better.

Your old cell lasted about 7 years.. You really think you are going to get any better than that with a cheap replacement???

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thanks Mknauss, of course I post first and then start reading the Wiki second, and realize it says that faulty flow switch/thermistor will default to 77F ... so hence me thinking it's reading temp correct probably.
I haven't looked to see how easy a replacement part it is to find / install. I guess that is my next challenge. The IC40 will have to wait if I can fix my IC20 (but you are right, I generally have to shock / supplement the chlorinator now and then, particularly in long stretches of hot sunny weather like we are having now... even with correct Cyan).
 
I did not catch you said the Cell light is flashing -- I saw you said it was on constant at the end of your post. As Jim said, if the Cell light is flashing, that is nearly always a dead cell.
 
mknauss said:
I did not catch you said the Cell light is flashing -- I saw you said it was on constant at the end of your post. As Jim said, if the Cell light is flashing, that is nearly always a dead cell.
Click to expand...
Cell Light flashing while operating, solid in diagnostic. Please confirm, replacing the temp/flow switch would be way cheaper and easier to find! lol
 
With the cell light flashing while operating, that is typically the sign of death.

First get a salinity test of your pool water.
 
Web,

I have never seen a bad flow switch cause the cell light to flash. But, it can't hurt if you want to try it.

Don't get too excited if it works at first.. Rebooting the system will often turn off the flashing Cell light for a period of time.

Jim R.
 
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I posted the Salinity test for the pool 3500 ppm (first thing I triple checked, lol). ;)

I'll assume death then. IC40's appear to be out of stock up here right now. Sigh.
 
We could not tell if that salinity was from a test kit. So if so, as Jim says, you can try the flow switch, but not likely the issue.
 
@mknauss and @Jimrahbe Will the same power supply work for both the IC20 and IC40, or do I need another one as well (i.e. the entire install kit and not just the new cell). It's manual seems model specific... now where is that part number... hmmm... back out into the dark with my phone light I go....
 
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