Pentair IC40 Issues - ICHLOR 30

[dd564]

I had our pool installed in September 2016. Got a new SWG IC40.
Use it last year and it seemed fine, no issues. My flow would be sufficient at 2100-2200 RPM on my pump.

This year, my IC40 has been flakey. Flow is seldom high enough. Have raised it to 2600 and 3,000 RPM on the pump just to try to get the light to switch to green for flow, and no luck.

Called pentair, they forwarded to our local pool builder. Local pool builder didn't reply for a couple days so I called them back. He calls me.
First words out of his mouth were "Did Pentair tell you that it will be a billable visit if we find anything wrong whatsoever with the installation, placement, etc."

Essentially, he outlined that since they didn't build our pool, I was going to get billed because they would find something that wasn't right with the way my other pool builder built the pool. AND they weren't going to get out to my place for at least 2-3 weeks. (That's essentially a third of a Minnesota summer).

So reading online, I went ahead and ordered a new flow meter for $60. Installed it myself, and only issue is, I'm still having the same problem.

Flow light almost never goes on, even at highest speeds. Then every once in a while, it might turn green, only for it to go off a few minutes later.

Today I put in an order for a Ichlor 30 hoping I'll have better luck, but this unit seems really flakey to me.
Since then i've been manually adding bleach checking water every two days.

Anyone else have any suggestions? I'll replace it, but would like it as at worst case as a backup if there's a chance for it to function correctly since I now have two probably good flowmeters.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Cancel the iChlor order.

Did you check the flow switch? Did you remove the cell and look at it? The flow switch tends to fail (it also has a thermistor built into it for the cell to check temperature with). The flow switch replacement part is $100 on Amazon and if you can install a flow meter, you can do the flow switch repair.

 

[dd564]

Cancel the iChlor order.

Did you check the flow switch? Did you remove the cell and look at it? The flow switch tends to fail (it also has a thermistor built into it for the cell to check temperature with). The flow switch replacement part is $100 on Amazon and if you can install a flow meter, you can do the flow switch repair.

Hi,
I changed out the flow switch / flow meter on the IC40 and same results.
Unless you are talking about something else.

- - - Updated - - -

I changed out this part:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079G8NQDF/ref=asc_df_B079G8NQDF5502515/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B079G8NQDF&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241973227623&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11315874968404699904&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019633&hvtargid=pla-413601452534

 

[JoyfulNoise]

It’s a flow switch, not a meter. I was confused and though you had actually installed a flow meter on your plumbing.

Are you sure you’re getting enough flow through the cell? The Pentair cell’s require about 15-20 GPM to activate that switch.

What kind of filter do you have? When was it last cleansed? Do you feel a good flow rate of water out of your returns? Can you post a picture of your plumbing? Is the SWG the last component in the line before water returns to the pool? There’s no bypass in the plumbing diverting water away from the SWG?

 

[dd564]

It’s a flow switch, not a meter. I was confused and though you had actually installed a flow meter on your plumbing.

Are you sure you’re getting enough flow through the cell? The Pentair cell’s require about 15-20 GPM to activate that switch.

What kind of filter do you have? When was it last cleansed? Do you feel a good flow rate of water out of your returns? Can you post a picture of your plumbing? Is the SWG the last component in the line before water returns to the pool? There’s no bypass in the plumbing diverting water away from the SWG?

My heater needs 25 GPM to function.
My IC40 needs similar.

Last year I did a live GPM test by running PVC up from my return into a 5 gallon bucket and did a stop watch on various Variable speeds with my VS Pump.

2000 = 25 GPM
2200 = 30 GPM
2500 = 39 GPM
2700 = 45 GPM
3000 = 60 GPM
3200 = 67 GPM

Last year I consistently ran my SWG at 2200-2300 and never had flow issue.
My heater still kicks on at those speeds, but my SWG does not.
Today I put it up to 3,000 and water is roaring out of my returns, and at that speed the flow light might click on for a bit, but if I lower it to 2900, it turns red instantly.
Then if I re-raise it to 3,000 it may not come back on at all.

By the looks of my returns, I'm highly confident there isn't a restriction.

I have a sand filter and backwashed recently. The pressure is usually around 12 PSI and I backwash at 20 PSI which isn't that frequent because we have an autocover and clean it by hand religiously to fish out any large items before they even get to the filter / skimmers.

My thought it there has to be something wrong after the flow switch since both have yielded similar results.
I tested both flow switches by pushing the switch so the contact points are connected, and the flow light stays red which it shouldn't do, so again, I think it goes back to the cell being flaky.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Certainly sounds like something went bad in the IC40 electronics. Is the unit still under warranty? Did you give Pentair all of this information? I know the PB is threatening to charge you for the call but if the unit is under warranty then Pentair should be covering all this. Do you have a home warranty company you can deal with? They can send a pool service guy out cheaper than a PB. All you need to do is have a “professional” document that the unit is bad and if it’s still under warranty, then Pentair should replace it. Even a pool store service tech could make that official diagnosis.

Dumb question but I have to ask - did you install the new flow switch with the arrow pointing the right way (with the direction of flow) and is the cell installed the correct way? I know, it’s obvious, but you’d be surprised.....

 

[dd564]

Certainly sounds like something went bad in the IC40 electronics. Is the unit still under warranty? Did you give Pentair all of this information? I know the PB is threatening to charge you for the call but if the unit is under warranty then Pentair should be covering all this. Do you have a home warranty company you can deal with? They can send a pool service guy out cheaper than a PB. All you need to do is have a “professional” document that the unit is bad and if it’s still under warranty, then Pentair should replace it. Even a pool store service tech could make that official diagnosis.

Dumb question but I have to ask - did you install the new flow switch with the arrow pointing the right way (with the direction of flow) and is the cell installed the correct way? I know, it’s obvious, but you’d be surprised.....

Yeh, flow is setup correctly.

I'll call up Pentair and give them the details again and see what I can do.
PB will say it's not covered because it's installed too close to the heater I'm afraid.

 

[dd564]

The new Ichlor came today. Easy to install which was nice.

Started working fine on the typical RPM as usual.
So something was wrong with the IC40.

I'm thinking I should contact the pool builder or pentair to see if I can send to one of them so they can test and determine the issue.

 

[Floragirl]

The new Ichlor came today. Easy to install which was nice.

Started working fine on the typical RPM as usual.
So something was wrong with the IC40.

I'm thinking I should contact the pool builder or pentair to see if I can send to one of them so they can test and determine the issue.

dd564: How did you choose the iChlor? What are your first impressions of the difference between the 2? I'm trying to decide between the iChlor 15 and the Intellichlor 15 or 20 for a small new pool in a beach vacation rental that sleeps 12-14 people (pool volume 7,200 gallons). I'm also worried they won't be able to install either one 3 feet from the heater outlet, and how that will affect the warranty. Going out with my tape measure now to check it out. They're also insisting it's fine to use dry acid. They unpacked and installed the equipment yesterday, but haven't ordered the swg yet. The pb doesn't like swg's and only 10% of his builds have them, so I'm nervous. He has only installed the Intellichlor thus far. So if I go ahead with the iChlor, this will be the first one he installs.

 

[yangcha1]

Hi,
I changed out the flow switch / flow meter on the IC40 and same results.
Unless you are talking about something else.

- - - Updated - - -

I changed out this part:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079G8NQD...t=&hvlocphy=9019633&hvtargid=pla-413601452534

Just be curious, why did you buy this fake flow switch instead of the original one: Amazon.com: Pentair 520736 Flow Switch Replacement Kit Pool/Spa Sanitizer and Automation Control Systems: Garden Outdoor

I have an IC40 which works great. Last one lasts more than 10 years until it keeps blowing the fuse about 3 years ago, then I realized that I need to replace it. The new IC40 works as well.

 

[mknauss]

I'm also worried they won't be able to install either one 3 feet from the heater outlet, and how that will affect the warranty.

??? Were did a requirement of 3' between the heater outlet and a SWCG be required? The SWCG creates a tiny increase in FC of the water flowing through it. There is no need to have a check valve or any significant distance between the heater outlet and SWCG.

 

[Floragirl]

??? Were did a requirement of 3' between the heater outlet and a SWCG be required? The SWCG creates a tiny increase in FC of the water flowing through it. There is no need to have a check valve or any significant distance between the heater outlet and SWCG.

It comes straight out of the Pentair Installation Instructions on the Pentair website for both the Intellichlor and the iChlor SWG's.

 

[mknauss]

So it is - that is new since I installed mine. I know you want 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch, but I am scratching my head as to why they would require that? I understand it with a trichlor chlorinator thing, but a SWCG does not create high acid/chlorine water.

Thank you for the response.

 

[pooldv]

Mine doesnt have any of that. It is less than 2 feet from the heater and has no straight pipe in front of it. It is still working great starting its 7th summer. Pics in my pool thread, link in sig.

 

[Michelle W]

Can you put chlorine tabs in pool while I wait on filter switch to be delivered?

 

[mknauss]

Can you put chlorine tabs in pool while I wait on filter switch to be delivered?

Best to use liquid chlorine.

 

[CaptainUnderpants]

I now have to replace my second IC40 flow switch within 2 years.

History: Pool Built in 2016. In 2017 I had to replace the flow switch on the original IC40. I chose this aftermarket one which is worked fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011DDHHPS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At the same time I was repairing my original IC40, I bought a second new IC40, just in case the flow switch repair didn't work. For the last year I have been using the new IC40 and the flow switch just now, one year later, has started to act up. I put in the old / original IC40 with the replaced aftermarket flow switch and all is working again. The flow switch on the Pentair IC40 seems to be the least reliable part of the IC40.

While, my little experiment does not statistically prove anything, 2 failures on new products both withing the first year isn't great.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

The flow switch, with integrated temp sensor, is definitely the Achilles heel of the design. My flow switch is fine but the thermistor is starting to go bad. My unit is older (5 seasons) so having the thermistor go is not totally unexpected. At least the problem is easily identified and the part is “field replaceable”, albeit a bit expensive. The actual replacement part really doesn’t cost $100....it’s probably half that or better from the manufacturer of it. Problem is, like all pool equipment makers, mark-ups are heavy.